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As long as we're beating a dead horse. :-) FWIW, a laser temp gun helped me determine air flow problems. A thermal imager would be useful also. In my case at idle, air was being sucked out from under the hood past the front of the radiator and back through again. I basically overcame the issue...

This thread may be helpful: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=310652 I couldn't find any references to those numbers but I'm also interested in the answer here. The Cherokee and Dakota guys ask this all the time - '96 and later being 29 and '96 and earlier being 27. In...

I wanted to hijack/resurrect this thread as I'm looking at a 360 swap for a 74 318. I came across this page that lists the general dimensions of A-body pans. http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/OilPanSchematics.html#head3

Thank you for sharing. I'm sorry I did not know Kevin. But I am glad that he accomplished so much and was loved by so many.

I like easy upgrades and this one is about as easy as you can get. Totally worth it. The difference was subtle but many people said, "that engine sounds really good" after that. Drivability was better overall. Due to my clumsy handling, I later 'upgraded' the coil connectors to NAPA 'pro'...

Just wanted to jump in here. I've been chasing intermittent problems like this. Aside from the usual bad grounds and corroded connections, the starter relay positive post was loose so I was having intermittent voltage going into the bulkhead. I've been slowly replacing electrical components...

I have used the heavy composite Rhino ramps brand for many years with no issues. I always get "truck rated" jacks, stands, etc

Go with the 318. I've been looking like you, 360s come and go - but not that often. I think my rear main seal is leaking oil, but I haven't tracked it down yet and was hoping to swap something in if I have to pull everything out.

When we re-fitted our front bumper, I realized how poorly these are centered... so to me this is a nice modification that adds a unique look and is a better fit/finish than the original. We are also missing the filler pieces. I'm looking forward to seeing how you did the back bumper.

Having chased down all of this stuff myself, I was amazed at how many connections (positive, negative), relay internals, bulb sockets, body grounds were corroded. Literally took me months to go through all the circuits that were not functioning properly. On the turn signals after fixing...

Thank you. It's starting to make sense to me. The p-s-t arms aren't adjustable, and there are no instructions - they're just marketed as being built with more caster in them than stock. (http://www.p-s-t.com/Tubular-Front-Control-Arms) I would have gone with a different company but didn't...

Sorry for this dumb question, but I can't seem to find a description beyond "out" and "in" in the forum. The question of, "what do the cams look like before?" - unfortunately I swapped in tubular arms, and didn't take a pic before doing that. "On the front UCA mount the camber bolt should be...

FWIW, my normal method of testing the ends of a circuit and working inwards, I have found, is not efficient way to troubleshoot electrical problems on our Scamp. My problem was that I didn't realize (should have been obvious) that the horn button wire is only hot when the relay is getting...

Just installed, I highly recommend Jerry's adapter plate. I used Kicker 4" even though the speaker holes are for 3.5" - they fit from the bottom and leave plenty of room for the climate controls.

A couple of points on this in case someone else finds this thread. - The plastic bushings need to be hot to avoid breaking during installation. - Luckily, most sellers on eBay are selling these in packs of 6, though I'm on second order due to breaking them during install. In boiling water, they...

Best of luck on your tour!

Headlight relay kit + Sylvania SilverStar sealed beams = highly recommended.

Looking for Valiant bumper filler plastic parts - I have the front center part, and rear driver side zigzag piece. Please let me know what you have.

American Muscle 23461 MOPAR Torsion Bar Remover & Installer - bought this recently, but my mechanic wanted to do it his way and use his tools. It is unused. - I paid ~$45 shipped. Selling to FABO for $35 shipped USPS Priority. //// SOLD AND SHIPPED to Dodge74 ////

Thanks - my son Otto made the decision on the Chrysler Sherwood Green... i didn't know but it sounds like we should wait until the paint has had time to vent in the sun until we use a cover. I will plan on one though for this fall.

I'm looking on recommendations for an outdoor cover. We just got the Scamp painted and want to try to keep the paint looking good as long as possible. This is one day later - Chrysler Dark Sherwood green with yellow oak pollen highlights.

Awesome. Thanks for the information and pic! This forum has a great feature (vBulletin) that shows related threads, but only after you post the message. That led me to discussions about 'self steering' and 'valve adjustment'. It was new to me but I see now that this is fairly common. If nothing...

I put in a refurbed firm feel box, and when the wheels are off the ground and engine is idling, the wheel will spin all the way to lock. The mechnanic I took the car to for suspension work says its not supposed to do that - says the box is bad. I just wanted to make sure that diagnosis is right...

I would recommend adding that information to your product description so that others don't purchase the wrong part like I did.

For the record, we replaced our stock steering box with a Firm Feel power steering box and the sector shaft is too big for the p-s-t pitman arm. We have stock manifolds so I'm going to use the longer idler arm, which I read only creates a 'turn in' problem at full lock. Hotchkiss has a bit...

Short version is that the Scamp is starting while cranking now. God bless glass packs for lifting the spirit. However, I'm still not confident about the wiring. But progress is progress. I pulled the dash and bypassed the Ammeter. I had to pull the dash anyways to check the wiring there again...

Thanks all... 67Dart273 I much appreciate the illustrated connector orientation/colors. After many days Googling, I found this previous thread. Hopefully this will raise the Google-meter for future search results. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=58414

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it. The seatbelt interlock relay is located near the Ballast Resistor - and I had already bypassed it by splicing the yellow wires together. The yellow there only gets 12v when ignition is in run however. So where I am right now is that the engine cranks, I...

Thanks for the confirmation. I had tried connecting the brown and blue but was not getting 12v on crank. I am not getting voltage from the brown coil+ wire on crank, so I have a problem to track down somewhere.