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I believe this is all for a ‘66 and earlier A body car. Single pot master cylinder that looks like it was never used, completely clean inside. A line with what I’m told has a distribution block, a proportioning valve and a residual valve attached. $20 plus the ride. Located in south central...

Came out of a ‘68 Barracuda drum /drum car. Worked as designed when removed. Went to discs on the front. Located in south central WA state, about 20 miles south of Yakima. $20 plus the ride.

New from early 2000’s. Drum/drum master cylinder from NAPA (remanufactured). Complete with rubber boot, brake rod retainer rubber thingy and bleeding plugs and instructions. $30 plus the ride. Located in south central WA state, about 20 miles south of Yakima.

These parts came off my drum/drum ‘68 Barracuda which was converted to front discs. 10” brakes, shoes measure 2.25” wide. Spindles, hubs, bearings and backing plates are all in great shape. Drums should be turned, wheel cylinders were working fine and not leaking. They’re marked as made in USA...

‘68 Barracuda. Converting to front discs. Hard to find a good picture of the line/bracket for the fluid supply to the caliper (service manual calls it a “jumper tube”). This is the left side caliper with the line and bracket mounted the only way that makes sense to me. Wanted to make sure...

I need to replace a short section of the rear brake line. But first I need to remove the factory spring armor so I can cut the line and have room for the flare nut. Any tips for doing this? A pair of dikes or flush cuts and carefully try to snip one coil without damaging the line? This...

Thanks! Dadsbee didn’t bother to really read my OP or he would have noticed I already pulled the original MC and bought a new one. His post wasn’t really helpful. Only his opinion - which I respect. Everyone has one. If I’m sure my drill and tap will be accurate, I may just do that! Thanks.

Oops, sorry guys, violated first rule of help requests! ‘68 Barracuda. I’ll edit my OP. There was no spring but there was a dust boot. I had a brand new in box early 90’s NAPA remanufactured drum/drum master identical to the one I just pulled that came with a new boot AND the little rod...

‘68 Barracuda. Pulled the factory drum/drum MC to replace it with a new drum/disc unit for my front disc conversion. The forum recommends the Raybestos MC36406 as this a non power assist swap and this MC has the desired 15/16” bore. (This thing is huge compared to the original!) However, the...

Gotcha. I was told the violent hammer way was less prone to damage the rubber boot. I’m not replacing the upper bj since it’s in good shape, so that’s important, but so’s my dick. I do have a bj tool, so I guess I’ll use it on both bjs. Never messed with the torsion bars. Hope the adjusters...

Yep, have all new US made parts for this swap. New lower ball joints are Rare Parts brand-made in the late 90’s. So, T bars backed off, upper bj separated before lower bj - or does the order matter? Hoping to do the “smack the upper with a hammer” separation maneuver. Will that work with no...

Need to remove drum spindle so I can install a disc spindle. 1968 Barracuda. OEM drums all the way around. Car is up on stands. Rubber brake hose removed from metal line. Is this the correct order? 1. Separate tie-rod 2. Separate upper ball joint 3.Separate lower ball joint Do I need a jack...

Thanks guys. I’ve got a 20 ton HF press. So press it is.

Got two mint KH SBP hubs and a set of mid 90’s new USA made rotors to assemble with new lugs (Dorman 610-130). Not sure of best procedure to do this. Should I use a press to push them in one at a time through both components simultaneously or use a hammer and punch? Already got new races in and...

Yeah I get that. I don’t want to destroy the lug or remove it from the hub. I only want to separate the drum from the hub while leaving the studs intact.

Car is a ‘68. Has 7/16” lugs. Wouldn’t a 5/8” hole saw (meant for 1/2” lugs) be oversized? Would I be better off using a 9/16” hole saw?

Pretty sure my 10” front drums (‘68 Barrucuda) are out of round, so I’ve been wanting to replace them. Rock Auto currently has drums in stock. All the LH lugs on my car were already changed to RH lugs when I got it, but the drums are still firmly attached to both front hubs. I’m not sure if...

OK, here’s a better pic. I’ve cleaned the area up some. That’s a quarter for size comparison. It may have started life as a much smaller hole, but I think it did rot out to its present size. Like I said in the OP, the metal around the edge of the hole is pretty thin and you can see a lot of...

‘68 fastback barracuda. Doing some cleanup in the engine bay when I was reacquainted with this hole in the fender right under the battery tray. Forgot it was there many years ago. There was clearly some rust damage right around it and the metal right next to it is kinda thin. Is there supposed...

So I was being proactive and while the 318 in my 68 Barracuda was warming up, I stuck a voltmeter on the battery terminals. I was showing 15.06 - 15.13 volts. Pretty sure that’s too high. Shouldn’t it be more like 14.2 volts? I don’t want to cook a battery - they’re getting pretty spendy...

Excellent! Thanks!

I’m looking for 245/60/14’s for the rear. Cooper only goes up to 235. Wonder how much of a difference that is? Really like the 245’s on there now. Sucks that they need replacing since they’re like still 60%.

Oh, thanks guys!

Yikes! Been driving on these for for about 11 years. Don’t drive em hard and only about 3k a year. Even so, they’re on a decent 68 Barracuda. And my wife rides with me a lot. Gotta get new skins. Who besides BFG makes 14” tires anymore? Looks like both Cooper and Dunlop quit making em. Like...

Thanks, but it doesn’t look like what’s on the tire in the pic. That’s my problem. There’s a a 4 circled all by itself then a 2 circled by itself then an 02 circled. All I can figure is 42nd week of 2002. ???

Trying to locate the date code on some tires. Nothing seems to match the pictures I’ve found. Here are two pics of the only possibilities I can find. Either these tires are from 1994 or 2002 - I think. Anybody confirm or deny? Thanks.

Man you’re up late or really early! Yeah I thought they were manufactured as part of the caliper too. Bummer———Until——— I saw hemi71x’s post below yours. That master rebuild kit INCLUDES the retainers. Wonder how they’re installed. Gotta be a press fit. Maybe drive em on like a bearing seal?

Sorry, still confused. Do you mean replace the rings or the calipers? Do new dust seals/boots come with new rings?

Thought they mighta been pressed on somehow. So these calipers are cores only?

Will the 65-66 calipers bolt on, work the same on 67-69 A bodies? I ”think” all I need to rebuild them is the bore seals, dust boots and possibly pistons. The crossover and supply lines look like they’d be ok. Back to one of my original questions, that ring that holds the dust seal that came...