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Thanks a lot BJR Racing! Maybe I just saw that one number wrong; 8 = 6.

I'm trying to ID my cylinder heads, that sit on my 318 ('74 Valiant). Changed my valve covers and found these numbers: 2843675 left (driver's) side head 4027183 right side Anyone? :read2:

TinyValiant74, very nice car! Here's mine '74 Valiant, it's original 318 car (4bbl 600 Carter, double exhaust from manifolds), TF904 + 8 1/4. Sweet car to cruise with and has some sleeper spirit in it.

I use Champion for my '74 Valiant 318cid, stock elect. ignition. No problems, no need to change.

What kind of 360, stock (~200 hp)? It depends...if the radiator you have now in your car is in good condition, it should keep her cool. If it's old and tired, I'd get a new one, or have it recored. Get a good temp gauge anyway.

Very nice Duster! Rallye wheels are THE choice, love that stock look. I'm using stock exh.manifolds with dual pipes in my '74 Valiant too. Good setup for mild 318.

This could be the easiest one to start with, flasher unit is cheap. There should be 2 wires going to the flasher unit. You can test your turn signal circuit by connecting these two wires --> if signals go on when these wires are connected, your turn signal switch should be ok --> replace the...

Same problem here...Did you find yours?

I had similar problems with my 318 Valiant last winter. It stalled and missed heavily when it was cold, but ran just fine after warm up. I found out that my old ECU was bad: changed to a new one and it solved the problem. It is also possible that ground contact between the ECU and frame is bad...

Sounds amazing, oil getting into tailpipes. My Valiant had a little bit same kind of problem when I bought her. Previous owner had plugged the other valve cover with oil cap, the other cover had PCV with old cracked grommet. Because of this he had driven the car with low oil level (just below...

My Valiant's original temp gauge wasnt working when I bought her. The fact that I don't know my engine temp made me very nervous...Installed autometer temp gauge that gives me accurate info and most important: peace of mind. That small scale of the original gauge is far from accurate.

Clean, mean, machine! Enjoy it! :salute:

Ammeter = amp gauge in your dash. About ammeter and how to bypass is etc: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=9666

I've got power steering in my '74 Valiant. It's nice when parking and manouvering in tight places, you can do it by one hand. BUT it really is way too over assisted for high speed driving - very hard to read the road. Mine is street car, so I'd keep it.

Hmm, you have checked your battery cables and clamps for tight and good connection there? Grounds for battery - block - frame? Do you have the original ammeter? All the power goes through that and if it fails, there is no power at all.

Like you all wrote, the price of good headers is a small investment in this project; actually I've been thinking TTI's but good to hear that there are other options too. dusterdon, yes of course I know those crazy bastar**, Sisua perkele!! :toothy7: 383man, lovely machine, thanks for the...

383man, that BB A-body is just what I'm thinking to aim at:stock looking & fast fast fast! Actually I know one '74 Valiant from Finland with 383 in it, I think they run low 13's with it. :thumbup:

I found this somewhere:

Thanks Caveman and middleagecrisis, good information and great link. Yes, 360 would be a lot easier..I'll check those MP 360 crate engines too, could be cheaper also..Maybe I'll get pass this BB fever! :toothy7:

I'm planning engine swap 318->383 for my '74 Valiant (original V8 car), my current combo is 318cid, TF904, 8 1/4, 2 1/4 duals with stock exh.manifolds, car has front disk brakes. Is there something I should be aware of in this swap project: is it basically drop-in (they never are I know...)...

In Finland we've 2 official languages: Finnish and Swedish. Many people can both of them, like myself. Almost everyone here speaks English too, it's like our "third official language". Actually, my English is waaaay better than my Swedish. In Sweden, the language is Swedish and in Norway they...

Post Scriptum

In Finland emissions are tested (every year) on cars made 1978-->

I'd say 200-210 is still normal when it's really hot outside. Do you have pull or push fan? A fan in front of the radiator (push) restricts the air flow and could cause that.

Hmm, let me think: Spare ballast, volt. regulator, ecu, coil, distr. cap & rotor, set of ignition wires, spark plugs x 8, fuses, connectors, belts...oil, coolant, water..jack, a tool set, tape, fire extinguisher (actually it's under the front seat)...I may be a little paranoid.. :lol:

Welcome! Very nice scamp. Looks a lot like my -74 Valiant.

That's great to hear!! :thumblef: Too many times electrical problems in these old cars are too easy. It is just easiest to start from the obvious.. If you send my beer all the way to Finland tell 'em to keep it cold! :drinkers: Stance

No lights, no power at all? First I'd check battery and battery cables & posts for good connection. Second, check your grounds: battery - engine - body.

Ok I'll check the carb first and keep you posted when there's something new. Thank you!

My new (for me) Valiant gives me hard times....What I know, the engine is stock 318 with Carter AFB (4bbl), and 904 trans. She has been not that sweet running when starting cold but after she warms up there has been no problems...Until yesterday: it is almost impossible to get a smooth run -...