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Yes, I have a Miller Maxstar 150, probably made me more money, other than my mig. 3/32 7018 rod, I prefer the Lincoln AC/DC version, a little easier to start. That will also run on 230 volt, and it's incredible what you can weld with. 1/8" rod, not a problem. @ 115v 70amps 100% duty, 230v...

That's why this stuff is cheap on auctions. Physically they are big and heavy, power wise they will eat alive, and converting a tranny that size to single phase would be more expensive than buying a new single phase machine...

Usually, the bigger the machine at auction, the cheaper they are, lathes, mills, welding, etc. Not much use for a light duty occasional welding... I'm a true blue guy, but there's some nice chinese stuff out there, like yes welder, and some others, multi purpose machines. Flip what you have...

Car is Sold!!!

Addition pictures..

I would never post a vin on a public forum.... Its a original GT, 273 2brl, auto. Purchase in Yonkers NY. Car was undercoated, trunk solid, dropoffs solid. Have grille, and rear bumper, both need restoring. I have the fender tag and build sheet, also warranty card. It's a shell, not worth...

Mine!!! Ask away...

Interesting video, but bottom line, the difference is in the heads... The HEMI flows better out of the box...

We never went out, XVM went belly up when the owner ran out of Peters to pay Pauls... I started my business shortly after.. As far as ma Chrysler not being hot rod friendly, they have always been the red headed step child, a little different, more difficult, but that's what we enjoy. If I...

Pictures won't help, there's about $500,000 worth of design and R&D sitting there, the geometry and shocks are the key. Best of luck... CR

I already built a K with a C6 front end mated to it, It's called the XV VTR suspension...

#1 It wasn't bought from a machine shop, #2 if it's a high perf build, IF you get any kind of warranty its usually tied to a time limit, so yeah if you bought a motor from a machine shop, and it sat for 4 months, and you found rusty cylinders, you would probably be SOL...

I would never purchase a "rebuilt" tooth brush unless it came with a warranty. And something like a motor, first thing I would have done is pull a head before firing it up. I haven't read through the whole thread, but sounds like it was rebuilt, but rusted up in storage. So at which place did...

T That's exactly how I ended up here. The material cost to build one doesn't make sense because for a couple hundred more, I could get a new one delivered to my door. Used ones do pop up, but they go quick. And unless you plan on doing a bunch of restorations, you're only going to use it...

Hey Jim, just showing what could be done, good luck with it!!!

#1, yes my design would cost me less than that, and #2 it's local pickup and I'm on the wrong coast.... :)

What could go wrong? :)

Complete front setup with the adapters for the an A Body.

This is the guy off fb mopar a-body projects, not mine...

Exactly what I'm saying, if I was going to build a post style rotisserie, no doubt I would build the Redwing, but I don't get my metal for free, and if I purchased everything, I could go out and buy one already made for a few hundred bucks more. I saw on the FB a bodie project page, some just...

Why? I'm a welder by trade, 11ga tube, and plenty of surface to weld, it ain't going anywhere. You start over welding things, you actual weaken the material you weld. Very rarely unless it's an inexperienced welder, does it break at the weld, it almost always fails next to the weld, the haz.

Version 2, round lower legs.... I'll build the front adapter tonight in Solidworks

Here's my take on it, a quick solidworks drawing.... 2x2 sqr tube, 1-1/2 solid shaft

Totally agree, I looked at all the single post designs, and just the material cost alone was enough to say it wasn't worth my time, and I'm a fabricator with all the right tools. That's why this design intrigued me, simple, few parts, very good design...

I guess you didn't read the first post, they have the same setup for 67 and 70 Mustangs... Spreading the load the way they do with 2 members instead of the single vertical, is a much better, stronger way of doing it. CR

Doesn't get more simple than this, I think i would use square tube instead of angle iron... Jellybellys Guide to Building a Rollover Jig/Spit

Right exactly the Redwing plans. I can buy a Redline system for about $1000, not worth the difference price for my time... If I can build something for $500 or less, then I might think about it..

I've looking all over for a less expensive either outright buying one or fabricating, and for cost of some the less expensive ones, doesn't seem like I can do one for much less than $1000, which wouldn't be an issue if I planned on using it again... I guess across the pond they call them roll...

It's not a crack, looks like it's sold...

From what I remember and I also saw it posted online, either a 10.5 or 11, 2 starter positions....