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So those offset bushings really helped the alignment today. we kept the front cams all the way out, and adjusted the rears to dial in about 1.5° camber: Was able to keep around 7° of caster, which with a 16:1 manual steering and small rallye steering wheel is not much fun in parking lots!

Just got back from some chassis dyno time. It seemed to like around 12.2:1 AFR best, with 36° timing. Was 98° ambient in the room, very hot day! Best run was a 335hp at 6K, with 430 ftlbs at about 3K. Due to the higher stall, we couldn't test much lower. Pretty much pulled flat through...

Although it's a different setup now, a friend wanted to go drag racing at a street legals night so gave it a couple 1/4 mile passes. Traction is limited, even with 150 lbs in the trunk for ballast! It was sure nice having the big brake setup now for stopping at the end of the track. :)

Any ideas on that one? I haven't found two holes to mount that anywhere on the car. Does anyone have a similar part in the rear wheel well? There's no sheet metal left there for it to mount too.

Could this possible be part of the rear wheel well? The original owner was driving with snow chains, which came loose and beat the rear wheel wells pretty bad. Is there normally something here on Demons / Duster / Dart Sports?

Awesome, found it for the first set! Below is a photo for anyone that finds this thread in a search for reference. Now just one mystery part left...

So putting my 72 Demon back together after 20+ years has gone mostly smooth, but I have a few parts lefts over (never a good sign!) Could anyone help ID what these are and where they go? The second part is a single, hard plastic, with two hole mount. It looks similar to the starter splash...

It's been a while since I've updated this thread. Starting to get the car back together this spring, and will hopefully get some track time this summer. A couple pictures of the new engine bay, should be relatively sleeper but I'm sure you guys can spot a ton of the upgrades hiding: Had to...

Swapped on the original 7-blade fan (17"?) until I can get this clutch one sorted. Car now runs about 190-200° steady. Thanks for the help everybody! :thumbsup:

Ok, it's not just me, I've got the wrong fan. I'd bought Dorman 620-037 to go with the Hayden clutch, which looks to be actually the Magnum version so the blades are reversed. Anyone know the correct parts number for the mopar 5-blade fan? I've coming up with Dorman 620-054 or 620-048 but...

SOLVED! The fan was on backwards... :( I mounted the shroud tonight, and the problem became very obvious. A ton of hot air blowing out from the grill! With the shroud in place it moves a lot more air, and I could tell that the fan was pushing not pulling. For some reason all this time when...

Thanks for the link! looks like it needs to be a bit hotter before I can ensure if it's working or not. I pulled the lower hose off and ran some water from the garden hose through the rad. It seemed to have no problem with flow, so should be able to assume it's clear. Have the shroud and a...

Aha, that might be it! So I warmed it up tonight, and shut it down with the hood closed to get it heat soak. The clutch fan still spun freely by hand. What temp do these need to be at before locking up? The aluminum fins measured 160°F when I was spinning them.

The shroud is on order, should get here in about a week. It's a part I planned on adding anyways, keeps the fingers safer and will help that fan pull air through. I didn't save the picture, but the FLIR of the radiator showed it a couple deg warmer in the corners away from the fan, but...

It's a brand new Spectra CU526 rad though, that should be clear and free flowing. I agree though, the lower tank should be cooler than 9° from the upper tank. It's the 5 blade mechanical fan, with the Hayden viscous clutch. The clutch is spaced about 3/4" from the rad fins, and the fan sits...

Got a couple more mins tonight, so started compression testing. Plugs look good so far, just a bit of light brown. Cyl. #1: 131psi Cyl. #2: 130psi DCR is about 8.2:1, so I think that's the right ballpark?

Those headers sure run hot, even right after startup! Got a loaner of a FLIR camera from work, so was able to map out the engine bay. Also checked the timing, it 20° initial at idle, and total advance is 34° by around 2500rpm. A/F ratio is currently 13.5:1 at idle and 12:1 under load...

There's at least some, when I did the cam break in I had the rad cap off to get any air out, and you could see the water circulating. It's a new 180° thermostat, and I boiled it to check that it's working. The cap is holding good pressure, and it's a new rad with just distilled water so far...

Went for the first drive tonight, but overheated after about 2 mins. Something ain't right... Gonna borrow a infared gun from work tomorrow and check if the coolant is flowing as it should be. Upper hose was frm and scorching hot, lower felt hot to, but so did everything in the engine bay...

Can't see any of the pipes from the back:

Here's the X-pipe and mufflers tucked up tight: Dynomax Turbo style: And the hidden tailpipes, painted black to blend in: I'm going to run a piece of the old single 2" pipe out by the bumper, slant six style. ;) (but will polish it up of course)

Not really much pre-made other than the set of mandrel bends when you start combining kits. I've got about 8 hours into it so far cutting, expanding and bending pipe to make it work... :( Should be onto the final fitment and painting for the exhaust this weekend. Sure hope the sound from the...

Exhaust parts came in, hopefully get that done this weekend and should be a bit quieter! Jegs 2.5" mandrel kit, no mufflers: Jegs X-pipe kit: They do a nice job on welding these Dynomax Turbos: (hopefully quiet enough!)

It's ALIVE!!! :lol: Just fired up last night a broke in the camshaft, that was a loud 20 mins in the garage! Took a couple refills of the carb bowls before the fuel lines primed, but then she was good to go. Engine runs smooth, with the oil gauge steady at 40psi idle up to 70psi at 2500rpm...

The engine machinist I've been using picked it out, wanted that bit less lobe separation and a heathly lift / duration for street use. It's 294°/298° advertised 243°/245° @ 0.050" with 0.520"/0.528" lift 109° lobe separation Ended up with more that 0.100" piston to valve clearance, so lots of...

Next project will be exhaust: Dougs 453's are on the car which will be followed by: - Jegs 2.5" X-pipe - Dynomax super turbo mufflers - Jegs mandrel 2.5 tailpipes - Some type of factory looking tips? I was also thinking of having the dual turn down hidden under the trunk, and faking a single 2"...

Thanks for the comments on the color, it was originally a 318 car so came in std mopar blue but I like this better. I'm looking for a fan shroud, but not sure which ones will fit. It's a Spectre CU526 replacement radiator, so might need some fabrication. They are hughes rockers, 1.5 ratio. I...

Haven't updated this thread in a while, but motor & tranny are in, and just a couple items left before first startup, like mufflers. :) A set of Dougs 453B headers made there way in after trying some cheap headman ones that hung too low: Got the denso alternator swap done, and a clutch...

This is what I love about the FABO forum, someone out there has tried almost every combo! Yes, they are the same Mancini ones, just 1.5 ratio. What thickness of spacer did you end up with? I was thinking to trace the valve cover gasket onto a sheet of aluminum and cut it out. It looks like...

It's the Chrysler Turquiose that they used on big blocks and the 340 cars. The original 318 in the car was the standard Blue but I like this better with the Gunmetal body color. I used POR15, and I think it's a bit lighter than the old parts I had. Hopefully it will darken a bit with time.