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Going with the original 3 prong...I traced out the wires and got positive test results on 2: yellow-dome light; black-door buzzer. Didn’t know how to test yellow striped-time delay. Now to get a new switch from Van’s.

Thanks for the info Dubob. The 3 pin connector has one stud that is badly corroded so I'll need the plug too....if I can't find one to wire in, I'm contemplating seeing if I can carefully remove the metal pins from the plastic and push new ones in....OR using the two prong connector and putting...

Here is the photo...hopefully.

Dome light doesn't work. During troubleshooting found both switches corroded. Top one is from pax side and cleaned up good...now delivers continuity/break in continuity. Bottom one is from driver's side and the prongs don't make contact You can see plastic coming down which keeps two of the...

Ran new wire through the firewall plug, rewired alternator over to starter relay with #10 wire and fusible link, cleaned up firewall connections and DC-4'd them, cleaned up fuse box, and some wiring left over from a failed attempt at electronic ignition years ago (think I had a lemon control...

We did pull each fuse one by one and had continuity through it all...my buddy thinks the voltmeter and/or light bulb might be causing the continuity...we did close the doors so the door switch to the dome light wouldn't be a factor.

Fuse box looked ok...found the firewall connector to be melted where the main power wire goes through. Pulled out the bad wires and plan to push through new wires tomorrow. Also plan to rewire the alternator over to the starter relay with a fusable link. Black wire coming into the cabin was...

Thanks Dubob, waiting on my buddy to come who's a lot smarter on this stuff then I am. That's a great idea...I'll start there with him holding the meter in the engine compartment and me pulling fuses...will post back what we find. Crazy day here with the drywall guy showing up to fix our...

Del - I finally caught my breath and posted on the electrical forum problems I'm having with Mr Duster...any help appreciated. Mark

Looking for some help to get Mr Duster up and running again. Mallory dual point distributer and stock coil(I think--round black). Couple years ago I took out the rally dash and had it sent off to a FABO member who did a great job renewing it. I opted to have the amp gauge display like a volt...

AC leak in attic...electrical troubleshooting on ‘71 Duster will have to be later...maybe Sep-sorry!

Praying for Kitty and you.

Pm sent on side lights.

Just a crazy thought...could it be a fuel delivery issue? Screen/filter blocked? Once pressure is off enough fuel gets by to the accelerator pump for initial fire, then when it fires up the supply isn't there....happened to me on a friends car a long time ago...like I said, probably a crazy...

I'm going to have to wait till my buddy can come over to answer that question. It's intermittent and we'd need a guy out at the battery when it fluctuates at the dash. I'm back on "family time" now about to play some checkers with my 4 yr old. I have to fix the melted plastic connector which...

Soon as I posted I saw your question. I thought I did it right, but I can't be sure...hence my making a chart and methodically checking again...and again. On my chart I had .75V the first time, then 0 the next two times with the switch on and checking from the positive post. I'm out of...

Great advice to double, double check my work. After studying post #4 diagram and making a chart of voltages at every point, I went to work cleaning and measuring V with the key on and off. Finally got no voltage drop between the positive battery terminal and the alternator blue wire measured...

12.38V...all connections cleaned up. I have a new VR...should I do the same check with it? Don't know if I'll fry it. It looks like there's 12+V coming to the blue wire with the ignition switch on, but engine off. V is 0 at the blue field on the alt with the VR cap on and 0 at the VR blue...

OK--followed the troubleshooting steps above and got a big red flag at step 2. 1. Does not charge with VR disconnected. 2. Did exactly as described and read 12.6 volts. From 67Dart273's post it appears I have voltage drop in the path from the battery to the VR. Could this be due to a bad...

Got the two field square back from auto zone...they replaced the wrong one field alternator with no hassle. Put a VR on order as it was cheap and thought my decades old one could possibly be bad. Put the new alternator on and was happy to see 14.2-14.4 volts at idle. Ran the throttle up and...

Thanks Bill, that along with what the other fella's have chimed in with has given me a much better understanding of what's going on...understanding electricity past V-IR was never a strength. Does it matter which field gets the blue and which gets the green wire? I called auto zone and they...

Thanks Rustedwrenh. I'm off to help a buddy build a deck now...but I hope to pull the alternator tonight and go see Autozone tomorrow or Saturday for sure. I think I'm getting a basic understanding f what's going on. The green wire IS important as it controls the alternator like a...

Thanks guys... Won't go to hard on the "expert" at autozone. I accept responsibility for what I put on my car...it didn't "feel" right...I should have known better. I'll let you know what happens.

Forgot to add this picture of the red wire which connects to a grey wire which appears to take power through the firewall connector...needs addressing due to the black plastic connector melting...hopefully attributed to the current issue I'm having.

Thanks again for the info. It appears I have one of the squareback/1 field alternators. I am posting pictures of what I have and I'll clean up the grounds and get the right square back 2 field alternator on Saturday...hoping the auto zone manager will help me out with the price. If he doesn't...

Concur, Thank you 67Dart273...just getting my coffee and out the door after a quick read, plan to digest your info later today and post a couple pictures of what I have. Can you shed some light on how a voltage regulator does what it does? It appears both field wires from the alternator hook...

I'll check the grounds tomorrow. A new VR was my first thought too, but I want to be sure I'm not going to damage it by not providing the two field inputs it normally receives. Still bothers me the green field wire is disconnected. Thanks for the ground input...so many times cleaning a ground...

Welcome from TX! Pile on with pictures and stories.

Fella's, please help me solve this problem I'm having. Stock '71 street car with 1 year old auto zone replacement alternator (has only 1 field instead of two--blue wire goes to the field and green goes to nothing...alternator has std post for black wire to battery). No aftermarket amp-drawing...