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I'm searching for a running 1971/1972 Dodge Demon I know the kind of car I'm looking for and know the expense, however I'm not looking for a rusted shell or a cherried out Barrett Jackson mobile. My only requirement for the car is that it can be daily driven and is mechanically sound. Mainly...

More pics of the car for sale.

1972 Plymouth Duster in the Gold Duster trim 318ci LA, 904 3-speed auto column shift, and 7.25 open diff, and is original A/C with power steering. Only things missing when I got the car was the radiator, intake manifold, and the carburetor. I have everything else with the car including an...

That's pretty sweet, I was guessing some of them had those capabilities. Now I just gotta find a front end off any of those cars. Or buy new I suppose.

Just recently bought a 1972 Plymouth Gold Duster, original plans for it went way out the window... Anyways I thought it would be bad *** to possibly throw on a Demon/Swinger front end and possibly dub it the Gold Dustin' Demon. Gold Dustin' Swinger would be more ideal if it was more than a one...

Tracking any progress I do on my Valiant with the tag #63VO23. Also recently became the new owner of a 1972 Plymouth Gold Duster!

The headers you have there are similar to the Hooker Super Comps I was looking at, though I've been told that there may be serious modification to different cars depending on how they fit them.

Going to assume it to be a side draft setup. Looks great, but holy crap I did not expect to see a 1200-2200$ price tag on just a full conversion.

My personal opinion, and many will not agree. It is more labor intensive, but most bang for the buck. Pull the head and mill it to raise the compression ratio. How much depends on whether you are OK with premium, or reguler fuel. Better fuel economy, and more power. No down side. Then after...

3.23 is the winning lottery number in my 7.25.

Plan on having dual exhaust, would there be any issues putting an adapter flange from 2 1/2" to 3" cause any back pressure issues? want to slap on some Purple Hornies or go with a Stock Car exhaust setup from there. Though I can go the stock car route without flange issues.

Will swapping the manifold for headers require a cam change? Trying to avoid delaying it's debut with pavement. I'm ocd on certain things but with a current worn compression of 5.8:1, if a cam change is mandatory I might as well go the whole mile.

Looks awesome! Was looking at the Clifford headers and intake earlier.

Looking to make my slant 6 a lil' badass for the time being. What are some decent set ups? Daily driver conditions.

Learn something new everyday!

It is limited slip. The bottle I found of oil in the trunk is 85w-140, leading to my assumption for use.

Now I'm sure I can use 85w-140 for the diff. But should I add thicker gear oil instead?

Will Ultra Blue work as well? Living in the hills is a hassle sometimes running to a part store.

Highly doubt my car has sure grip. Would be something if it did. I man handled this rear end every which way and no leaks visible any where.

I was checking it earlier today and figured that's what I'll just do. No play in anything just a little aggravated that who ever last sealed the diff plate didn't use a seal, just a whopping amount of make-a-gasket. Which makes me wonder, is just gasket maker an okay substitute?

Aside from the pinion gear and the diff cost... Hope they're good, what's a good estimated cost of bearings and seals to redo the whole rear end per say? Just watched a Chrysler/Mopar video on servicing my rear end and it seems like the idea is to replace it all with the right spacers, etc...

That's good to know. I'll just have to find a place to press my bearings since that's out of my backyard mechanic range.

Step ahead on the gear oil. Everything else should be fine then?

Getting the housing ready to paint and all, trying to decide whether I should take the axles and gears out or leave them in. Everything functions fine by hand. Due to not having any brakes, I haven't moved the car under it's own weight so I have no idea how it reacts with power of any kind...

The bell housing won't be an issue either? and I believe the 18 spline takes a 5.125" if I remember right from what I read. I'd have to measure the 340 crank and trans input when I get them.

I already know I'll have to modify my trans hump on my 1963 Valiant in order to convert to a manual, but mainly wondering if the 18 spline A-833 will bolt to a 340, or will there need to be modification there?

Looks pretty good! Nice and clean swap.

If they were twisting while you were loosening the bolts like mine were at outrageous angles, it's better to get new ones. Almost thought mine were going to snap when I was wrenching on them with a jack handle taped to a ratchet.

I'll look into them. I'm getting a tubular K member for the front end when I do the swap. Should help with oil pan and header clearance from what I've read. Might go with Magnum force on it since it might be cheaper through them than going the whole stretch with QA1. Almost want blueprints to...