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Located where??????//

What is the difference and part numbers to the Stage VI heads? It is a shame there a bit pricey.

Don't worry, you sounded just like an *** in a hole. Thanks for helping D/D with a minor issue while he's recovering from surgery and a lack of bucks. Your such a great help and a PILL to the fourm.:violent1: D/D, Trailbeast has it right, just try it. I have found that combo a pain to deal...

How about some shots of the ports and maybe flow spec's?

Nice!

Baha ha ha h (With ya) indeed, nice car. Many here love all American muscle.

I'm givin you a thanks for a bad *** post and answer! you da man!

:prayer::blob::burnout::notworth::toothy8::happy2::la::la::la::la::la::la: :tongue3: :heart: :supz: :supz: :supz: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Can I get a A-MEN brothers!!!!!!!!

Over tightening the center two bolts on the header? Well, bad news, it's close to impossible (At least IMO that is) to straighten them out with heat and a hammer. Also, you belt sanded/ground down the header flange? Big mistake since the raised welded rae is designed to press into the gasket...

It wouldn't run @ 180* out.

The thing about the net is you never know who is who or what they know.

Easy enuff to remember, 18436572, #1 cylinder, drivers front of the engine. In most Chilton books I'd imagine. Sounds like teething problems with first starting up anything. You'll just need to tinker with it more. The smoke through the carb can be normal until you sort things out. Twist the...

Two good points, though IDK if a cast crank will spin faster or is lighter than the forged unit, but lighter is translated into faster rev's. Vale control is another aspect. Valve springs are a big deal with RPM. of course, your other point,MONEY, controls everything going into the build. Ya...

I'm tellin ya bro, that is a real nice car. I wish I could get across country and drive it home. Keep it, play with it, enjoy it.

Agreed. Better rods beat reconditioned rods in price, weight and strength.

That's the way I see it, not to mention it'll probably save my big toe from getting stubbed real bad if it is not out of the way real good.

Ditto Ditto again. Store them standing up if there a used item in the corner away from everything including my big feet. First person ever to say it happened to them. Damn Chevy cranks. LOL I honestly don't see it happening since there stored like this when there new and the part can just...

Ahhhhh, sorry, just re-read no stroker. Sorry. OK, so, a 383 it is! Well lets see, a lighter rod is a good start and it'll be stronger to boot. That is a plus. Better higher comp. slugs are next. Which ones to use?! Which ones to use?!?!?! I guess, really, from here, what we would all need to...

yea yea ya, X's 2 !!!!!

Ba ha ha ha ha ha ha Did ya try the "HELP" section at the AP store?

I love IQ's post, how true. Moperlover has a great idea as well. Cheaply doing a 383? Would a stroker kit be out for it would be a big jump in cubes. Otherwise, I kinda like what they say.

WHOA! It's been a while since I used them and now there s a few designs to therm. I have always used the standard units.AKA Cheaper ones. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Make/PLYMOUTH/Engine-Size/5-2L-318/?keyword=Rhoads

I've only used the Rhoads lifters and for many years and times over. These lifters tick and loudly. They will do all they advertise. Check the lifters as they come out and see if 1 or more have any play in it at anytime.

I'd do it in a snap of a finger.

Freak alert; Someone take away his and my post into cyber space.

Thanks IQ, awesome dude, thanks! The numbers look like they would support a fairly healthy engine up to 400. Kind of reminds me of about what a average porting on a W2 could do...ya know, without really pushing the W2. IDK about a 440 though. Humm, i guess it would depend on whats going on.

Well said. I have to agree 100% with that.

Most here start with the KB-107 or a Federal Mougal CP116 Hyper-U's pistons to up the slugs height. Then decking the block is a small amount. Finish up with calculations of the heads chambers and gasket dimensions.

I agree that taking a "Race car" back to a street friendly status is a big chore and probably on the level of not worth the effort. The one you listed is really nice and it could be done easy enuff. The interior and such is easy. It's just money spent on line or in a catalog. Installing gauges...

EGR? na, I think 1 of 2 things when I see that on a header. exhaust gas temp (EGT) or air fuel ratio readers.