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Seems I didn't let the carb heat soak enough either. Much reduced after the carb gets warm from a longer drive (phenolic spacer) I am also running an open plenum spacer on a dual plane manifold. I might try a half inch 4 hole to replace it and see if that helps. Engine is coming out for...

Okay, floats level good. Idle transfers a bit more than square. I took it for a drive again, same idle dip issues and there is a stumble if I'm just cruising and stomp it, like very aggressively. And not a real bad one. Backed idle screws out a bit, and it seems to have fixed that drop...

Thanks for all the advice. This carb should be close to what it needs in terms of cfm. The factory carb was an 1840c 600cfm. But made for emissions with a 2 stage power valve. Car will just chug along at low speed no bucking. I can mat it pretty low rpm in 1st or 2nd rolling without any...

Thanks for the read suggestion. I'll have to get some longer hose for the vacuum Guage and route it into the car, then go for a drive. Running out of time this season though. Going in for a new rag top pretty quick here.

Okay. I read the calculation was idle vacuum divided in half minus 2. I didn't know there was a giant way to set them. I'll look it up Besides the idle dip when I push the clutch in coming to a stop the car doesn't seem to be overly rich?

Yeah. I won't touch that. It's the stock 6.5 and the car goes like he'll otherwise. Just this small idle dip issue.

Also, let me get my timing light on it to confirm tomorrow also. I know its a bit more than the factory 10*, but not a lot. I wanted the small idle speed increase on the old and tired reverse idle screw 4160 without opening the butterfly more. Why bigger power valve?

1984 was was the first year of efi believe. But it was tbi and not very good(3 years later brought multiport which was much better) It was an option. And worked with almost nothing but stock components. Stock h.o. cam is pretty mild, more than a standard firing order 302 though. But nothing...

Yup. Bone stock 83 h.o. (as h.o. as 1983 gets, but hey it was 180hp up from 145 a few years prior)tree oh two except equal length shorties, 2.5 mandrel bent pipes and thrush mufflers with a H pipe. 18.5 or 19. Depends what Guage I grab from the drawer.. cheapies... Borg warner t5 in it...

Yup. Vac advance is off of spark port. Secondaries are closed. Factory pcv still on and confirmed working. It goes like stink, pump shot works good. (Had to change to the holley squirters with the tubes on them) cruises nice. Smog was removed, including air pump. 1983 galloping horse...

also, we are bit past the factory recommend 10* at idle. To about 13 I think. (Old emissions 4160 that was tired) ill spin it back to factory.

Thanks for the help!

Okay. I'll check the level again. I think it was just under the little viewing port when I checked it. So your saying possibly a bit more throttle screw to open them a bit? Then back off timing to lower the idle? The ports aren't totally square but they aren't alarmingly exposed either

friends car. Not Mopar. But helping cause I like v8s. Holley 4160 (new). Stock small block... No emissions stuff. Trying to get idle dialed in. Steady vac at about 19. Idles pretty consistent. But when you clutch in coming to a light, the idle dips low and comes back up. Is that...

Old folks home I did a nurse call at had a nat gas 225 generator in the basement. Electrical school I attended as a student had a 318 generator which we were replacing at the time with a big Caterpillar.

Good way to get your feet wet is a clean old 4 door with a slant or 318. It wont be somebody's haggard up rusty and rotten **** box you paid 200$ with big hopes and dreams..which usually ends up as a project that sits for the next 50 years. I bought a pretty clean 71 more door valiant with a...

I expected to not do 3 sets that quickly...

Keep in mind...you will do a lot of tie rod ends...ball joints...and the rear bushings will seize up... I had 3 sets of tie rod ends done in 70,000 kms. Out of warranty I finally bought better aftermarket ones I can grease...and they are still good. Car only has 125000 kms on it...

100%

also check you wires and coil. Car would do similar. Hv lwad from coil would arc occasionally to lv posts on coil. Hv lead wasnt seated in there properly. Easy to see at night

Im not at all. Hell, i own a slant six.

The civic will do that regardless. New ones are turbo now...a stockish 360 probably isnt safe.

Transmission is also needed. Slant trans is no go. Might have a 7.25 rear...good luch with a 360 and that diff...powersteering stuff might be different too.

All the naysayers on here will tell you how awful the fuel distribution is. You need mpfi and megasquirt!!! Need!!!!! Nice work. Id love one of those myself. Great for a daily!

I shot a glock 22...i think it was a 22. In 40sw. I loved it. Slick. My range toy (canada) is a ruger p85 in 9mm. Cheap, built like a tank and accurate. And....a 9mm chinese tokarev. Merely a fun relic...

Nice...i keep wanting to also.

Depends what you are after. excellent reports on fi tech tbi used on slants. For a mild slant im sure tbi would suffice. The extreme end of n/a and force fed probably needs port.

In fall and spring i cover part of the rad with cardboard. Much better heat!

Remflex gasket!!!

When my dad was a kid, their grain truck was a 64 d300 with a slant and that new process. Neighbours had the same, but with a 318 poly. Theyd always race to the grain elevator with a full load then home. But that poly had to stop to refuel. The slant, albeit 50mph full load, always got...