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Hi, From my 71 parts book the piston ring number is 2275207. You can try Ebay or obsolete parts listings like partsvoice.com. Good choice on rebuilding your RV-2 as decent quality commercial rebuilts are very difficult to find.

Hi, The new front bearing needs to be pressed on and the old one pressed off. So, the crankshaft has to be out of the compressor. To get the crank out you have to unbolt the piston rods from the crank and to get to those you have to remove the oil sump pan. Removing that sump pan is impossible...

Yes, they will function the same. The only thing you will need to check out is to remove the EPR valve if it is present behind the suction port on the rear of the compressor. The B and C body bigger cars had an EPR valve, the A bodies up to I believe 1974 did not. The EPR valve (Evaporator...

The compressor case on the right is an older part number going back to the late 50's early 60's. The V piston compressors had a long life span from the late 50's to pick up trucks in the early 80's. The RV-2 part numbers I listed are from a 70-71 parts book as that is the age of my 71 Charger...

Be careful about which compressor you're working on. The part numbers I listed were for an RV-2 compressor which is the larger of the two Chrysler used. The V-2 is the smaller compressor used on 6 cylinder cars. The RV-2 is a little over 10 Cu. Inches the V-2 is around 9. Pistons, crankshafts...

For all those working on RV-2 compressors- Piston Package 2541330, one piston, one sump Gasket, one head Gasket and one valve plate gasket Crankshaft Package 2815755, crankshaft, two head gaskets, two valve plate gaskets, sump gasket and front seal. Front Bearing 2019681 Rear Bearing 1984152...

Even a scope will show a very slow pulse rate of a trace line moving up and down and not a true pulse. This system is a very slow time constant thermal integration system. It was quite a bit of clever late 1950's engineering, but woefully obsolete now. The IVR regulators of this type fail in one...

Hi, If the A/C is charged with refrigerant you'll have to have that recovered before disconnecting the A/C lines. When you do disconnect the lines plug or cap both the open hose ends and evaporator side of things to prevent dirt from entering. This is really important as it doesn't take much to...

Please take the warning on purchasing real R-12 very seriously. You need a 609 certification to buy real R-12 any legitimate source will ask you for your certificate. Also as a hint there is no such thing as R12A. If you see R-12A on the can know that it is mostly R-134A and a voodoo mix of...

Off the compressor you'll need the flexibility of the hoses for anything that connects to body components. The Sanden compressor fittings are standard A/C fittings #8 I think, and you'll most likely need right angle ones. But, a good A/C shop should be able to make up the hoses for you. As you...

You may want to consider replacing the Expansion (TXV) valve as well. If it's stuck from sitting for many years it will be a headache that will cause you to remove your new refrigerant and replace the valve. You are going to need new hoses made up to mate with your new Sanden compressor with the...

HI, Be careful with big alternators and stock wiring and ammeters. The bulk head connector contacts could barely handle 35 amps when new and the ammeters were good for about 40 amps. 90 amps alternators can get you into trouble without some wiring upgrades.

Hi, There's no reason you can't reuse the metal line if it it in good condition and not all rusted up. If you are new to A/C work some things to consider- you want to get all traces of the old mineral oil out of the system by flushing the evaporator and any lines you reuse. If your new...

Yes, the RV-2 differs from more modern compressors in that they have their own oil sump and oil pump that provides internal pressure lubrication. They are one of the most rugged A/C compressors ever put on a car. They make great off road air compressors. They do however circulate a small amount...

Hi, You would install the new receiver/drier before you vacuum down the system. But, you first need to learn how to install A/C components and deal with the O ring seals. Sales people at places like Autozone are often not the best places to get advice. You don't know what type of oil or how...

HI, From reading your posts I can see you're fairly new to automotive A/C work and very likely these old Mopar systems. So, here are a few things to consider. If you have no idea what is in the present system it would be a good idea to take it to an A/C shop or borrow a refrigerant identifier...

Hi, I'm curious about why you think the compressor needs to be rebuilt. RV-2's are really rugged and i don't think I've ever seen one just plain wear out. The only thing that will kill them is running out of oil. Front seal and gaskets sets are available. Go over to mymopar and down load a parts...

Hi, Unlike newer compressors, the RV-2 clutch does not have a means to adjust the gap. When the clutch faces wear to the point where they slip you have to replace the clutch assembly. As 67dart273 suggests check that the clutch coil is getting full system voltage. Also, the Factory Manual...

Hi, I just threw a 1969 Valiant 4DR, slant 6 in number 3 condition which would represent a nice survivor into Hagerty's valuation guide and it came up with 4800. They did not seem to go up to 1970. But, I think this will give you some idea of what a classic car insurance company would give you...

HI, Ospho is basically a phosphoric acid solution. It converts iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate which is more chemically stable that rust. The bigger concern with phosphoric acid compounds is that not all primers are compatible with it and you need to be sure it is properly neutralized and...

I would go with a good used OEM fender if you can find one, media blasted and then put in epoxy primer. AMD would be a good second choice but I don't trust Chinese E-coat, so I would strip it off and prime in Epoxy. I've seen rust and even dirt under some re-pop Chinese E-coat. A really good...

Hi, Sorry you have to go through all the hassle due to someone's carelessness. I can imagine how hard it is to see the car like that. I would find a shop that does high end collision work, like on BMW's and such or a good restoration shop that deals in classic cars. I would not let one of...

Hi, The stock 65 Valiant alternator was something like a 35 amp unit. What you are calling a "flat back" alternator is called a "square back" and is a 1972 and up type usually rated at 60 amps. Unless a rebuilder turned it into something else which is entirely likely today. You will need a new...

Hi, It's hard to tell if your new compressor has a problem with out actually hearing it. RV- 2's are noisier than newer compressors. They make their own unique sounds when moving refrigerant around. As far as I know only rebuilt RV-2's are available these days and most of the chain store...

HI, You absolutely need to vacuum down the system. Any air in the system will cause very high compressor discharge pressures and possibly cause damage to system components. Also, 21 inches of vacuum is not really low enough, you want to get down to 29 or 30 inches. Those cheap air compressor...

Hi, That compressor is now essentially scrap metal. I would get a new one as it's not worth trying to rebuild that one. You may now have bits of aluminum through out your A/C system so it will need to be carefully flushed out. The original serpentine condensers can be flushed , newer parallel...

The Four Seasons # is 48833 for a rebuilt clutch and coil assembly. I haven't seen the coil separately lately. If what you need is a coil for the two belt clutch let me know and I'll see if I can find the Mopar p/n for it and you might be able to track one down. Some one here on the forum might...

Hi, As I recall the single groove clutches used something like 1-5/8" coils and the two groove clutches used 2+ something inches coils .I would have to do some digging through the parts books. As far as I know they are not interchangeable. Also, those coils seem to be getting hard to find...

Hi,, The RV type twin piston compressors go back to the late 50's. The slant sixes used a smaller displacement version and was labeled RV. V8's used a slightly larger displacement RV-2. By the time the aftermarket rebuilders got into things they are all called RV-2's and both versions got...

Hi, Nice looking car. It looks like you still have the original A/C crank pulley on there. On a 72 318, the compressor and alternator shared the same two drive belts with the alternator acting as the idler/ tension adjustment. The trick with any aftermarket A/C system or non-original...