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The bearing in the pump is a Japanese 30mm koyo BTW.

Yes thanks.

:BangHead:Crap! I broke the housing. Well this retard will be down grading to a 273 cast steel pump. But I will not rest until I find out were this pump comes from. It could be for a marine application.

Exactly, this is really weird

It's leaking from the (pee hole) on the underside. I need the shorter pump or the fan will hit the radiator, and driver side inlet. And I'm extremely curious what this old speed part is. I have never seen any other like it.

It's hard to see, but I think it's 80 in the circle

Hello everyone. I have a short pre 69 style 273 water pump in my street/racecar that start leaking. It's about 4.8" long and made of ALUMINIUM with 8 blade impeller. Need help to identify this pump. Is it an old 70s race piece?? Can't find any info.

This may work 1964 & Earlier Ball Head Replacement Shafts

Hello the hood in the picture is for a Dodge Dart

well I have a manual trans and no linelock so the car will jump forward a little bit before I can hold it still, and it´s no water there(very small waterbox). I have to almost floor it to hold the rpm between 6000-6900. I can´t hold it perfekt still and car want´s to move forwards, this is in 2...

I have assemble all of my engines my self. The only ting I can´t do my self is honing and balance a rotating assembly. I now have an other shop that doing all of my honing and balancing. And my tune was not off ( no pinging, 12.2-12.7 af. ,plugs ok, timing 35 deg) I strongly think that all of...

Okey gents, lets sum up. The causes: 1. Bores out of roundness ( lack of torque plate? ) All the scars and bold spots. 2. Gas washed the oil of the walls ( flooded last burnout ) 3. Discolour on walls made by heat (no oil on walls ) and chemicals in octane boosters. 4. Dents with...

Hello Motorworks. Don't know if a torque plate was used but yes the bores is out of roundness big time. The idle af. has always been at 13-13.5 and the plugs looked good. af. at full throttle 12.2 -12.7 .

Yes the car did flooded the last time out and only fired on 5-6 cylinders after the burnout, but it cleared right up just before I staged. Mmmm sounds like the last burnout nailed the last nail in the coffin. Never took the sparkplugs out on the track, I just loaded it up and went home, but...

Okey I finally took the thumb out of my a## and checked the engine block. I took a Hammer and cracked the cylinder walls in big pieces. The thinnest spot I could find was 0.110 I then took my new sonic tester and calibrated it with the cylinder wall pieces so it would be as accurate as...

Hello pompis, I have a full rotating assambly for sale that´s balanced and only needs new rings and bearings if you interested. forged crank eagle h rods kb 167

Exactly what I was thinking ! If I don´t find a sonic tester I will buy one just to find out. The walls also has bold spots with no cross mark left all over the place, so it has to be extremly thin and out of roundness.

I would like to thank everybody for the great input and theory:s so far. This is great!! :prayer:

There were no rust pitts in the bores before and yes the block is junk, but what caused this to occurred??

no the walls was not checked before and the engine has never run hot

No my instructions says it should be the same, it also says so on kb:s homepage.

Yes it´s an illusion :lol:

No smoke, no noise, no moisture in oil. Inside of valve covers look like new, just started to run bad times at the last race

Yes, has been running them for 8 years but the engine has only gone about 4 competitions since last hone and only 5 runs since last time I looked at the bores

Produced in 1983, hmm I gona see if I can get a hold of an ultrasonic tester, I´m very curious, so I have to go to the bottom of this issue :toothy7:

Do you guys think to much rpm could do this. The last run at the stip was the worst, the engine was very hard to start before I was going to warm the tires ( has never been hard to start before ) I started in 2 gear and reved it to 7000rpm as usual and after the burnout the engine started to run...

I agree with you, It´s almost like the cylinder walls has been "flexing" under full load or something if you now what I mean.

It was like 8 years ago the block was bored and it has only been honed once after that, The cylinder walls did not look like this the last teardown(one year ago and only a couple of races and I know the block is junk, I just trying to figure out what caused the discoulor and the wierd big dents...

some more picures: This has to be detonations just over the ridges that was caused by the top ring but I can be wrong :scratch: [/URL][/IMG] annother one [/URL][/IMG] And one more on the piston [/URL][/IMG]

Okey just got back from my shop and I measured the bores and pistons. piston skirt : 3.9377 - 3.9382 bores : 3.9401 - 3.9425 ( Some of the bores was out of round 0.0015 ) Ring gap average: 0.019 - 0.023 ( both first and second ring ) So the clearance is between 0.0019 and 0.0048...