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Try this one https://www.musclecarparts.cc/shop/item.aspx/1968-1971-mopar-a-b-e-body-with-2-lamp-system-headlamp-adjustment-set/7004/?gad_source=1

Here’s the hardware you need to mount the buckets https://www.musclecarparts.cc/shop/item.aspx/1968-1971-dodge-and-plymouth-b-body-4-headlight-adjuster-spring-kit/8069/?gad_source=1 oh wait a sec them are for 4 headlamp systems

I’ve had this one for about 5 years so far it’s been good. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80077/10002/-1

alright someone photoshop this I have to see it now:lol:

I’m a 30 year electrician if that makes a hill of beans. But I would clean the remaining tabs and make up new ones made exactly like the originals and solder them on top. I would not recommend you to drill the rivets because you will lose the clamping force on the connection.

I would have told him yes the instant he said $400

Check the hose at the tank for leaks as stated above if that don’t cure it your probably gonna need to check the sending unit pickup tube if it’s the original. There’s a chance there could be a pin hole rusted in it an easy way to check that is filler up and see if the air disappears.

Yep as stated above 67’ only tail lamps.

If your only doing an intake get some gasket remover some brands of it still have the good stuff in them. https://www.appliedthermalfluids.com/product/loctite-sf-790-gasket-remover-known-as-loctite-chisel-paint-strippe-79040/

I have no experience with this but have watched a few videos seems like it will work https://coopersstripclub.com/metal-lpp1/

Nope only a heat crossover and that gap around the port goes nowhere

10.72 @ 123.867

second pic is 72 first pic looks like a 72 as well but can see it to good

I use a single hole paper punch

Reuse your original sliders the new ones are know to cause the tight fit that some have an issue with

I think your best bet is with @hemi71x he may can help you out with the correct bolts. I may have the bolts I will check but no guarantees I do have a few sets of 73 up spindles laying around so maybe.

To me it looks like the bolt is too long and the nylock nut which isn’t factory it is too tall

Here’s the chart

What diameter tires?

Thanks and Merry Christmas to everyone!

hit the side of the female taper of the center link where the tie rod taper goes a couple of good solid blows will pop it right out. You may need to put a second hammer on the opposite side to make a solid blow on it.

Go modern and trash that old stuff

Thanks Steve I’m a big block guy so I’m kinda dumb when it comes to small block numbers.

Not on the pan rail on a small block they are on the front of the block just below the left head

Does the passenger side front fender have an antenna hole and or a delete plug? If not someone has patched up the hole I think all the fenders came with the antenna hole in them unless maybe it was radio delete when ordered. Hold on I did a little digging it may just be a factory rear mounted...

My Dad owned a 65’ 4 door valiant with a 273 auto. Now that I think back it was a 4 speed it’s been a minute

Send them my way I’ll read them

https://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=101-ABK795

The boot flange goes under the carpet and trim ring on top of carpet. Trim the carpet to the shifter hole so it fits Around the boot.you can make a couple of cuts just bit less than the width of the trim ring to allow the boot to be screwed down to the sheetmetal. You can use a soldering iron to...

Here you go https://www.laysons.com/Catalog.cfm?nCatID=2916&nModelID=3&nModelYear=1967