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Good video from ChrisFix about replacing your wiper brake pads. Haven't done this one before, new project for the weekend. I'm assuming on a '76 Duster they're drum brakes, but other than that pretty much the same?

Bump. Still looking for a set of RV-2 brackets for a 360 w/ aluminum water pump, and also a 3-groove crank pulley.

I already have a good RV-2 compressor from the original slant 6 but those brackets are obviously useless to me. Looking for a full set of AC mounting brackets that will work with this motor.

High torque beer opener. This is the less common bi-directional model, suitable for use on either left or right handed bottles. Make sure you set the lever on your ratchet appropriately before using it.

This email just showed up in my gmail spam inbox. I... think if I convert from... it must be cm and kg, right? So she's, uh mumble mumble... carry the nine... divide... 5'2" and 125 lbs? But she doesn't sound like my type. Does anyone know where I can find proper SAE units women? Also am I...

Title says it all. Looking for paint, mounting panels/doors/trunk/hood, and glass.

'76 Duster

Yes, used the same hole saw I used to make the hole for the clutch master cylinder in the plate in the bracket. There's about an inch of the master housing that sticks out past the mounting plate, so the hole in the firewall has to be big enough to clear the master and the rubber boot, not...

Hah! Took me more than a day, all hand work. -- Need to add a photo, the back side required a couple hours of careful slow grinding to match the profile of the firewall. Can't imagine that's quite the same for any two cars in the same year, let alone generically. It'd be tough to produce in...

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.

Assuming they haven't been overbored, are all 360 (non-magnum) blocks across all years interchangeable? I see some commentary on a pre-74 block being preferable based on wall thickness... But there aren't any changes through the years that make parts incompatible, right? Date aside, are there...

PM sent

Hey, Mark, sorry for the delay -- Yes, PM'ed you back.

Thanks for the clarification. :)

Believe, because it wouldn't make any sense to order low profile bars with +1" springs. But I just sent an email back to Calvert to see if they can confirm. EDIT: Per Cuda, 4201 (and per the website, LP for street use, not LP for lowered suspensions as I at first had misunderstood it.)

4200 are standard, 4201 are Low Profile for if you've lowered ride height, and 4209 are special for inboard shocks. I believe they're 4200. EDIT: 4201 Low Profile is for street, (vs 4200 drag strip specific), and per Cuda below they are Low Profile.

Unused, never installed. Purchased for a '76 Duster, but ended up with Street Lynx instead. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Leaf Springs were $400, still new. CalTracs traction bars were $370, still new Shackles were $60, still new. U bolts are for a 3" axle, were $35, still new. All told it was $860, Asking $750...

The post was really about the hilariously wrong stock photo they put at the bottom of their graphic. Zoom in and take a look. Apparently my "torsion bars are just a little too long to fit" was too subtle a joke. :)

So I saw this, and I was following everything up until I got to the diagram for step 5... https://i1.wp.com/s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/dd/8c/91/dd8c91435de3de02e35fce7e9281011c--steering-facts-about.jpg The torsion bars on my Duster connect between the frame and the suspension arm...

Oh. And you'd best watch yourself, Bruce Campbell. Your pathetic chainsaw arm doesn't impress me anymore.

Facing jig It's quite rigid. In between the two tubing sections held together by the C clamps, I have a stack of feeler gauges, held in place by the dark grey C clamp that is my depth gauge. I added one more feeler gauge to set the depth of cut, set in the grinder, and c-clamped together. For...

But then suddenly, I realize there may be an even better way. Instead of a powered grinder mounted at the end of an arm, I think I could use a number of fixed cutting edges, mounted around the periphery of a well-balanced cutting assembly. Then I'd use the crank itself to rotate the entire...

I really like this idea. Perfect way to get the back face back square to the crank. Now I just need to spend some time figuring out how to mount it all. Thanks for the great suggestion.

I know it was align honed.

0.4 deg :) Think with congruent triangles. If I have 40 thou of error out at a distance of 8" (rough size of bell), then out at 20" (lenght of block), it's about 100 thou.

Feeling the same -- If they didn't re-deck it, then displacement and compression would be all over the place from the front cylinders to the back, and it would run like ****. If they re-decked it, but didn't start wondering why there there was over 100 thou of error needing fixed, then they're...

Absolutely, yes... Assuming that every single block through that machine is fixtured and clamped properly. There's never a single block that someone clamped only at one end, and never a block that got set down in the fixture with a metal chip under it, lifting one end... A 60 thou piece of...

No, agreed -- I do care a lot about getting the tranny so that it's in angular alignment with the crank. So that would mean either machining the taper out of the block, or machining a matching taper into the bell, or shimming the taper out, such that the angular misalignment is resolved. Any...

So, further background on all of this. I inherited this engine when my dad passed two years ago. He'd specced it out and gone out to talk to the builders and such. It came out of Muscle Motors in Lansing, MI, which appears/appeared to have a good reputation here and on the For B Bodies Only...

Thanks to the community for all the excellent responses and suggestions. I'll reply potluck style here. Yeah, thought the same. Maybe they had it paired up with an automatic transmission and relied on the torque converter to take up the angular slop? Or they shipped it and made a car that...