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Yeah I recall reading that and meant to look up how to get the discount, much appreciated! I am heavily leaning towards the PST 1.03s right now

Yeah my apologies! Hadn't noticed I dropped off a number haha Yeah the .920" are what I had in it. I'm currently doing a complete suspension rebuild and just trying to see what options are now. Looking at other threads, it does seem PST 1.03s get some love.

Hey guys! Hope everyone is doing well; had a quick question regarding current sources of torsion bars. A while back I got a set of the .9" Mopar Performance torsion bars which as far as I can tell, can't find anyone who sells them anymore. I noticed several companies (swayaway, pst, magnumforce)...

Well it is all kinda irrelevant now. Some parts I've been waiting to sell just did so I'm just gonna use that money to re-line the whole car, replace the master and the wheel cylinders. So my new question at hand is does anyone by chance new a 73 Darts MC bore diameter? ...however... I am now...

First off I greatly appreciate all the responses! To answer a couple questions. The system was working perfectly fine prior to me doing this brake work. Id be surprised if the MC suddenly failed, but I've seen crazier to be fair I did not back off the E-brake adjustment. I honestly did not...

UPDATE: I adjusted the shoes to the point that its almost a two man job getting the drums on. We checked the wheel cylinders, if you just depress the pedal, nothing. If you start pumping it they will start engaging. Regardless the pedal still feels really damn soft. Ill do the e-brake thing...

Not a great way to adjust them with the drum/wheel on due to that they are self-adjusting. If they were regular adjusters I'd just do them like I do 356's. Crank them till they cant turn to make sure the shoes are seated and then back them off till it turns well.

Yeah I'm currently waiting on my second pair of eyes to get home to check wheel cyl. engagement. I took photos of everything prior to doing the swap so I know everything went back as it was. Forgive my ignorance, but I thought the stock master was dual cylinder? So shouldn't the front discs...

Thats what I meant by giving them a slight drag. Have them set now so if you just spin the wheel, itll rotate smoothly but you can hear the shoes rubbing on the drums a tad.

So this one has me scratching my head a bit. Had my car on jack-stands for about a week while I got new tires put on my wheels and replaced the rear shoes and drums. Now that shes back on all fours, there's basically no pedal. Putting it to the floor will stop it from rolling in neutral but not...

Holley 600 CFM carb (Part #80457). In really good condition and was functioning properly when pulled off of car. Has electronic choke and vacuum secondaries. $200+shipping Performance upgrade for stock to mildly modified vehicles Universal calibration for easy bolt-on performance Factory preset...

Thanks! I'll get some pictures of the linkages to post them here. I can tell you now they were originally linkages for a 356 Porsche

I'd be lying if I said that mad max didn't have some influence on it haha

With not being able to work on it consistently, took a bit longer than I would have liked but its finally finished and mounted! Feeds directly into the filter top and can be opened or closed via linkages. Ended up leaving the finish as sandblasted aluminum and then clear coated.

Yeah it wasn't daily driving that had me concerned, but doing hot passes. Out of curiosity, what pump did you replace it with?

Thank you very much! This is some great information! It is a mechanical setup, but if I understand correctly the main factor with that is that at higher rpms that it can fail to pump as efficiently.

Hello guys, So I calculated my required fuel pump gph from engine demand to be 27.5. How much, if at all, am I taking a chance on hurting myself by still running a 25 gph carter fuel pump? When does this calculation really come into play? Just at long WOT would be my guess. Thanks in advance

I think the concern here is not the numbers themselves, as if he is thinking they are too low, but why there is 15 psi fluctuation at hot idle, if I read that correctly. If it's steady at cold idle and then gets the big swings at hot, I would be surprised if it was air in the line. It might just...

It's quite possible we are both right. You are 100% correct its moist there, I just would have expected it to leave at least some residue, unless of course its just burning off. I just know I had a pretty substantial amount build up when I uh.. forgot to teflon my bolts lol

The puddle would have formed between the edge of the manifold and cylinder head then as well rather then only spilling over. OP should put some good teflon tape on his bolts; my car did the exact same thing before I did.

Iv tuned both before with good results, just wasn't sure if the double pumper would be too much. While I do firmly recommend edelbrocks to daily drivers and people starting out, will probably go with the DP since I can get more out of it most likely

Hey guys, motor is a 73 318, valve-train redone with a XE256H, weiand stealth manifold, cope street/strip 904 with a 2500 stall, msd ignition, headers, 7 1/4 with 2.76's. Plan on swapping to any 8 3/4 with 3.91's mid summer. Looking to just go ahead and get a carb that will work for me now and...

Nothing is stuck. The inlet itself is leaking, it isn't seated correctly

No idea what it was sucking on but I did discovered it happens non-stop while in gear, at 650 rpm 14 inches of vacuum and then intermittently at the 870 rpm at 17 inches. The PCV valve is a BWD one I believe but it wasn't the part making the noise because I completely disconnected it to...

Finally got around to running through all my gaskets/vacuum lines/venturis/etc. and have determined it is the pcv circuit in the carb making the sound just in case you guys were curious

Not sure what you mean by T-port sync. Doesn't have any hesitations what-so-ever by what I can tell but I have yet to really rag her out yet.

Wasn't paying too close attention while it was warming up because I was gathering my timing light, vac gauge, etc. It was happening when it was fully warmed up though. Say if that was the issue, whats the fix for it? or is it just the way it is? Again to clarify, this occurrence has zero effect...

Got an interesting one for you guys today, completely stumped the edelbrock carb techs. So put a 1405 eddy on my 318 yesterday and was tuning it and noticed occasionally it would make a sound such as if you were sucking the last little bit of drink using a straw. Happened maybe every minute or...

I use the 2,800 lb springs on my dart. Part number 4120864 and 4120863. They are side specific

Larger torsion bars the better and for leaf springs, I currently have the mopar SS springs on my car and really like them but Espo's are another option and are very nice springs