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$200 obo, local pickup only, absolutely NOT interested in trying to ship it. Located in Massanutten, VA 22840. Don't know a whole lot about the block itself, I bought it off my dad who bought it off a family friend. Someone dropped it off at his shop to have it built up eventually but never came...

Mancini Racing Adjustable Brake Rod Pushrod: $20 Manual Pushrod: $20 Disc Brake Slider Caliper Brackets: $20 Master Cylinder Adapter: $10 Dust Shields: $10 Brake hose: free Shipping will be in flat rate boxes, $8 for small, $13 for the dust shields

Location: Harrisonburg, VA 22801 Hellwig swaybar 55905 (73+ A body) Like new Hellwig swaybar. Was barely on 100 miles before I had to take it off for a QA1 setup. 73+, only works with the later spool k-members with the sway bar passing through it. Has adapter mounts for cars without the...

Location: Harrisonburg, VA 22801 Doug's D453 small block headers for A, B, E body mopars. Please check double check fitment before buying these. They were on my 318 for ~200 miles before I switched over to a full TTI setup. They were ceramic coated black by a local shop using Cerakota. $350...

I'm getting crankcase pressure issues with my freshly rebuilt 318. I had this issue before and it ended up being from some bent exhaust pushrods that was caused by a lack of oiling since my rocker shafts were on wrong. I found the issue really early and didn't appear to do any real damage to the...

So I'm stumped. I bought an assembled 904 from CRT and it was working great when I finished the car last fall and got the B&M ratchet shifter dialed in. I put about 200 miles on it and had to put it away for the winter. I ended up swapping out the k-member for a QA1 unit. This is only relevant...

Looking to switch to a QA1 tubular K-member so I sadly need to ditch my spool mounts and pickup a set of earlier style brackets. I can't find them anywhere but Schumacher and they're out of stock/expensive. Let me know if you got a pair, i don't need the rubber as I'm probably going to go with...

Was having issues with crankcase pressure even though I was running a breather and PCV with good vacuum. Started doing a leak-down test and noticed six of my pushrods were noticeably bent. A couple things to note: -There's only 180 miles on the motor -I'm not running a particularly big cam...

Anything for a 70-72 Dart/Demon should work. I'd prefer a stock, lift off hood but I'm not picky if the price/location is right. I'm in VA and willing to travel if shipping is an issue.

Hopefully I'm just being paranoid here but there's a "clanging" noise coming from my carb. I'm not sure if this is normal noise from the valvetrain. I have the stock-style steel rockers arms from Mancini in there and I know they have a good bit of slop in them but I don't remember hearing this...

I completely re-did my brakes with a Wilwood setup and I've ran into quite a few issues. One of them is that pedal springs back after it's been pressed in and comes way too far back. I'm not using the factory brake switch since I have one on my portioning valve that's working great. I took a...

I ordered a brake booster through Advance Auto to go with my Wilwood tandem master cylinder setup. I'm having trouble following the installation instructions. I've seen it stated in a few places to make sure the depth correction plug is in the master cylinder if it's being hooked up to a...

So I bought a Procar Sportsman racing seat with their bracket. I was happy with everything until I got it installed and sat in the car for the first time. My head is scrapping the ceiling and the steering wheel is practically between my knees. I'm 6'3" and pushing close to 250 so I can see how...

Is it possible to use a 73 fender to patch the areas where the 71 fenders mount to the car? I know they aren't interchangeable mostly due to the fender extensions/different hoods but if I can't sell these fenders I would like to at least save some good metal for the places I need it most.

Started converting this thing to a floor shift before I gave up and just went with a universal Borgeson column. Threads got a bit jacked from the steering wheel puller because I'm an idiot and forgot to put a tip on it. Also cut off the tab for the shift linkage. Both issues are easily fixed so...

Located in Harrisonburg VA, can deliver within a few hours if you're willing to put down a deposit. K-Frame stand + Unilift: $400 + shipping. Summit Engine Cradle: $45 + shipping Used one time to install my engine and it comes highly recommended. Was easily one of the smoothest and most...

$25 + shipping

Selling the entire front end of my 73 Dart Sport. The metal and grille is in good shape, the paint is not however. $200 located near Harrisonburg VA, not too interested in shipping but will deliver with a few hours to anyone willing throw down a deposit.

Need a K-frame dolly to roll my engine and trans under my car. Figured I'd check here before dropping $400 on the US Car Tools one.

I know a gasket is needed for the 90 degree adapter but I'm putting my engine together for break-in and was wondering if I'm missing something for the oil filter base plate. Pic: I stole this from FBBO but it shows what I'm talking about. Is there a gasket that goes behind that plate? It...

So how screwed am I? I bought a set of mainfolds to break-in my cam on a run stand. I don't want to ruin the ceramic coating I have on my headers and they won't fit with the truck bellhousing on the stand even with a mini starter. So the header bolts I have won't work obviously and I forgot to...

Looking for a set of cheap exhaust manifolds to break in my 318. I have set of ceramic coated headers I'd rather not risk. It'll be on a run stand so fitment isn't an issue.

So my dad talked me into building a run-stand for my 318 before putting it in the car. I have a 904 from John Cope but we've decided it would be a lot simpler to just throw on a bellhousing and flywheel for the stand. I've seen truck 318 bellhousings on eBay for half the price of A body ones...

So I went with the Wilwood tandem master cylinder and proportioning valve. I cut the stock lines out and don't really care to follow them at all especially for the driver's side. I was thinking of drilling a hole in the driver side inner fender and just running the line straight to the bracket...

It's been bugging me since I bought this manifold. Here is the exact one I bought from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-75763/overview/make/dodge The applications lists 318s from 1967-1991. Perfect since I have a 1974 block and 1989 heads but there's clearly quite a few more...

Looking to sell my project car as a roller and all the parts I've amassed in the process of trying to build it. Build thread for the car located here: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=289880 I'm just going to list everything here with the cost and what I hope to get for it...

I'm looking to buy a solid body to replace the one of my current project. I don't really care how complete it is or how it came from the factory. I already have a solid engine, rear end and front end for an A body, I just need a car that's not rotting away like mine is. Painted would be a plus...

Came out of a 74 Dart with a factory sway bar. They were rebuilt with rubber bushings from a PST kit and the bumpers were replaced as well. They were sandblasted, primed and painted with semi gloss black industrial Rustoleum. I decided to go with tubular control arms from QA1 after doing all the...

This isn't a complete kit but close to it. I decided to go for a little more performance for the front end of my 73 Dart Sport. I picked up a 74 Dart as a donor which is where a lot of these parts come from. I'm looking to get $1000 (Shipped from NoVa) for the whole kit and I'm not overly...

Everything but the Odometer has been working for years. Stopped driving the car 3 years ago and now I'm going with aftermarket gauges so I no longer need this. No chips or cracks. $100 shipped from Northern Va.