Search results for query: *

Thanks for the ideas guys I have the fuel lines ran up to the engine bay just gotta figure out which is best next, I want to use majority hard line but my tubing bender won’t do nice 90deg bends might have to look into a new one

Installed a sniper on my small block and was wondering what you guys running them did with the fuel lines to make them have a fairly clean look? Thanks

Any idea how many amp the factory one is rated for?

I guess I could just hide the stock one, as for bumping it to set lash I have a hand trigger I use that goes to the starter solenoid lol

Has anyone got rid of their old style starter relay and installed a more modern one that’s hidden? Basically wiring my car from scratch and wanting to get rid of the old style as they are not very appealing to the eye, any cons to doing this? Tia

It’s was laying down on top of The sleeve spacer, I’ll do s double Check and make sure I got 19 in all them

Ok so it was really bugging me so I ran out to the garage and it was a roller fallen over, it seems that I got one extra one in the kit and it had gone in and fallen over, I guess I should have checked before I asked lol thanks again for the help

Yeah the center is just the arbor I will pull it apart and make sure No rollers fell over but I’m almost positive it didn’t, there are 4 spacers total 1 on each outside and one between each set of needles, all the spacers are the same thickness, tomorrow I’ll pull it all apart and see to make sure

so I’m in the process of putting in my hemi OD kit from Passon Performance and am having troubles with the gear cluster fitting. I have all the spacers and needle bearings and and the last spacer sits proud of the end making it to long for it to fit in with the thrust washers should the spacers...

Yeah I cut the equinox one and drilled out the splines a bit where I welded it

I emailed Pypes and they will only sell the complete kit, and wont mix and match with a 3” x pipe. Which kinda sucks. I know I could just go 2.5” the whole way but it’s a certain sound I want to achieve not HP related, as I’ll only be putting out around 425hp

Nothing leading up to them yet but wanting to do a 3” x pipe and mufflers and then drop it down to 2 1/2” tailpipes

Where do I get just the tailpipes from I only seen full systems

So i have been looking for some 2.5” tailpipes for my duster preferably stainless I see some people are running Flowmaster tailpipes and they seem to be a good price for B bodies but I can’t find just the pipes for an A body, anyone know of the part number or any other good stainless tailpipes? Tia

Looking at the one thread it looks like the Nissan Versa is almost identical to the equinox one I used but has the remote ecu, you could probably install that one very similar to the way I did mine with little to no changes If I where to do it again I would probably try that one.

The equinox and Saturn Vue I believe are the same as long as they both have the metal box on them, the output is 16.5mm, but not exactly sure what size the input is, I know the input is a coarser spline then the output. I was originally going to try the Toyota one but couldn’t really find much...

It would be cool to have opinions on both from people that have driven each one

This one will not work in fail safe mode those are generally the Toyota ones

Wiring the modual is easy it plugs into the equinox unit and has a keyed power to hook up and a ground, then 2 wires 10ga to the battery, it comes with instructions and they also can sell it to you with a dial to adjust resistance, although I heard the dial doesn’t change much it also has a wire...

Take the equinox input coupler and cut it so you have all the factory splines on it and with a 3/4” bit drill it about 1/2” down creating a weldable coupler, you will have to do a little bit of figuring on where to cut your factory steering column shaft it should be 7 3/4” long from the bottom...

After this is done your motor will be Mounted to your column, next take your 3/4” shaft and grind a double d on it to fit the flaming river u joint and weld the 16.5 mm coupler on the other end, the total length of this shaft should be 19.5” from shaft end to top of coupler total, sorry I don’t...

Next your going to need to take apart the equinox column you well need the motor off it, input coupler and mount from the column, see pic where to cut the larger Od of the equinox tube fits inside the mopar steering column perfectly so I cut it at the largest part and hammer the inner flange in...

Parts list 05-06 Chevy equinox steering column from pick a part make sure is has the metal case on the control box Fla-fr1715dd Flaming river u joint from summit 16.5mm36 spline to 3/4” coupler and Steering Control module from www.epowersteering.com 3/4” shaft 3/4” flanged bearing I did...

Right now it’s 24:1 but do plan on upgrading to something with lower ratio

If I just do it post by post can someone compile it all together?

Yeah I wild for sure I’m just not that handy on a computer how do I write it up with pictures between

Yeah the collapsible part of the column has be eliminated you could possibly do it with leaving it in but would need some changes, I know it’s not the best but I have installed plenty of aftermarket columns in hot rods the don’t collapse either

The car is far from complete but it will be running a larger alternator due to the FI, eps, fans etc.

Well I built my eps set up for my duster and it turned out pretty good, here are a couple pics of it. It was pretty easy minus I had to mod the bracing for the brake pedals that go th where the steering column mounts. After doing this I found out that you can move the silver control box off it...

has anyone actually installed the eps in their A body using the equinox motor? I got the motor and think I have it mostly figured out how I’m going to do it but as my car is completely disassembled I am worried about the exact location on it interfering with something like the heater box pedals...