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that apears to be an aftermarket main bolt, try a stock one

sometimes the distributor cap gets corrosion between the terminals and will cause kickback, worth taking off and cleaning terminals

I think the lower ball joints are the same size, either you have the big joint uppers or someone has done some machine work in the past.

once you get it running like you want, a vacuum advance may be a good thing on the street...

been runing one for several years , works great , hot spark, rev limiter works great.

when tuning a performance engine, tune ignition first and then tune your carburetor. 4secondsflat has a website and offers a tuning book that is really easy to read and will teach you what to look for in a print medium. In the old days (1960's) a speed shop would use a distributor machine and...

depends on what you want to achieve. look around at some of the members set*ups and decide what you want before you buy parts, new or used

if you look at some of the manufacturers websites , they supply an L bracket that mounts to the shock bolt.

could also be an axle bearing.

You can use use wheel weights and hose clamps on driveshaft if need be.

Assuming not positraction, Jack up rear axle and block one wheel...put in gear, slowly increase speed to see if vibration occurs and repeat for other wheel. If posi, remove one wheel ,install lug nuts and repeat procedure to rule out tire problem.

does it vibrate in neutral when you rev the motor at a steady 2000 to 2500 rpm?

LA headers with a small amount of massaging and remflex gaskets will work, have been using this set up for 4 years and no leaks

I bought a heartthrob 2.5 inch mandrel bent kit and are very pleased with the fit and finish, has held up about 10 years...

I am by no means an authority on this subject but, our cars have some weaknesses in the electrical system... especially at the firewall connector, examine this point for corrosion and heat damage, the amp gauge is often by passed and there are articles showing how to do this...the instrument...

probably need about 370 rwh , a 3.91 gear and overdrive transmission with a 27 inch tall rear tire. Will take some time to tune ignition and carb to get drivability and mileage where you want it

sounds like it would be worth a try to loosen the valves a little

do you have another carb to try on the motor?

try 20 to 22 degrees initial, then connect your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and using your vacuum guage, adjust the idle mixture to the most rpm or highest vacuum...

talk to mike at MRL , probably the EQ la type head, should be a bolt on and flow much better than stock , not to mention the great design of the combustion chamber.

There are numerous options here, research your options before using anything...

just for the heck of it, make sure you are getting plenty of fuel to the carb....rubber hose at tank is not pinched also

I wouldn't think the cnc machine took out a little too much in the runners ???

I bought them about 10 years ago and used them up until last year,, from the posts I read now they must have been re-calibrated...mine were very stiff and still had wheel hop....

You might benefit from some of the DEI or other brand of fuel line insulation in the entire engine compartment, from carb all the way around to the area of the firewall.

put the everything back together and put the drums back on...the shoes will equalize when they have something to push against...

once you get the electrical figured out...sounds like your carbs are leaking gas into the manifold, I may be wrong but, weber carbs may like less fuel pressure than the factory setup....

just for the heck of it, spray some carb cleaner on all the air bleeds

I think I've read it should be as close to the collector as possible and at a horizontal or above position in the pipe...

I have the Dynomax welded stainless straight through mufflers and an H pipe on mine and they don't drone but are loud at 2700 or above. If I had it to do over would go with magnaflow...