Search results for query: *

I’m serious if it’s legit and you want some lettuce ! Let’s talk and make a deal ASAP ! I am ready and up til midnite tonite on west coast ! No BS

free shipping still apply cuz I’ll buy it tonite for 1700 free ship . No TC correct ?

as far as exhaust? TTI, TTI AND TTI! oh,and of course TTI!

No worries bro .

Removing EPR Valves when Converting Your Mopar to 134a | Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks. found this for you . Makes sense . havent heard your noise so I really don't know what you are chasing ,if it's light then perhaps this valve is cycling rapidly...

And as I previously said I've seen compressors in my career that make noise at different speeds whether it be idle or higher Rpms . The methods I described previously will detect a low side starvation problem ... Gauges will show this along with temp readings along the suction pipe from EVAP to...

I pm d you bro to send me the vid of this noise. Btw you said this compressor was built for 134a but you swapped a r12 EPR probably not the best idea but ... Hey if you think it's the EPR starving the compressor just run it without it and check bro. It's certainly not going to hurt anything to...

Try another way to send vid , I'll pm u bro.

Unfortunately I don't have a yahoo account my friend. Video link immediately asks for login. You could run the compressor BRIEFLY with no charge since there is always oil in the compressor . But what will that determine ? If the noise goes away .... Ok ..there is no gas load on the compressor...

Was the engine surging at idle ? Like rpm hunting ..... Or are you saying it surged at cruise ? Like you physically feel an extra load coming and going while at speed ( as if you were lightly applying brakes or like when an air conditioner kicks on and off on a smaller engine)???

Sorry for double post

EPR valve EVAP PRESSURE REGULATOR . OK well was the nylon screen filter visible ? When u swapped? Although any restriction at this valve should show in temps and pressures . Looks like you short charged it properly to compensate for 134a , pressures look fine .(should correspond to about 38...

EVAP PRESSURE REGULATOR valve ... Ok . There should be a screen on those made of nylon to protect compressor at the suc inlet from any debris in system . Was that visible with any restrictions or perhaps torn / degraded so basically open ? Although you seemed to have short charged it correctly...

Manifold vacuum would be giving you full VAC advance at idle . Part throttle cruise is mainly where vac advance "works" by design.

Manifold vacuum sources allow vacuum to advance at idle with throttle plates closed AND as they open . Ported vacuum sources give no vaccum signal at idle with plates closed and only after they open enuff to expose the "port" .

Picture of the valve? York compressor ? What happened to the original compressor..what was reason for R&R? Was it R12 or previously converted to R134a.? Did you flush and evacuate system prior to assembly of current system ? and what other components did you replace? You say it blows cold but...

Certainly. Yeah I pm,d him reference materials as well along with some long winded explanations , it'll all work out . How can it not with the wealth of experience here right!

Great info of which I am totally aware and which it seems we both can utilize properly . Problem is most people starting out cannot utilize wiring diagrams and even some service info due to experience level. And isn't it a good thing that people can inquire and utilize other people's...

Totally agree on all points... Especially there are no dumb questions . We are all definitely trying to help . " dried up like one of those cellar spiders ". That is too funny ... And accurate!

I'll pm you after work with 100 percent accuracy as to factory colors and function ... Since I've never installed RF KIT in anything later than 72... but I'm more than confident I am correct anyway . I get off today around 7 however since I gotta review my apprentices after shop is closed . So...

If you are running MSD IGNITION ... The blue and brown can be soldered or machine crimped and sealed together to become your HOT IN RUN AND CRANK voltage supply . . Will work for any ignition that requires such voltages . NOT compatible with points and ballast resistor obviously

My bad you counted right .... Statement as to colors still stand tho. Sorry I miscounted your post

Hey hold up ... I'm looking at your pics ... You counted 4????? I can obviously see five .... Not to mention that's pretty much the minimum you will see on any factory ignition switch . Black will be accessory voltage supply . Blue and brown are ign 1 and ign 2 as far as I can predict ...

I agree one thousand percent with this post , spoken from someone who obviously has installed one with proper results . Ain't it grand when a plan comes together.:thumbsup:

No doubt about that !!!! Completely worthless

Absolutely there are buzzers and lamps that terminate in the OE connector , that's up to the OP as to including any in his build . But yeah , totally valid statement .

Yellow Is 12 volts supply to switch Red is 12 volts START voltage ( solenoid / start relay) Blue and brown are ign 1 and2 on a 71 and 72 ( run voltage and cranking voltage with ballast resistor and points ) however u should have factory electronic ignition so since there are apparently only...

Once again I just want to hammer this point ... You do not even need a factory diagram or manual FOR RF KIT INSTALL!!!! You need them for a myriad of other reasons but they will not simplify or accomplish anything except to confuse the " average " DIY, as he installs these kits. Trust me ...

If it's a Ron Francis express kit. ?? The instructions are very clear that Ron includes. Read each and EVERY detail point sheets for EACH circuit group( bags are corresponding for each) . Apply that to the color full vehicle schematic and having the yellow sheet as reference where needed ...