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I also thought all John sold was low band apply but like you say it doesn't look like one of his VB?

What valve body is it? Does it have low band apply or not? Thanks

The low one way clutch probably broke if you were still in first when the tires got traction. When the other parts broke it could have pushed the TC into the back of the crank? If your valve body is a full manual and does not have low band apply the rear one way roller is the only thing holding...

That looks like a spiral snap ring but I have not seen one in any of the Mopar transmissions I have done. I have seen them in brand X. Here is a good site to see the exploded view of the a500. I don't see any spiral snap rings in the picture...

Thanks that is helpful info. Thanks for attaching the pictures.

Found my Mopar engine book. Don’t know how much use it will be as it is a 1984 addition. The newest head listed is the stage V head. Guess I need an upgrade book. Lol

Great info. Thanks

I apricate all the comments. I didn't want to make my first post a novel with all my background and my may of doing things I just wanted to see if someone on here could answer some questions about these heads before I start buy/trading for parts. I know I can mock up a valve and measure the...

I know I can use factory size valves in the head. I’m asking at what point valve lift do I need to start modifying parts? I have a set of 906 heads with stainless steel valves that I will use in the stage 6 heads if I can with the cam lift I want.

lol. I don’t think you are being a dick at all. As far as head work experience I have done steel heads in the past. I have my own equipment to do valve seats and valves. I have done port jobs on 906 heads using Mopar templates. I have not done anything in 15 years and just getting back into...

Ok I understand that I could use a longer length valve, if I do that do I need to use a spacer under the rockers? Thanks

Mine are standard port heads. Thanks

Ok I’m in the planning phase for my big block combo and I have been doing research on the stage 6 heads I’m going to use. I have read many articles on these heads and have seen many different builds being done. I have seen guys posts about the engines they are running these heads on including...

So I have been presented with some options and I respect everyone's opinions on here. Option 1: I found a guy on FB, about 3 hours away from me, that has a rotating assembly for a 383, forged crank, old TRW domed pistons, stock rods all balanced and a .030 block that is ready to be assembled...

I have used Don’s formula for Old Reliable before. I stumbled on Don’s book years ago when I was trying to get a Weiand six pack tunnel ram to work on my 63 Fury. Talk about a guy determined to make something work. I never did get the old 6 pack tunnel ram to work better than my TM7 but Don did...

Awesome. I’m over by Jackson. MIS area.

I guess I am getting old I forgot all about the engines book. I don’t think mine is going to be the best reference as I think I bought in back in 92 or 93. I don’t think the stage VI heads were even out get.

Yea I know. Have nhra rules changed much in the last 20 years. lol If I get that far it will not be the way the car is setup now anyway.

My ultimate goal is a 9.99 car. I know I don’t have the budget to do that this year and I’m just getting back into racing. This year I want to build a car that I can afford and can have fun with. I will be happy if I could see low 11’s and would be ecstatic if I got in the 10’s.

Thanks for all the input. The stage 6 heads I have are not the old castings that had many issues but they are not Chapman heads. I will check out the links listed above and I wasn’t aware of the MP tip’s section so I will check that out. The last 383 I built was 30 over with the old TRW domed...

Ok I’m starting to put together my game plan for the engine build for my 72 Duster. I have built 383’s and 440’s in the past and like them both. I’m leaning towards building a 383 and wanted to hear from you guys on what kind of ET’s you have been able to achieve with a similar combo. The car...

I got this intake with a 72 Duster drag car. I was planning on running it but have decided to go with a big single carb. The car has a fiberglass front end with 6 pack scoop and I don’t want to cut it up. The carbs are 660 Holley center squiters have had the choke horns removed and have been...

This was left over from a Hot Rod build years ago that had a 383. The guy wanted a single quad so we switched it out. Kind of rare 2 piece top. $250 OBO + shipping Located in South Central Michigan

I agree shoot more of the car. If you would have done that I would have known it was a car. For some reason I thought it was a Dakota. I do love that you stuck a Mopar in a Ford.

I get that. I figured I would give him one last chance to actually get some help because I did watch a couple of his videos and he really needs the help with the truck……and how to do videos people can actually watch. Lol

No offense intended but your videos are a little hard to watch. My advice less talking head and more shots showing you truck and what it is doing. Plus I couldn’t find the video of the trans problem. Better titles for your videos would also be helpful. One more thing, you came here looking for...

Check out this diagnostic link for 727. A-727 Torqueflite Diagnosis Dial

Had this sitting around for years and I'm not going to use it. Box looks bad but it is new. Fuel Pressure, 0-15 psi, 2 5/8 in., Mechanical. Sells for around $55 new I will take $35 shipped.

You can isolate the location of the noise with a stethoscope that will give you a better idea of where to start. Go to your local parts store and pick one up. They are similar to the ones used by doctors but will have a rod attached to the end instead of a round cup. As far as the trans, has...

Yes check your low reverse band adjustment first. How many miles on the trans? Did this just start or something new? More information will be helpful.