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Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it.:thumbsup:

So I can just order a standard 904 converter?

Here is a picture of the input shaft. How do I tell by looking at it? I never knew that the dakota 6 cylinder and the small block shared the same bolt pattern. What kind of torque converter do I need for this tranny?

The guy I bought the car from said he ordered a 904 from TCI. It still has the TCI sticker on the case. It was bolted to a 340. Should I just scrap it or will it be OK behind a mild 340?

I have a 904 with a serial number of PK4431424. Trying to order a rebuild kit so I need to know what year it is. Don't see that number series on the MyMopar.com site. Anyone know what year this is? Thanks

OK here is the whole story. I bought the car in 2016 after a big flood here. The car had gone under completely. I drained the oil and water from the motor and flushed it with marvel mystery oil a couple of time. I then put fresh oil and pulled the distributor gear and turned the pump with a...

I have no problem getting it balanced. Was just unclear what the statement meant. I also looked for a used factory crank but have been unable to find one. Mopars are pretty scarce around here.

It is a 68.

Tore down an old 340 and the crank is messed up pretty bad. It had already been turned 30 over on the mains and 10 on the rods. I'm going to order a new stock stroke crank from Summit. I will be using the same pistons and rods that were in the motor. This is not going to be a performance build...

I have to wait for the drivetrain to check alignment, right??

Good eye Joe! The cotter pin was indeed falling out. I will check the ride height on both sides when I let the car down. My question is will it be accurate without the drivetrain installed since it sits up so high or do I need to wait for the drivetrain to be back before measuring?

I measured the rims. They are both the same.

I measured the strut rods but they are the same length.

I will try to install the lower brackets and move the fender out the same as the other one and see if that solves the problem. As far as driving goes I only drove it a couple of times before yanking the drivetrain out. Can't really remember if it pulled or not. Just trying to fix a few problems...

This is the only fender braces I have. Should there be another down low?

Thanks for the help guys. My tires are 215/70R 15. I measured from my frame rail to the bottom lip of each fender. The one that's rubbing is about 3/4" closer. I don't know what toe in is or how to measure that.

I have a 68 barracuda with a small block I bought a while back. I noticed the tire rubbing on the right front fender and just assumed the tires were too tall. I started looking at it and put it up on a lift and this is what I see. I don't see any signs of the car ever being wrecked. Could...

Nothing in particular.

Interior has a small crack in center of dash pad and a bad spot on the headliner sail panel as you can see in the pictures. Rest of interior is very nice.

Here are a couple of videos of the car running.

Send me your number and I will text some. Thanks

This car is built with the best of everything. Lots of time and money spent on this build as you can see from the list below. Paint is 2003 Chrysler Tangerine Pearl Orange and looks fantastic. It's not perfect because it has been driven, but it is stiill exremely nice. Car is pretty quick even...

Thanks for everyone's input. I don't guess I need to tack them in after all!

I screwed up and pressed the studs out of my hubs to change my brake drums. Now the new wheel studs are loose. I read here that some people have had to tack weld them back in. The hubs look like cast iron to me. I will need cast rods in order to weld them, right?

Thanks Don.

I could use the rear defrost motor. Mine is locked up.

I need the bucket that the headlight sits in. Let me know if you have one you want to sell. thanks Found one...Thanks everyone!

Thanks for all the input guys.