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I've only seen 5 Formula S droptop cars total which included 67-69. Only one was a 68 at a Mopar car show (Capital City Mopar's in Sacramento). Own this car for 15 years. Thanks for the replies.

I think I'm going to sell my 68 Barracuda FS drop top. I know that a total of 193 were built. Mine is a 340 and there were BB also built, I think a few Hemi also. How can I find out what the actual amount of these Formula S cars are still out there?

like to put some slotted on. Recommendation where to purchase. I will be installing new bearings, pads, ect..

Have to replace my rotors 69 Barracuda. These old rotors are Century made and both sides are 7/16 x 20 right hand thread studs w/small bolt at 11". Not sure if these hubs are Century or original, being that driver side is now right hand thread studs. Can't locate new rotors with hubs. Do I need...

Mine is red in color. Shop manual recommends AQ-ATF suffix A Dextron.

The top up and latched will be and easy fix. Just thought the top had to be in the well. thx

Sounds like leave the top up and latch it to do the repairs. That's to easy. Thought I had to leave the top in the well. Thx

That's all out. Pop up the motor grommets to get access to the fill hole, removed hose brackets. I think what has to be done is raise the cover up just enough to get to the power link (top connection) pull the clip and remove the pin then disconnect the lower mount and pull the cylinder out...

My shop manual doesn't explain the process removing the cylinders. When the top is down in the well not much access to remove the power link clip to pull the top pin out. Any information on a manual or step process would be helpful. Going to purchase the cylinders and replace the hoses from Classic.

I know this is an old post. Trying to understand how to remove the cylinders. The top must be in the well to release all pressure. But what is the trick to removing the power link clip to slid out the retaining pin, not much access. The lower pin also is tight, might have to remove the mounting...

Thanks for your information.

Correct. The way I installed the distributor is the only way it will work tower 5 o clock. The vacuum connect to the distributor is so close to the fire wall....it can't be set at 6 o clock....it will hit the fire wall. I'm pretty sure it set it right years ago. This weekend I'll double check...

I think your right. Its been a while ( 6 years or so ) but I did notice some black marks on the balancer...I think I put there finding TDC. What is timing tape.

Not sure on the balancer. Purchased the car with this set up. I do understand that timing tabs did switch over from pass to driver (1969/70 maybe). The way my water pump/power steering are located driver side. No way a timing tab would work on the driver side.

No.... driver side first plug.... 1357. Passenger side 2468. The distributor can only slide in one or two ways correct? Not like a Chevy having to line up the splines.

Your input has helped me. This is a warranty 340 block...no casting numbers on the front of the block. The casting numbers 2780930 are located on the block driver side. If I remember there were casting dates 69/70 on the block. The engine has the MSD ignition and the timing tab is on the...

Trying to set timing....the #1 spark plug wire on the cap is at 3 o'clock and I think its should be at 6 o'clock. When I use the timing light the reading on the blancher reads. 1 .8 0 right on the 5 degrees mark. I cant see the one straight line on the balancer at all. Do I need to...

thanks

Is there a vacuum line off the intake manifold/carb. that connects the transmission? I thought it just has throttle and gearshift linkage.

I have a 1968 Formula S Barracuda convertible. I do have the fender tag and the vin number matches with the transmission. Can't locate the engine vin number, did find a casting numbers 1969 and the car came with a 1969 stock intake manifold. I think its a warranty block? Can I obtain any info...

Nice set of seat belts. Not sure what they fit as they will not work in my 1968 Barracuda Formula S droptop. The color I think is emerald gold the same as mine. These were part of the purchase of the car along with other boxes of parts the previous owner purchased 15 years ago and sure they are...

Where is this held at?

That's a nice sheild...might have to fabricate some thing. Thx Steve.

Just got my 68 Barracuda brakes completed and the car finally stops. Had to replace the distribution block ( inlinetube ) perfect match. Anyways the brake lines from the master cylinder get hot from the exhaust manifold. I have power brakes and the booster and master cylinder above/side of the...

Need the 8 retainers for the lower trunk lid panel for 68 Barracuda. These retainers are different from the upper panel. They look the same, but the lower retainers are just a little larger. Chris

Looking for the heater hose bracket that mounts next to the alternator/intake manifold for a small block. Chris

Yea, that's the one bought. Blk250. Has the piston built inside the block. The tech. team said it works just fine on the 68, even through it's stated 69-74. The other block Blk245 needs a exterior metering/proportioning block.

www.inlinetube.com 586 532-1338 Shipped out of Michigan to Nor-Cal total cost $106.00 UPS ground.

Located the distribution block for A-Body 67-74 at Inlinetube. They manufactor the exact factory replacement BLK250 for disc/drum. No adjustment to brake lines bolt right in. Has anybody tried this block? I have the PL100 GM proprotioning valve that has been used for awhile as a...

Hey, Just bought a proportioning valve from Master Brake. Not the same as the one on my 68 Barracuda. It will work with a few tube bending and fittings and mounting. Lots of work in a tight area. Wanted to know if there is a closer match to the original valve out there. Just thought I would...