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Pictures.

Mine's a #'s matching 80% survivor with 47k

So.... I'm about to sell my 68GTS. What's the best way to determine what it's worth? I've done the search and it seems prices are all over the place.

It turned out outstanding. The diaphragm was leaking. It's nice to have brakes that actually work for a change and the booster looks brand new. I highly recommend Booster Dewey if you have a booster that needs restored or rebuilt.

Okay, back from honeydo's. One more question before I get under the car again later today. Can or does this cable get lubrication?

I've done a lot. Rebuilt or restored (not all me) 1. Steering Box 2. Carburetor 3. Power Steering Booster 4. All new brake lines and brakes 5. Re-gasket the upper end of the engine 6. A little here and a little there At one time the speedometer did work but the car had been on jack...

I'm thinking it's the gear in the 727 transmission but what else might be the problem. Thanks...

I'm looking at using an Electronic Ignition system for my 68 dart with numbers matching original box stock 340. I'm not looking to race the car just drive it from time to time as I clean it up from about 30 years on jack stands. I will send the original off to be restored eventually. I was...

Neither of the wheels lock up completely so that's not a problem. I'll pull the drums off and check the wear. I hadn't thought of that. It's been decades since I had a car with drum brakes on the road and I imagine back in the day my local buds handle that for me. As to the fluid movement...

Tested as in your first paragraph. The pedal came up high and hard. Held it down and started the engine and the pedal dropped about an inch. Checked what I think is the C-ports in the MC with a wire (paper clip) and it doesn't go into the bore at all. Attached is a picture of what I see and...

Okay. Had my master pedal pusher help me out. Pedal is high and hard with engine off (power booster) a little lower with the engine running. In both cases there was no roiling in the MC at all. I even had her let up the pedal quickly, with an appropriate guard over the MC, with the same result.

Engine running or no?

I've adjusted the pads according to what was specified. After driving for a while I don't feel a difference in heat from one side to the other. Should I? Also, how about the auto adjusters. Can they fail to work properly and if so, how can I tell. Thanks for the replies.

No. I actually used the service manual to install the brake shoes and they're both correct.

Okay riddle me this. On my numbers matching all stock 68 Dart GTS. I've been following this because I've been having the same problem with the right front brake locking down more than the left front and pulling strongly to the right. That is until I drive a while and everything seems to warm...

He'll get it tomorrow. :)

Any recommendations on someone to rebuild/restore my 68 Dart GTS power brake booster?

Know where I can get a rebuild kit? And how to tell which booster.

Finally got back to it on the brakes issue. When I depress the brake pedal the engine increases in rpm and shakes as you can see in this video.

Thank you. I will check that out after the honey-dos today. :)

Got the steel ball in and adjusted the secondary spring. Got a question on vacuum. What should vacuum read that goes to the distributor?

I have the same carburetor on the same engine in the same car and all my research says leave it as is. What problem are you having anyway?

Just looking for options if I decide to dump the points.

Got a specific recommendation? Thanks for the info.

Saw those. Are they any good? Are they reliable?

Replace the points with something electronic without changing the outward appearance of the stock distributor or drilling holes.

Maybe you didn't understand. I HAVE a stock dual point in my 68 GTS. I'm asking if there's something I can use, that's not junk, internally in the stock distributor that will work.

Is there a good option to do this without drilling holes in my stock #'s matching survivor? Want to keep it original looking as possible.

Actually I haven't reassembled. Working on bookshelves for my Grandson. The package of weights etc. came with three different balls. One steel, one aluminum, and one what looks like plastic. I assume the lighter ones are supposed to give a quicker shot. I'll probably get to reassembly today...

What's the difference?