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Bracket '65 Dart. Ford "Ealinore" scoop.

I believe that he was in east Tennessee and raced a 1965 Coronet wagon with a 273 2bbl. National record holder, if I remember correctly.

A couple of pics from my drag car.

I have a very low budget 360LA in my bracket car. It was just a junkyard motor that I did some headwork on as well as a cam change and 4bbl intake with holley. The thing is pretty tired now but has been running 7.90's in the 1/8th mile. Here's my question....I see junkyard 5.9 engines available...

I am considering looking for a junkyard 360 for my budget bracket Dart (no street driving). I'll be replacing a really tired '74 360. Except for using my intake, headers, and distributor, plug and play would be ideal. What would be the best year(s) to look for?

There is a car show coming up this weekend in Big Sandy Tennessee. It has been pretty big in the past. I won't have my '65 A body race car there, but I will be entering my '65 B body. Big Sandy is south of Paris. Here's a link; http://srfproductions.com/events/

Are you sure that it needs rebuilding? They seem to last forever unless dry. Maybe just a boot replacement? Seems that some folks have used snap together CV toint boots, but I can't remember which ones.

Are you sure that it needs rebuilding? They seem to last forever unless they go dry. Maybe just a new boot setup. I've heard of folks using snap together CV joint boots but I dont know which ones.

About 200 miles for me from Camden. By the way, CudaChick was good enough to show me her car as well as her husband's rides last year. I give her a lot of credit for running an honest shop as she told me that she did not think that I would be happy with powder coating my '65 Coronet headlight...

Factory high stall should get it for you. This is a non weighted one. They have the weighted ones also. I get about 2400 behind a mild 360. http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/384.html

My race only car weighs 2900 w/driver. Really low budget, but pretty light. Currently have XHD springs with the rear clamps removed. I'd like to go to SS springs in order to help my 60'. I imagine 2800# is the way to fly. Who has the best price?

What RPM are you going through the traps at? Need more gear? Just asking. Beautiful ride.

If you are happy with the street manners of your current setup, but want more for the track, why not think about nitrous with small 50HP jets to meet your goal? A lot less work and a lot less money. Because you are only looking for a small HP increase, you wouldn't even need to upgrade your fuel...

I have a neighbor that doees exactly that........with one exception. He uses a 12 gauge instead of a pitchfork. He steps down on the raised earth, sits in a chair and watches for movement and boom. Actually blows them out of the ground. He got rid of all the moles at his place and mine that way.

One of the mods recomended is to relocate the breather to the rear of the trans. Anybody done this? Did you use a rear end type breather or tap for a fitting and run steel tubing or hose to a catch can up front?

Did you remove the thrust block from the center section? It is necessary to do so when changing to the "green" bearing setup.

If you are just looking for a stock rebuild kit to use behind a slant, the kit is less than $100.00 shipped. http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=12006C&Category_Code=A904kits In my particular case, I need something to address any weak links...

Nice looking part. Going on the list. Thank you.

I'm running an 8 3/4 with 4.56 and a spool. I know that everything being equal, the 904 is supposed to be quicker because it is lighter and requires about 20 HP less to turn. 904 rebuilds are new to me, which prompted the original question. I know that a lot of the Hemi racers use 904 internals...

I just ordered a master deluxe rebuild kit which has red eagle clutches, kolene steels, a solid eagle band. I also ordered a 4.2 lever and a cheetah reverse manual valve body. Are there any inherently weak points that I should take care of while the trans is down. It is in a drag only car, 2900#...

I have fiberglass bumpers on my '65 from WS fiberglass. I also have their hood which was a fair fit. The bumpers turned out to be '66 units. Quite a bit different than the '65s. Good enough for the race car though. Attached, you can see the fit on the '65.

It looks like the consesus is about $150.00 value.

Rather than charging a fellow racer too much, I think that I am just going to use them on my test stand. Thanks for the input.

I have a set of Spitfire headers that a fellow early A body racer is interested in. He offered $300.00. I went through a lot to get these things and I really don't know how to price them. Don't want to take him to the cleaners, but I don't want to short change myself either. The headers that I...

I've got a 440 with 2536430-6 and 8-29-67 cast on the right side. I bought the engine years ago for the crank only. The rest of it is still together including the heads.

I seriously doubt that they will fit without major mods.

You definitely need the '64-'66 exhaust manifolds and the 90* oil filter adapter.

I have a complete 5.13 suregrip in an 8 3/4 center section. It was great at the strip, but I would not run it on the street. Still have it if you are interested.

I have a really nice original steel dash that I removed from my '65 Dart race car. No instruments, just the dash. If someone can use it for their project, just come and get it. I am in west Tennessee, north of I-40. No, I don't want to go through the hassle of shipping. Just wanting to help out...

I tried the available hemi scoops, but they looked way to big on my car. I installed a fox body mustang scoop and put the hemi type stud in the middle. It fits between the two indentations on the '65 hood.