Search results for query: *

Hood & driver side door?

I think they used to use the term "squish" in the old days, and there really wasn't that big of a deal about it like there is now. Also, I think it was a common belief that open chamber heads breathed better.

They were intended for stick shift drag cars that launched at high rpm. They could possibly work on a modern drag car using a 2 step, trans brake, and very high stall converter, but in my opinion they suck. I let my buddy trade his pair of 1850's that I set up for his 427 Chevy for a pair of...

I know that this is an old thread, but I'd like to give my advice/opinion on subject for anyone who looks at this for advice. Do not use 660 center squirters on any kind of street car. There is no power valve circuit. If you're familiar with how a drag race car with blocked powervalves drives...

Factory radio? Sorry. Don't know.

Aftermarket radio? Somebody wired it to wrong power source. Needs to be wired to "accessories" power source. If you can't find proper power source, you can tap it into accessories source on fuse box. Use a fuse.

Was there in early '90's right after Hurricane Andrew hit Fla. Went to Fla to help out my girlfriend's sister and brother in law. Big Dad's museum was the coolest place I had ever seen, and it's supposed to be much better now. My girlfriend wasn't really much interested in cars, but she let...

You really are a Mopar Maniac, ain't ya!

Nice work, buddy.

The days, eh, fratzog? Bought my first Mopar, a very nice '64 Polara 500 383 4 spd with a cracked block for $250. That was my second car- my first was a '64 GTO 389 4spd. Tore it up! The Dodge took everything I dished out. After that, Mopar or no car! The Mopars weren't the "in" cars where I...

Looks like you've been busy. Are you the 13 yr old Mopar maniac? My 17 yr old grandson isn't interested in anything but video games. Nice work. How long did you go to school with Por 15 all over you? haha

In my early years of being a gearhead (early 70's), professional custom built engines were much less common. 440's were easy to get. If you knew someone scrapping a rusty, banged up, 440 Chrysler, they would probably give it to you just to get rid of it. Pull the motor, swap your goodies from...

I see your point w/'67 piston farther in hole, but for some reason the '67's had better low rpm power. They pulled like crazy right off idle w/low stall converter

67 was best 440

If you got it driving decent, you're still going to have to open up pvcr in primary metering block to get wot afr in the ballpark. Add 2-3 jet sizes to secondary before doing that. Also, you shouldn't need that green pump cam (your main complaint in the beginning was poor fuel mileage, right?)...

Testing 123...:banghead: trying to post pic from "moderately intelligent" phone No luck, so far #-o

36 is ok

Oh, sorry, Proform. Aluminum? That might make heat issue worse(?)

There's a passage that crosses under the intake manifold plenum connecting an exhaust port on each cylinder head to heat intake mixture. It's only necessary in very cold weather, or on a manifold that has a choke stove. Your Holley needs to be kept as cool as possible to work properly. When...

Cam's fine, carb's fine.

Is that B5 blue? Are those later model doors w/out vent windows. Very nice car.

big block, pull off dist cap to see which terminal(plug wire) rotor is pointing at. Mark that wire. Take note which way rotor is pointing. Turn dist to desired position. Rewire cap with the wire you marked lined up w/rotor. Set timing.

Rick, is rallye dash original equip in your car? The reason I'm asking is because I saw a post that said it wasn't available in Dart. I'm third owner of my Dart, and it has rallye dash. Doesn't have tach or "performance meter(?)" What is that- vacuum gauge?

'66 fairlane- headers-1 car garage, 10°, no heat. Couldn't use factory shock type stabilizer and didn't know if it was necessary (it wasn't). Then picked up a factory cast iron 4 bbl manifold and tried to use a Carter AFB carb. Couldn't get any parts to tune it. A professional carb rebuild...

I think a big part of your problem is heat.

Also, in case you didn't know, vacuum advance is adjustable with allen wrench through hose connection hole. I would tune motor not even using vacuum advance, then add and tune after curve & carb are straightened out. You want a quick curve and probably end up using very little vacuum advance.

Also power valve not responsible for "cruise control". That's probably related to vacuum advance.

Definetly have to "modify" distributor. Have to shorten up amount of advance. If you're not familiar w/ distributor, just to let you know, there is a wire clip under the felt wick on top of shaft that must be removed. I use long nose plyers. A little tricky to remove and reinstall.

I bought the relay at the auto parts store. It came as a kit w/ connectors & wire for approx $10.

I just did a Holley w/electric choke on a GM vehicle. Directions warned about not using ign source for power. I used ignition source to trigger a common relay wired directly to battery.