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I found a company out of Royse Texas that seems to have a decent amount of experience with small and big block Mopars. It is Republic Custom Engines. I'll drop off my motor next week for a rebuild, and let y'all know. When I spoke with the owner Mike on the phone, he seemed pretty knowledgeable...

Jawbone - Did you end up using either of these shops? I have a '67 Dart that has a 360 in it I need to get refreshed, and new to the Dallas area from Bastrop Texas. I need to find a good machine shop for that and my '55 Pilothouse. Both need engine work.

I was really trying to get away from pouring a bunch of money in right now, but those rockers I have been looking at if I do need to adjust the valve train. I have the new ARP's, and have chased all the threads in the block. I will look into the Smith Bros for pushrods if I need a different...

I will for sure check fitment of all when I put the new heads on. Was just wondering if anyone had knowledge on the specifics from doing the switch. I can assure my cam is not a .6, and not a .5 either. At least it doesn't drive that way.

Nope, I have no idea. Easy driver though. Not any lope really when sitting still.

I have a bit of a dilemma, and need a little tech help; I have blown both head gaskets on a set of stock cast iron heads. After I took them into the machine shop for evaluation I found out that they will be at least $850 - $1200 based on how extensive I want them to repair the questionable...

Peter, the swap is great from the standpoint it responds at the slightest move of the steering wheel. The car hugs the road, and I have a 3 mile road into work that I can push the car pretty hard on corners. It holds tight, and I can expect where it is going to go. Compared to the OEM gearbox...

I live in Bastrop Texas, so it was here locally that I used. The name of the shop is "Alignments by Pete". He is an old-school racer and builder that does minor engine work, and all things related to suspension. He is the only one between all the shops in Bastrop and Austin that I could find...

Okay, 3 month recap. Finally, I have an additional box now put in the car. Quite a bit I learned about this during the process. I would let anyone doing this install know to insure you do not have quick-ratio Pitman and Idler arm. This did not lighten the pressure to turn the steering wheel, but...

Need some help identifying how to reconnect the Rocker panel trim with the car, after the front drivers side wheel decided to go in a different direction than the car. I have straightened the trim piece out enough to reattach, but can't figure out if I should attach the clips to the trim first...

Got busy at work Friday Peter, and couldn't call. Sitting right now waiting for the tow truck, my stainless braided high pressure just blew apart on the power steering pump. I will reach out Monday.

It originally had 3 for caster, but if I remember correctly the instructions say to add 3 more in to caster.

If this is Peter, then I have been speaking with you. You've helped explain a lot of the system, and what I should look for. I appreciated the help. I can still give you a call Peter if you think I am missing something.

Agreed! I was expecting it to drive like my 2020 truck, but the steering is stiffer than that by quite a bit. The whole front end, including all new ball joints, struts, sway bars, etc...that I added with the QA1 setup have maybe 1,000 miles on it. It might loosen up a bit in time, but I am sure...

Camber left front -1.2, and Camber right front -.9. Caster is 6.4 on the left, and 6.8 on the right. Toe is .15 on both sides. The front end guy seemed to think the additional force to turn it may be attributed to the QA1 front end I installed. It handles great, just more work to steer it.

I did this, and it doesn't appear to be binding anywhere. It moves smooth (no catching spot) from side to side, just harder to turn then I would have thought. I had the same idea that something was stopping it from turning easier, but I can't find anything along those lines. I just got it back...

That was the best way I could describe it. I will work on my descriptive English. Alignment is tight. Too stiff to return to center.

Yes it worked good enough with the last box. Was hard to tell though with so much slop, but felt pretty normal.

It is a Saginaw Pump from March Pulleys.

Was really looking forward to it, but not real pleased with the results. I can live with it, but didn't blow my mind. Glad yours is good.

Great, thanks for taking the time to post. Huge help.

To give some background to the changes to the suspension and steering on the car; The complete front suspension has been switched over to QA1, including the K Member. The accessories on the front of the engine are March ribbed belt pulleys, and the accessories are March as well, which includes...

Thanks so much, I appreciate the help.

Yep, you are correct, I could have elaborated more. At the same point, I didn't really want to make my post 4 pages long. The burnt contact points on the distributor cap were due to a replacement ignition module that a mechanic in my area installed, when the previous one smoked while they were...

Yep, in agreement on the timing issue. Didn't think about the arcing wires, but good place to start with those. Thanks.

I have been struggling a bit lately as I think my linkage (really my bushings) are shot for my floor mounted shifter in my '67 Dart with a 904 tranny. Does anyone know if someone produces bushings for this setup? I have not had luck finding any.

I had been doing diagnostics, and even relenting and taking it to the shops. When I realized after I got it back from one of the shops, and they told me the carb was bad. Took apart the whole ignition system and realized the distributor cap was in bad shape. Not sure where the thought that I was...

agree for the KISS theory. I am sure once i get it figured out i will kick myself. as far as the oil goes, i have been running mobile 1 in it since i bought it.

I have put the old carb back on as well, since I agree, this may have been the issue. That did not help either.

Unfortunately I cannot get it to run without the backfiring and flames shortly after it fires up. I am not really able to diagnose the engine while running. The vacuum problem i thought of as well, but again the engine was running previously, then this problem started. Even after all the fuel...