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Maybe off topic but if there is any chance of over-revving then a aftermarket ignition is a must IMO.

I've used a small chain across the torsion bars to hold up the front of the transmission. Might be able to do the same for the back of the engine. Come to think of it I've used it for the engine too.

4-speed parts package from a 65 Coronet including a very nice set of pedals for power/manual brakes. $600 or OBO plus shipping from Knob Noster MO.

DD9 Header Set, Small Block Chrysler - Sanderson Headers

Mopar Radiators

Same situation as yours except column shift. Changed rag joint out for Flaming River U joint. Ebay 96 Dakota starter. No dents needed. Even used studs for the outside header bolts. Installed with provided instructions.

You might want to think about a break in oil for break in.

I would think a stroked 340 with an xe268 cam would seem small and pump out the torque all the way through the RPMs. Had to do a lot of tuning to get my 318 to run right with that cam with a stock converter. Probably not stroked.

This is what I run on my cars, does great. I especially like the rev limiter, probably saved my engine more than once. https://4secondsflat.com/J685HRRCoilsprings.jpg

HO-68ST PA, 11/16 in. Dia Internal Ring, 0.035 In. Thick Carbon Steel Black Phosphate

I would suggest shims against the hold-downs to keep the rockers from eating into the aluminum. Just mounting and turning the engine produced scratches in my case and I would think it would be the same with the springs pressing the rockers against them. I had the hold-downs machined so I could...

I would run all pulleys/brackets from the same source to avoid problems. BTDT

If you have all the pulleys, brackets, accessories, and timing cover from your 318, I would do that. Just need two piece balancer from 5.9 Magnum. Good luck!

a "Lowly" 440 Dyno

[FOR SALE] - 2x A body 8 3/4 rear ends

Retrofit hydraulic roller lifters for Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler V8 Sold here - Chrysler B & RB V-8 Hydraulic Roller Lifter

I used the Mr Gasket head gaskets (forget the part number) coated steel shim type made for LA engines.

With 20 over replacement pistons, there was a significant weight difference on the 5.9 magnum I did. Just saying.

RPM air-gap is the best dual plane intake for a SBM. Grab it. Can't imagine it could hurt performance even on a bone stock engine.

Engine Masters said plug wire clearance was bad with the TTI shorties.

Please explain this statement.

Had a problem similar to this in 99 Dakota R/T. Turned out to be the plastic plate/sensor under the rotor in the distributor. Sorry, can't remember what it was called. Found it. Cam sensor.

No this is what I'm working with. Didn't want to cut my new under-dash wiring harness to make connections. If I left the plastic piece on the connectors would just fall out. Sorry not A body

I tried these pin-type connectors and found they easily pulled out of the brass connectors after you get them in. I have a custom dash with aftermarket gauges and could not bring myself to cut the new under-dash wiring harness. So I removed the plastic piece, put them together one at a time and...

Gibson Performance Mufflers Just change to these MWA mufflers for the sound you're looking for with no loss in power. Worked for me. 2.5" exhaust. Changed from a sporty kind of sound with strait-through Magnaflow kind of muffler to the muscle car tone I was looking for with MWAs.

Magnumswap.com - Your source for Dodge Magnum and Mopar engine swap tech.

No, they don't, but you can use a car 360 pan on a 5.9 magnum. A 5.9 uses a rear sump oil pan for a truck.

There you go again. Hey, you guys quit chiming in on this FABO forum!

https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjws4aKBhDPARIsAIWH0JWxnpFrsYftszDLG25bP0HMnqzFbpiZ5nGblxMJxE4Bist8E1dFbcUaAtUOEALw_wcB&wickedid=414358555912&wickedsource=google&wv=3.1

I never said that. You are putting words in my mouth. With the KB pistons, for quench, I like them. Period. BTW you know this thread is from 2016? Who are you trying to convince?