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Too much clutch is what will kill that 23spl, not a glued track or sticky tires. Not sure which McLeod twin you have, but even the least rated version will need some hit softening for your application. Grant

I have actually used a single modified pcv valve as a crankcase vacuum source for over 10 years now. Street driven 355sbc that occasionally sees 8600rpm, but with a sealed crankcase that does not draw external air. Engine is sealed up pretty good, not much actual flow velocity to carry oil out...

Grant

If you are going to the trouble of fabbing up a pinion snubber, for just a little more effort you could be different and put a torque arm on it. Small shackle on the front of the TA eliminates suspension bind and you still have street friendly articulation. I've built hundreds of TA's over the...

I've designed a few K-members, here's one that I used to produce that allowed putting SBC/LS engines where a rotary used to be in the '93-up Mazda RX-7. Made mostly from 14ga sheet, lighter than the factory unit but plenty durable for autocross and road racing. Pretty easy to make a jig for as...

I installed a crank trigger on my street/strip small block, but also kept the MSD distributor trigger as a back-up. Now that I can switch back and forth between triggers, I could put a curve back in the distributor for street use if I wanted to. Grant

I worked for Al's Auto Supply back in the 70's, the chain sponsored Hank Johnson at the time. We had a Mr Gasket shifter display over by the speed parts wall, always someone over there banging gears with the V-gate. Displays like that were a big part of the speed shop atmosphere at the time :)...

When H pattern ergonomics is right, there is no V-gate advantage. For me the deciding factor was my H pattern shifter is lighter than a V-gate. I also tightened the slider travel distance up when I installed my faceplates, only 2" total throw distance at the shift knob :) Here's the slider...

No experience here, but it's hard to imagine accel pump shear plates helping a WOT 2-step launch. I think they would improve street/strip driveability, especially with a big carb, clutch pedal, and not much vacuum. Grant

Might be Dave Lolly, I believe he lives in Burlington which is south of Bellingham. Drives a red/white wing car to the friday nite car show at the Burgermaster drive-in in Mt Vernon. Grant

I've got quite a few SEGA customers :) Grant

Assuming proper traction, the clutch's engagement rate is what determines how much peak impact energy your drivetrain parts will see. A clutch that takes 0.15 sec to pull the engine down after a WOT shift will impact the drivetrain roughly twice as hard as a clutch that pulls the engine down in...

On the other side of the stick shift spectrum, when clutch hit is controlled by a 'tamer stiff walls are not needed. Also saves you the added cost of running tubes. The ability to run higher tire pressure in-turn reduces the need for screws, less rolling resistance is an added bonus. Not many...

The drum and disc Explorer axles are the same length. With two short side axles the rear will be 56-1/2" axle flange/axle flange. Drums are 1/8" thick and will add 1/4" overall, discs are thicker and will add 1/2" overall. All 5x4-1/2" lug pattern. All Explorer 8.8's had 31spl axles and came...

Although some guys have been known to adjust the 'tamers near the starting line when strapped in, it might be possible to add an arm somewhere in the linkage and locate the cylinder more vertical up by the firewall. Although out of reach for a strapped in driver, it would still be more...

Back in 1975, i bought a new Hapco clutch for my '65 Chevelle from my local hero's, at the time the F/MP national record holder... Les sold me a 3300lb B&B with an organic disc for my tunnel rammed 301 with a Muncie and 4.88's. Bog city with an aluminum flywheel, but I was still a happy high...

I don't have a problem with the different friction materials, or even the dual friction disc, they just need to be matched with a pressure plate that provides an appropriate amount of clamp pressure for that friction material and application. The problem is the typical aftermarket manufacturer...

I think modern clutch control would improve the clutch/automatic quite a bit, but the splits you get from 4 or 5 gears would still come out ahead of a 3spd. Grant

Like I said before, a clutch rating is just a quick/dirty way for the typical aftermarket clutch buying customer to feel assured that the clutch they buy isn't going to slip against the torque their engine is capable of. From the perspective of the aftermarket clutch manufacturer, if the clutch...

Thanks for the feedback guys! Grant

Using your brakes also creates heat and shortens brake life, but as long as you do not overheat them they will last a good long while. Same with a clutch. We are talking extending slip time a few tenths of a second, which can make a huge difference in terms of impact on the drivetrain. If you...

The focus of the post isn't component weight, it's about why you should avoid overkill amounts of clutch clamp pressure. It's not uncommon to see a car with an overkill clutch shave half a second off it's et by installing a more suitable clutch, might have to add 75-100hp to net a similar gain...

I do make the ClutchTamer, but the advice above applies to any manual trans car with or without a 'tamer. The better matched the clutch is to the application, the quicker it will be and the less likely it will be to break parts. Grant

A clutch rating is just a quick/dirty way for the typical aftermarket clutch buying customer to feel assured that the clutch they buy isn't going to slip against the torque their engine is capable of. From the perspective of the aftermarket clutch manufacturer, if the clutch breaks something...

Back when I was reworking Saginaw 4spds, I cut a large hole in the top of an extra main case so that I could verify where the installed side cover/forks placed the sliders, then re-worked the detent combs to my satisfaction. Might be an eye opener if you have a spare main case to sacrifice. Grant

Here's a comparison of two sbc engines of mine that were installed in a street/strip manual 4spd car, only significant difference between them was different internal component weights... ...Engine #1 was 4.04" x 3.48" w/ 5.7" i-beam rods, hypers with gas ported spacers and 1.2mm rings (12lb...

My Hurst stick is welded at the top too, it snapped right off in the heat of battle! If it were an H pattern I would want the shifter handle more offset to the right, but for an in-line Ramrod it should be fine. Looks good overall, but I would want to move that driveline loop a little farther...

Here's a graph of an actual stick shift pass with calculated/averaged driveshaft torque added to the graph... Here's a link to my page that explains how I came up with the above torque numbers... ClutchTamer.com Grant

On my Toploader applications, I move rail detent notches when I install faceplates to reflect the shorter slider travel. Much the same as with the Saginaw, a steeper notch wall in the rail makes it much harder to pull a Toploader out of gear. The Toploaders also have different shaped ends on the...

The parts that reach down to the shift levers have vertical slots, the shift levers themselves have threaded studs installed to engage the slots. Grant