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Actually I moved I am now in Beldenville WI I forgot to update my info.

Hi guys, a few years ago some of you followed my mini restoration on my high school car. Well its time to let go to a new owner. Here are the highlights. 1970 Swinger 340 3-speed bucket seat car with build sheet. The engine is numbers match the tranny was removed and a 4 speed was put in. I...

I am interested, but your inbox is full.

It was a really fun weekend..

Before I shoot I have always used wax/grease remover. The acetone was not normally used. But since I needed to remove the primer I was surprised how easily acetone cut it. That's a good idea though. I will use that when I paint my Challenger.

My original hood had some frame damaged do to a stuck hood hinge. So I found another hood. I just need to finish up the scoops.

I buffed the lenses and bought a new bezel from Classic Industries..

New dp-50 base and activator. Everything else was the same.

Round 3 went flawlessly... Everything cured in the correct time.

DP

I'm not wiping it off all the time. But when I have to start over, I want smooth bare metal. That way I have less blocking to do. I suspect that the epoxy (used as a sealer) did not cure right. It was sticky under the single stage. If that is true, that would explain why the single stage did...

Round 3... New printer base and activator. And just to be sure triple checked the ratios....

What about wiping the primer off with acetone and a rag? It wiped squeaky clean instantly. Is that normal? I mean I know acetone would cut the primer but I didn't think it would dissolve the primer so quickly.

Brand new can of activator. But that was what I was thinking.

I knew it was sandless primer but didn't know it would gum up sandpaper. Thanx for the info.

75 deg

Hello, I am in the process of painting a hood for my Dart. I had it bad blasted then cleaned with Acetone. I sprayed DP-50/ 402 activator mixing it exactly as the label says. I then did 2 coats of K-36 high build primer. Then blocked it out. I then sprayed DP-50 again but reduced with DT-870...

Its PPG DDL lacquer with an additive. I got it from Instrument Specialties.

The dash turned out pretty nice. I used the correct PPG suede textured paint. Here is a pic of the glove box.

Thank you, it has been a lot of work. I have really enjoyed driving her again and brings me back to being 16. Just a flood of memories ....

I decided to replace my instrument bezel and paint the dash. Ideally removing the dash frame is best. But I didn't want to get that extensive.

Thank you... I was able to get the latch apart.

Car is a 70 Swinger 340 4-speed thanx..

The gloaming of the evening.

Well, after driving the car for a summer I have a few issues to work on. My first project is a sloppy clutch pedal. I replaced the pivot rod and bushings last year. But it's still pretty sloppy. I just pulled the large steel tube that is also the pivot for the brake pedal. It was worn in one...

I replaced my dash bezel so I don't need this one. Thumb wheel radio opening has been cut up. Maybe someone can use it.. $75 obo

Yeah, I did the 9004 halogen upgrade with relays. I also added an extra wire for the alternator. Voltage isn't an issue nor is the brightness. I just want the correct color. The pics above are using my plating power supple at 12.8 volts. I thought the tach being brighter was correct do to...

I was told the color is fixed. So you can't select a different color. I would need to send the radio back to have the color changed.

The lenses were polished. So the radio is blue and the gauges are white? Weird....

That is a new 8k tach from Classic Industries.I think the font is a bit off. I guess my question is, why is there a turquoise lens for the ilumination but the light is white. I thought after 50 years the color has bleached out? This all started when I bought a retro-sound thumbwheel radio. It...