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I am running a 100 Amp alternator with the original ammeter in my 67 Charger. Beefed up wires alternator-ammeter-battery. Function is faultless, all works very well. The original ammeter is a very sturdy piece of engineering and can handle a lot of current.

Agreed, and the original amp gauge is a good part (at least in my B-body :D), with clean and tight connections it can handle a lot of amps without a problem. Myself I have a modern 100 Amp alternator feeding thru the original amp gauge, upgraded wiring though.

Without knowing the detailed specs of the coils I would say that you want as much current in the primary winding as your ignition system can feed. I.e. as low a resistance as possible without burning things. More current means more energy. Regarding the secondary winding I am guessing that more...

Last winter I carefully calibrated my 67 tach together with my ECU and the MSD tach adapter. The old tach was set to show correct revs...But, now with everything in the car, the tach suddenly reads significantly higher rpms...reason so far unknown...

It would be interesting to understand what difficulties you had with the Dodge Dakota starter? Was it a real Nippon Denso or was it a cheap copy? I've broken 2 of the cheap copies so far in my hi-compression 512. Now I'm installing a used Dodge Dakota/Nippon Denso to sort out eventual engine...

That is a pretty piece of engineering! :)

I don't have a good experience of these...they engage only half the width of the ring gear. Both the original BB starter, Powermaster Ultra Torque and the original Dodge Dakota type Nippon Denso engage the full width of the ring gear. They throw out the drive gear 5 millimeters more than the...

The formula is correct but a voltmeter doesn't tell you if you have any Amps in your system. Amps are charging the battery, it's not the voltage.

The voltmeter gives you only an indication that your system might be charging the battery...while the ammeter shows you if it actually is charging or discharging...keep the ammeter. Make sure you have tight connections, make sure sure your cables are firmly tied to a fixed point and you'll be fine.

Also in Europe you have to choose carefully if you want oil with reasonable levels of zinc...it's a bit of work to find a good one (i.e. reading lots of data sheets...).

I agree. It's best to finish the current project and then start thinking about next steps. As you say, the fuel injection will add complexity in both the electronics/software and in the car itself, and it will add quite some cost and work for the end user.

Yes, very nice work on both the electronics and the mechanical. Have you considered controlling fuel injection in batch mode? I guess it would require only one additional output (and driver stage), and would add significant possibilities.

Yes, MS3X for full sequential injection and ignition. The cam sensor consists of a round piece of thick aluminum, on which the half-circle piece of soft sheet metal is mounted. The Hall-sensor has a pullup-resistor, and the piece of sheet metal is mounted in a position giving a high signal (5...

Interesting project! I hope it's ok that I post a few pics showing my homework... I'm using the D585 coils and converted the original distributor to a cam sensor using simple home tools. For the crank sensor I welded a tooth wheel to the pulley, using a VR-type sensor. The cam sensor uses a...