Search results for query: *

It's probably just misfiring - I don't have a good ear for this car or American V8s in general yet (used to aircooled 4cylinders and Italian stuff...) but I don't hear anything that sounds like pinging. By "unplugged" I mean I remove the vacuum line from the carb and cap off the carb. I tried...

I've got it richened up quite a lot right now - 3 steps richer for cruise, and two stips richer on power (according to the edelbrock chart for me carb). I also have an AFR gauge. AFR with the vacuum advance unplugged at cruise and idle is really rich - 11.5-12, down to 9-10 at WOT. With the...

So, I tried backing the initial timing all the way off to 0* TDC. It's a little bit better, but I'm still getting a lot of hesitation and stuttering that I didn't get with the vacuum advanced unplugged (this, mind you, is on 93 octane gas). Especially just off-idle My engine is far from a...

I've gone ahead and done the scientific thing - here's a graph of the advance with the vacuum unplugged, and put on ported. The advance numbers (vertical line) are the timing minus my initial timing (11* right now, which still seems to be too much for it with the vacuum advance plugged in)...

That's what I've noticed - with the VA off and capped, it drives just fine. Plugged in, and it won't cruise without popping and stumbling.

I'll double check - it's on the passenger's side port on the Edelbrock, which *should* be ported according to the manual. My engine does make a lot of vacuum, though. 15-20" at idle.

Hey everyone. I've got a weird distributor issue that took me way too long to diagnose (since I kept thinking it was fuel - classic mistake...) This is a recently rebuilt 318 original to my '69 Barracuda. Pretty much stock except for dual exhaust and 4 barrel intake/carb. My (probably...

I'm using conventional 80w-90 gear oil with a bottle of Motorcraft friction modifier.

Clutch type. And, to clarify, the drag going straight seems to be gone - that turned out to be the brakes being adjusted too tight. Some of the remaining "drag" I was feeling is that the rear end stutters really badly if the car is turning even the slightest bit, and binds up the inside wheel...

So, both the shop and some testing on my old rear end would indicate that the rotational play is normal. That said, I took it on a longer (as in around the block outside my driveway) drive and something has got to be wrong. I found a big parking lot and did a dozen low-speed figure-8s. Each...

So, the wheels will turn free enough now - I can spin them with my hand and they'll drag to a stop but not stop immediately. My only worry now is the play. I can rotate the wheel back and forth about 5 degrees, and when rotating it back and forth to the beginning and end of the "dead zone"...

So, I got the car off the ground and the wheels off. I was able to remove the wheels with the car fully off the ground - in other words, it took at least 70ft/lbs of torque to get the wheels to even spin. Removed both brake shoes and the driveshaft. I think a good part - possibly all - of it...

Hey guys, just wanted to make sure nothing is screwed up before I go any further. I just finished an 8.75 sure-grip swap in my '69 Barracuda. The transmission ship rebuild the center section for me and they tend to do good work. I've finished putting everything together (including axles with...

I've got my quarter windows rebuilt and reinstalled on my '69 Notch (what a nightmare) but I'm having trouble adjusting them. Does anyone have any photos of good-fitting quarter windows, and how the rest against the roof rail gasket and the door?

Hi everyone. I've got a very mild 318 (~8.7CR with essentially a 340 cam, edelbrock performer manifold and carb) and I'm my stock '69 2bbl air cleaner that's had the base adapted to the 4bbl carb. This is a single snorkel intake, and I'm wondering if it's going to be too much of a restriction on...

Hi everyone. Found out today my rear seat is actually from a '72 Duster (after blasting and powdercoating the frame, of course). I need the rear seat frame that will fit my '69 Barracuda Notchback. Condition doesn't matter since they'll be blasted, powdercoated, and reupholstered. I have a...

Hi everyone. I've got a '69 Barracuda notch and I'm finishing the interior restoration. At some point in the past, a lot of the interior was replaced with stuff from a '72 Duster (center console, 3 out of 4 door panels, and the rear seat). We only noticed the rear seat was wrong because my...

Hmm, they do look slightly different in that mine has an extra hole on the piece where you're pointing. My driver's side looks to be the same way, though, and it's using the Z bar, so I'm guessing it will work? Edit: upon closer look there seem to be some slight differences in the bar next to...

Here's my driver's side door. From what I can tell, this is correct for a '69 door. My latch also looks like the '69 example in the thread you posted.

Looks like the doors are the same, although at some point a long time ago someone swapped a lot of the interior for '72 Duster stuff (door panels and center console) so it wouldn't have surprised me. Here's the latch - I'm probably going to give it a chem-dip bath if there's nothing in there...

Hi everyone. I was taking about the window regulators on my '69 Barracuda. While they were out, I've been replacing the lock cylinders too. The passenger's side was easy, but I couldn't get the driver's side to sit flush - it's like the handle mechanism was blocking it. To make a long story...

I have a 742-case sure-grip 8.75 rear end from a '69 Dart. Assuming everything is original (yeah, yeah, I know...) would it have had 1.8" or 2.0" bearing journals?

It seems that the voltage regulator on my fuel gauge died and sent 12 volts to my fuel, oil pressure, and temp gauges, frying all of them. Looking for a fuel, temp, and oil pressure gauge for my '69 Barracuda that is un-fried.

Well I don't want to butcher any rare parts that someone else could use, that's for sure. I'll see what the largest diameter pre-70 2 groove I can find is. My math tells me that the cast iron pulley (156mm) I bought will give my WP (145mm) a 7.8% overdrive, while my original (187mm) was about a...

Is 6-5/8 the diameter of the inner (water pump driving) pulley (on the 2-groove)?

Something just occurred to me while looking at my pulley. It appears to be the outer groove that's rubber mounted. I don't need this groove anymore since my AC bracket has the compressor and PS pump sharing the second groove. I'd like to keep the larger diameter inner groove to drive my water...

Interesting, so no alignment issues with using the March 3 groove? Is there pulley listed for '69 and earlier or '70 and later engines?

So I thought I'd share an update on what is becoming the most annoying saga... As it turns out, I do not need a 3v pulley. My Sanden compressor bracket for the peanut compressor retrofit changes the belt layout to two belts: Crank->AC->PS and Crank->Alt->WP. My 3 groove pulley lines up...

So the earlier pulleys have an extra groove? Mine has three grooves on the crank pulley, which I thought was the same number as the later cars.

I might just order one of these pulleys to see if it fits. In my reading about the swap from the early to late water pump on small blocks, I only ever see mention of changing the pump, radiator, hoses, and (if you want to be able to see your timing marks) the timing cover and balancer. If...