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I bet it's going to run hot with a 180-190° thermostat, a smaller fan and that radiator. Your temperature sender really needs to be in the intake up stream of the thermostat. A shroud will help alot and a thinner fan spacer, generally a 1" minimum gap between the fan blades and the radiator is...

3k on the whole car? I wouldn't spend the money to have the 906s worked I would invest in a good cam intake and carb to run with what you have going.

If you run a set of eagle or scat rods they will certainly be lighter than the factory rods so you will have to tale weight off of the crank not add to it i would say a capable shop could do it pretty cheap a good balance job is a must in any new build in my opinion. I personally have scat I...

What exactly does it mean when it refers to it "hitting" the tires is that like a shock loading? If it hits too hard they will break loose?

Sand works fine I've been blasting intakes for years just make sure its good and clean before you bolt it on just blow all the sand out of it

Generally you will set them while on the base of the can lobe. Turn the pushrod and tighten the adjuster until you feel some tention while turning the push rod then turn the adjuster 1- 1 1/4 turns. That is usually about .030 I had the same exact set up in my engine all Hughes stuff

I personally haven't ran any but I've installed them on some buddies cars fords and Chevy small blocks with mildish cams they haven't had any trouble out of them yet and the ford sees regular abuse just inspect them any that may be subject just send them back I've heard proform/ speedmaster have...

I think it has something to do with the delay of air fuel mixture flowing over the screws in a roots type added to the extra duration on a blower type cam. I've never known of a centrifugal blower surging like what you're talking about.since the air is forcing the fuel in front rather than...

Still you said "legit" I don't see any legit shop doing something so outrageous. I just want to hear more of the story. What is the name of the shop and where is it located?

I ordered a new harness like that too it should have in the paper work what each wire is for. Some wires may not be used depending on how your car was optioned if you have extra wires that serve no purposes de-term them from your bulkhead

OK everybody chill. Yes 6k is an outrageous number. The tech knows that too. Why is he asking that much? What all went into that 60 he's of work? There is more to this story than you (the op) is telling us I know some shops will sometimes try to squeak a few hours here and there by a costumer...

What brand do you have? I have comp solid rollers in mine I don't have an oil hole that I'm aware of they just have a band machined in them

OK I just saw where you are running a solid roller.

I ran a HV oil pump with a stock pan for a long long time 7800 rpm through the traps never lost any oil pressure I would pour an extra quart in it when I changed the oil. A lot of people claim that the extra oil ads extra windage that brings a loss of power , and that may be so but a bearing...

They are a fine and dandy head for a stockish build but I wouldn't expect any real power come on guys let's call it what it is they are smog heads never had any intent on supporting power they were designed for fuel efficiency and lowered emissions

I respectfully disagree the port volume just isn't there on the 302s to support 300 horsepower

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I knocked mine out with a hammer and cleaned up the edges with a burr bit

If it didn't on the hose I would be pretty upset

What are some of the stories? I have one on my engine for my challenger with no issues

In actions leading to me having a need to see my tach I don't want to look away from the road

I use Mopar batteries from the dealer damn tough batterys and reasonable prices

I use cheapo rubber mounts and a torque strap does fine and saves the mounts

I wouldn't do it until you put the pan back in it you're just asking for trouble. You could go though and stitch weld some braces in all along where the pan normally sits and probably be okay. But I think if it were me I would just go ahead and finish the pan project before I start the engine...

No its just a Dupont color out of the spectracolor chip book

Will trade bolts for your studs.

I was working in Stockton Missouri last year and came to the show I bought all kinds of stuff and brought it back home to Chattanooga wish I could make it this year just too far from home for a one day event though

You will need an adjustable proportion valve just to set the front to rear bias

I'm interested in this as well. Do you know the length of pushrod you are using

I talked to Jim at Hughes engines and he said that the locks and retainers that they installed on here will take anything I can throw at them. That makes me feel better