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The idle fuel mixture screws will shut the engine off if closed (screwed all the way in). When adjusting idle fuel mixture I'll set them at two and a half turns out and then close them until vacuum drops, then back them out a quarter turn. I do this after setting initial timing and having the...

I drive the car pretty frequently, about 1200 miles a year in warm weather. It will sit through winter though. This road trip was on gas filled up that morning. Yes, I've been setting the hot idle all the way down and setting timing by advancing to where engine has highest vacuum. I have been...

Thanks for all the info! I will have to digest it. Pulled the plugs and photographed them. They probably have about 3,000 miles on them. Yes, I set timing with the vacuum advance can unplugged, engine hot, and throttle completely closed. I do have the idle speed screw adjusted all the way out...

Yes, it's a BBD. I did try something new with the initial timing. I used to stick it at 10 deg, then backed it down to 8, but this time I advanced it until the engine started running rough, then backed it down a couple degrees. Ended up around 14 deg btdc. I have also been considering this is...

Thanks! That was very helpful in visualizing what's happening. I will pull the plugs and see how they are after the trip. I drove 300 miles round trip for the eclipse. Reading an AMC manual for later BBDs, it suggests adjustments to the metering rods are required for heavy load enrichment. Am I...

Went for a road trip in my 1968 barracuda, and the car drove well except for situations where I hammer it. It's always had a bit of a hesitation problem that's been easy to get around, and don't know if this is related. When I floor it the engine was run poorly (slight sputter) for a few seconds...

I'm having issues with my stock temperature and oil gauges underreporting in my 1968 Barracuda. They appear to report about half of the values that I'd expect. I paid good money to have all of the gauges refurbished and they still do it. Could something outside of the gauges be causing this...

This may be too obvious to be a good solution, but would a hot glue gun be a good solution if the remainder of whatever the factory used isn't sufficient to hold down the lenses?

Thanks for the advice! I have the same gauge lenses to install, and found a few issues with the bezel in the form of broken guide pegs and some of the warning light lenses fell out as the hot melt adhesive holding them on peeled off. The guy who previously "restored" the dash used masking tape...

The original gauge lenses are scratched up, stained, and one of the decorative center pieces was broken off and lost before I got it. I got replacements, but need to figure out how to best remove the originals without damaging anything. I recall finding a guide somewhere but can't remember where...

Well, I've found where the problem was. It was the wiper switch. I figured the ticking had to be something just behind the dash and with it happening with the engine not running it had to be either the flashers, wipers, or radio as others already pointed out. I just unplugged everything until it...

Thanks, this is very helpful. The regulator is new from classic industries. It says it's electronic, instead of mechanical, so I don't know if that enters into the conclusion. I still have the previous one and I didn't think it was malfunctioning when I replaced it. I am open to the idea that...

I just reinstalled the gauge cluster, removing the circuit boards to access the gauges and reinstalling them.

Well, ran some tests. Pulled the steering wheel and inspected the switch, switch is fine. Disconnected both the switch connector and the flasher, Ammeter still did the wave with ignition in both ACC and ON. Found a broken wire on the switch cables after the disconnect. The orange wire to the...

I think you're narrowing it here. The original switch had a broken cam so I replaced it with one from classic industries, including the wiring down to the connector. I was immediately disappointed in it as the new cams are just a bit too wide to be hit by the cancel pin in the steering wheel, so...

I've not added anything to the car that draws power. Electrical system should be completely stock. I can check if one of the circuits are drawing over the fuses. I recall reading there's a way to isolate shorts that way.

This was just after a cold start after sitting for a while, and I didn't have the charger on it, so it was probably just charging. I can try putting the battery on the charger.

Battery reads a steady voltage in normal range (~13.5-14 volts charging). Do you mean current going through other circuits causing magnetic field and interfering with the ammeter? That still sounds like a problem. I have a previous thread talking about the gauge problems. There you did share...

Hmm, another issue that may be related is that the right turn signal indicator on the hood and in the dash is dimly lit constantly with the turn signals off. It operates normally when signaling a right turn. Possibly related? I've also recently replaced the turn signal assembly in the steering...

That was my thought, but I had them all including the fuel gauge sent in and repaired and it still does this. Rallye dashes have the limiter built into the fuel gauge. It also does it when I have the entire cluster disconnected at the circuit board.

I've got an electrical issue with my 1968 Barracuda. The Ammeter will drop, wave for a second, then return to normal and it does this cyclically. There is an audible click every time it drops and every time it resets. Headlights dim with the waving. It does this whenever the ignition is on or on...

I'm referencing the Barracuda instrument panel wiring diagram in the 68 Plymouth service manual (8-112 & 8-113), where it didn't show a voltage limiter while the Valiant wiring diagram does. That was the source of my confusion. Now knowing it's internal to the fuel gauge explains that. Thanks...

The word doc here looks like it may be my solution.

Could you explain how exactly I killed them so I know in the future? With the suggestion that the original gauges are now fried than I need to start considering replacement options. I'm guessing that installing a new digital regulator as above will not fix them and will need to source...

I recently did reworking of the gauge cluster to replace lights in my 1968 Barracuda, and replace both of the circuit boards with ones from Classic Industries. Everything worked fine for a while after, until the temperature, oil pressure, and fuel gauges started going strait to max travel with...

So as an update, it does seem to be getting better. It occasionally wants to return to center, but still needs the help. The feedback to lock is worst when I am backing out of a parking space and trying to turn all the way the opposite direction and I hit the gas. Then the steering wheel wants...

No, there is definitely a dwell with the steering wheel strait, so it feels like manual steering once the car is moving at significant speed and turning along bends requires very minor steering input. Once there's significant turn to the wheel in either direction feeling is varied, with less...

Probably still not the whole story. I'm learning it with you all as I investigate lol. No apology needed. Still gotta figure out what design this is or if there's someone I can call for it. It may be that he was told this specific unit needs broken in and can't be adjusted like an oem one...

So, I've been reviewing the service manual and searching steering boxes online and I've noticed what's in there now isn't the same unit as what was in before or what's in the service manual, so it won't help me adjust it. Photos inserted below. I am not sure what style it is or where to look to...

That was my fear. A big clue was when I picked it up and the mechanic said three people test drove it, himself included, but I could immediately tell the steering wheel was ~45 deg out of alinement. I brought it back immediately pretty peeved and they did fix that day with no additional cost but...