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Oldie but a goodie...

Ram Clutches is looking into developing a pocketed flywheel and dual disc clutch for the 273/318 LA and slant six engines. They presently have a flywheel and bell housing for them and will be seeing if it is possible to adapt their production Force 9.5 flywheel to work with these 2 applications...

Just to verify the valves and ignition for each cylinder is ok, I would start it up and pull off the plug wires 1 by 1 and see if any dont change the roughness more. If so, that cylinder isn’t firing. Hopefully the cause is nothing real bad like a broken rings, piston, bent valve etc. As far as...

I hear you kestab. This has been an issue for a long time for us manual transmission slant folks. I believe this Force 9.5 clutch is the upgrade that makes the most sense for dealing with the inherent weakness of the clutch/flywheel of the OEM slant cars. Changing the clutch to anything bigger...

If you are interested in this clutch, I have the info on slantsix.org This is likely to happen pretty quickly so let us know if you are in on this buy soon.

Have you considered one of the throttle body EFI units available now? I just put one on my slant (Holley Sniper 4 bbl) and it made a huge difference. I had the Eddy 500 and a Holley 390 which were good but the closed loop control of the EFI just makes everything a lot easier, especially if you...

Especially when the z bar cracks

A 10” or less 23 spline disc is almost unheard of these days. The flywheel is also not the greatest as they develop cracks at the PP bolts with the 10” clutch. This is a safer option and opens up a bunch of possibilities for other transmissions.

I have toasted my 10” Police Taxi clutch in about 1000 miles so I know what is Presently available isn’t enough. The Force 9.5 is what Ram has offered to do and I am quite happy about it. Drivability is said to be very good. Going to the strip and dumping the clutch at 3500 or more shouldn’t...

I recently contacted Ram Clutches about them making a clutch for my slant and it was suggested I use a Force 9.5 and they would make a pocketed flywheel for the slant six. As of today, a stock, large center hole flywheel and bellhousing is on its way to SC to see if we can fit this thing in. A...

Exterior spear stripe color is the same as the interior color too!

Black with foil embossed Dart on backs. Bought new and never used. Front buckets only. No rear seat or covers available. I have the bucket seats for the 64 Dart also, though in rough but restorable shape. Will ship seat covers anywhere in CONUS, but not the seats. Local pickup in San Jose Ca...

Killer6, There is an extensive thread on the Comp Cam oil gear failure issue on slantsix.org. A post mortim of a few engines running comp cams that had oil pump gear failures were analyzed and the verdict was essentially material hardness incompatibility. It is an interesting read. I am not...

Yeah, it's all guess work here on the Internet.

If it made no noise prior to the tuneup, I also believe it is likely the ignition timing. Sure sounds like it. Not rhythmic enough for a typical rod knock, but possible. Have you tried to twisting the distributor to make the sound worse? Play with th point gap, if so equipped? Good luck.

Nice. What grind cam did you get? My slant has the Offy, had the Holley 390 and big valve head shaved about .050" I have the 264/440 cam. If I recall with my setup my primary jets were 56-58, secondaries were 64ish, yellow secondary spring and a power valve that opened fairly early. May not...

Hook up fuel can up with fuel line to back side of fuel pump bypassing fuel tanks and line. See if it starts. Check all vacuum lines for cracks or looseness. Check ignition timing with light. Check back with results. We can move up to the next level. Good luck.

I am always happy with manufacturers making parts for the slant, but the Comp cam has some bad things about it as mentioned earlier threads. The cam gear is hardener and will break your cam gear prematurely. Also, the cam is center lined way off to get any decent low end torque. I don't believe...

Your problem could be so many different possibilities. If it won't start with starter fluid, but sputters, I would check timing, ignition and valves. When I rebuilt my slant some years ago, I had 2 different problems which prevented the initial startup. I had the wrong year harmonic balancer...

Definitely the SSBC a153 brakes for a body Mopars. Power or manual? How do they work?

Is the sound a whine or something different? Is it constant or does it oscillate faster with speed? Does the sound happen during acceleration and deceleration or just one, not the other? Thanks

"Sure grip" is a 2 wheel drive under hard acceleration. "Open" is 1 wheel drive no matter how hard you drive. With a lower power car, I wouldn't worry about sure grip. A sure grip unit for a 742 case isn't cheap, so you may want to wait until you get more power and need it.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3189/3085393005_6f4f5be768_z.jpg

Nice one. Good luck with her.

I had the same problem and it was a cracked z bar. It was hard to see since it was on the back and would go back to its original shape when the pedal went back to the up position. Welded it up and all was well. Let us know what you find and good luck.

Do you still have the brake booster and bracket for sale? Thanks, Andy

Do you still have the brake booster and bracket for sale? I don't need the MC.

I went with the SSBC kit 153A which I wouldn't recommend. Price is high and you will need a lot of pedal force if you stay with manual brakes.

I have a good pair in Ca. Let me know if still interested.

Ditto on the cam. See if he will recurve the distributor for you too. That is a low cost high gain improvement. I would do this in this order: Cam and head work (since it needs to be done anyway) Distributor recurve these 2 items will give you much enter low end torque or grunt 2 bbl...