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So do I.

You'll love the way it shifts like butter at 7000. Same setup here behind my RB stroker in a 67 'Cuda. It'll take some practice to street drive it smoothly if you want, but it can be done. Mines going on Drag Week in Sept. ~1000 mile cruise between 4 tracks. :mrgreen...

Pump gas RB big block, 2" TTI headers, 3" TTI H-pipe, 3" Ultra-flows dumped at the rear axle. https://www.flickr.com/photos/21087798@N05/17540835382/in/album-72157606799820203/

Now that's stepping up the program! Looks like a great piece Darryl. Bet you're excited to get it running in the Dart. Now that HRDW has announced the tracks, are you considering going this year? I already have my motel reservations made and vacation scheduled at work. My engine is...

With a clutch car, better to use bias ply slicks as opposed to radial. Radials do not recover from spinning on the hit as well as bias ply. With a non-adjustable clutch, which I assume you have, try to get a few turns of the bias ply tire on the hit to save drive train parts. Something needs...

Here are some pics of the out of the box TTI Z-bar installed on my '67 Cuda. Well made piece that required a small tweak to get it to clear the edge of the starter. I basically straightened out the bends. This is a RB block, TTI 2" headers, Quicktime bellhousing, and an 833 trans. Works...

That is an awesome car and very nice runs! Nines are in your future. :cheers: What's the rear end ratio and tire size? Bias ply or radial? What rear shock do you have? Spool? I just got my project back from the chassis shop getting the perches welded after setting the pinion angle...

Here's an article on the difference and how to mod your clutch pedal for better ratio. It helps especially when power shifting. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mopp_1012_four_speed_a_body_clutch_pedal_adjustment/ Here's a pic of mine with the modification.

I have one on my car. You can see the back side of it installed in the pic. It fits in the slot in the support structure. It's just a rubber bumper that the clutch pedal hits at the top when released. That way you don't have metal to metal contact with the support brace. If you run a...

I used this page as a guide. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/wopen.shtml

Thank you so much all for the quick responses. I really appreciate it. This board and it's members are awesome. I have a deal in the works and hopefully I'll be moving forward with the 'Cuda very soon. Thanks again,

I need a 67-72 A-body transmission cross member and a 68-72 steering drag link (center Link) to complete my 67 Cuda project. I bought the car as a basket case and these are missing. Please PM me with your asking price. Thanks much,

Thank you for the kind words. Actually, I work for an aerospace company as an electrical test engineer, so I can't help myself.

A little update. I'm knee deep in wiring. I cleaned up and thoroughly checked over the stock wiring harnesses and connectors. They were in great shape, so I re-used them. I did all the little updates, like the ammeter and main power circuit bypass to make sure. I've built all new harnesses...

Apologies if this has been posted before. Made me smile... DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had...

Somewhere in there I added the grille and installed the back window with the '68 trim mouldings. I used a template I found on here a few months back to drill the clip holes. A big thanks to whoever posted it! It was a big help.

AR Eng sells an alternator mount for the engine plate that mounts it low close where the fuel pump was. So I get it installed only find out the lower adj bar hits the K-frame on the rise for the strut rod mount. :banghead: After walking away for a few days, I decided I didn't have the fab...

When the engine plate showed up, I figured I better add the headers, steering box, and draglink to the mix. I had to grind on the steering box a bit, just knocked off a few sharp corners. Torsion bars will be very tight, as is the steering column. Draglink is worst than I thought, engine...

I decided to paint the valve covers with a black wrinkle finish. I think it adds a little more contrast to the engine. While I had the valve covers off, I was admiring the T&D offset rocker arms that Brian @ IMM engines spec'd. Quality pieces. I tried to mock up the spool mount '74 K-Frame...

When I bought the rear end years ago, I was told it was narrowed for a mini-tubbed A body. Well it's dead on. A 10" wheel with a 5.5 backspace fits perfect. That was the good news. The bad news was that the wheel hits the rear disc brake caliper. :banghead: So...off comes my new 12"...

They are welded to the frame using an angle cut piece of 2x3 tubing left over from the frame connectors. The angle is found by running a line from the front spring eye to the rear spring eye per AFCO's instructions.

It's been a good week in the shop. Got the rear end and suspension in and the wheel back space measured. Now I can order the wheels. :supz: At least one end is almost a roller. The rear end is just clamped to the spring for now. Pinion angle will be set when all the weight is in the car.

1. See post #51, top of page 3. 2. Because that's what Caltracs are designed for. I bought -1" ride height to lower the rear due to the taller tire (29") I'll be using. 3. I have a friend that writes for SEMA Action Network (SAN). He got me a ticket.

On the tail panel, I used reflective maroon tape to simulate a continuous bar tail light on both top and bottom to fill in the horse shoe. Here's a pic to show it normal and one with the lights off so the camera flash shows the light reflection as seen from behind at night. I think the effect is...

The engine is a 540" stoker based on a MP mega block, 4.50" bore, 4.25" stroke. Indy Big EZ-1 heads, 325cc intake port volume, cleaned up by Brain Hafliger at IMM engines. Brian spec'd a Comp solid roller for pump gas, 268@.050, around .700" lift at the valve. I'm looking for 10.0's at...

Thank you all for the kind and encouraging comments. I really appreciate them. Keeps me motivated. :D

I've been dabbling at it when I have time. I have to measure for wheel backspace and get the wheels on order.

Awesome! Thanks much for the quick reply! PM sent.

Hi all, I need the piece pictured. It mounts to the front rail and the cast alum. piece that hold the quarter window. As you can see mines broken and one roller is missing, probably because the window was bound up and someone tried to force it. I hope someone has this piece. Please let me...

A little progress this weekend. Starting to look like a car again.