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Never mind, Rock Auto has them and I have store credit to burn. At first I thought they weren't the same as OEM, but then I looked again and they seem identical. Close enough anyway.

I need a window crank handle for 74 Swinger (unless it can be fixed?). @limegreen70 is selling some (ad here) but his inbox is full. I need the one with the tapered grip.

Not Mopar but I trust y'all. My 2006 Odyssey started making a whining or whistling noise. It doesn't start until after 20 minutes of 65-70mph driving. It stops momentarily when my foot is on the brake, and it stops when I am changing lanes to the right. It goes away when I slow down. Ideas?

4 pins. Didn’t know there were different ones.

The one with the yellow flower on it. Mine must have fallen off. :-(

Actually yes. I didn't see anything.

I set the idle at 750 (in Park) per the 1974 fender sticker. I realize that might not be optimal in the current build, with modern fuel etc, but I don't know of any reason to change it. Anyway, it's been running well for the last couple of weeks. There's still a slight hiccup when it's idling...

I was going by this article: Super Six And also this post: exhaust size - Slant Six Forum I agree that the manifold outlet is the same size as the outlet on my 1974 manifold. I assume the designers thought it was worth using a larger pipe even though they didn't enlarge the manifold outlet.

It drops maybe 180-200 RPM, so say 750 and 550-570.

Yeah, I'll assume it's the flash circuitry. The pickup and trigger circuitry is working, at least as far as the tachometer portion because it reads RPM just fine. It just doesn't flash.

Looking for a replacement flash tube, I found a page on toolsource.com where (1) the tube is discontinued and (2) it says don't bother replacing the tube: So maybe I'll just use this one as a tach and get a new one for timing.

Has anybody replaced the strobe in a modern timing light? I have an Actron 7529 (made by Bosch), inductive timing light with dial-back and tachometer. The light quit working, so it still reads RPM but can't be used for timing. I asked the manufacturer how to get a replacement strobe, and they...

The shop manual actually does say if none of the troubleshooting reveals the problem, then change the ECU. NGK plugs are popular on slantsix.org. Some like the ZFR5N in particular because of the longer extension into the cylinder. But others don't like that. I don't think I noticed any...

This weekend I replaced the NGK 7-series spark plugs with hotter 5-series plugs. I also reset the distributor reluctor gap to 0.008". Of course while doing that I also disconnected and reconnected a lot of things. And while reading out voltages last night, I swapped out my ballast resistor...

I got out my multimeter and did the tests in the service manual. You're supposed to use a special test box, but it tells you what to do if all you have is a multimeter. Disconnect the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) 5-pin connector. With key on, engine off: - Cavity 1 in the connector should be...

I tried a second application of cleaner wax. It took off a rather disturbing amount of paint. Right now it looks really good for a 47 year old paint job, but it also looked pretty good after the first time I used the wax. If the haze comes back again I'll try a clay bar next time.

Long story short, I got coolant on my hood and now the paint is hazy and rough. This is original 1974 E5 red paint. Immediately after the spill I washed the car and applied Meguiar's cleaner wax. That helped temporarily, but over the following weeks it clouded over again. Should I try the...

I put my ZFR5N plugs back in. See pic below of the 7's after being removed. I test drove with the 5's and there's no ping (the correct carburetor solved that). The distributor shaft is in good shape. I didn't know there's supposed to be a gap between the distributor reluctor and its pickup...

Thanks for the troubleshooting advice, that is just what I was looking for. I did check the wires were snug at both ends, but the timing light would be a good way to check firing.

The accelerator circuit is definitely working. The problem is only at idle, and only in gear.

I just installed the carb last weekend. I haven't looked at the plugs, but I do have an AFR gauge in the dash. It shows around 13 at speed and around 12 at idle. When I first installed the new carb I set it to 14 at idle. When I noticed this intermittent stumbling problem I set it richer but...

The ignition control unit is fairly new as well, installed about 12,000 miles ago. I've noticed that the problem gets worse the longer I sit in traffic or drive at low speed. It's as if the underhood temperature is affecting it. If it was a vacuum leak, wouldn't the idle be rough all the time...

It "feels" like an ignition problem, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot it. I may be missing something easy. Here's the problem. After installing my new (reman) Super Six BBD carburetor, I have an intermittent stumble at idle, only when in gear (never in Park or Neutral). Some days it's...

I used Slip Plate spray on the exhaust manifold, something like $13 online. I also used it on a lot of the brackets, bolts, and things that the factory painted black: steering pump, fan pulley, kickdown linkage, etc. It contains graphite but it's different from the graphite lube spray sold by...

Yes, I should have mentioned that. The ping is gone even with timing more advanced. Side note: along the way I recurved my distributor: I replaced the springs with the springs from the Super Six donor car's distributor. There's much less mechanical advance now, so I can run plenty of initial...

Update for anyone interested... The Chinese BBD clone was running rich at idle (even with screws all the way in) and going very lean with the throttle open. I spent a lot of time adjusting the stepup piston, trying to get the fuel/air mixture rich enough at high speed/load while also lean...

I did try setting initial to 22 and I definitely had ping there. Good info, thanks. The only reason I used the 11 vacuum advance can is that my 8.5 can leaks vacuum, about an inch per second. I guess it might work OK but it would be hard to test with a handheld vacuum pump, and I wouldn't...

The tag number on the donor distributor is 3874876 and it was on a 2bbbl auto car. If I'm reading the chart right, it is only supposed to provide a maximum of about 7 degrees of mechanical advance at the crank (~4.7 at 2200 rpm compared to ~1.2 at 600 rpm, so 3.5 degrees difference at the...

I went for a drive and there's no detonation, even at WOT at 80 mph. So that's nice. But I still need to adjust the fuel/air mixture.

Here's what I measured with the 1979 springs and governor plate in the 1974 distributor (vacuum line to distributor was disconnected and plugged). Initial timing was 10.5 degrees BTC. I only get 7.7 degrees of mechanical advance, which is all in by 1750 RPM. This doesn't seem right. And...