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Thanks guys! The leak is definitely on the top side somewhere, not from the pitman arm area. Car steers great, just want to get rid of the leak. I will probably try o rings for the hoses first since that will probably be the easiest. Anybody know where to get the o rings from?

So my power steering box has been leaking for a while and I've tried using Lucas Power Steering stop leak but it only slowed the leak. I'm assuming my seals in it are done. I've never taking the steering box off or worked on one. Is this something that I should just bite the bullet and...

Ok i just did this test and I got .8 volts from positive to alternator output. I guess it's just low output of the alternator at idle rpm.

Ok tested the field wire while running. 13.6 at idle in Park. 13.2 with lights on at idle. Couldn't test while in drive but that's where it drops badly. Voltmeter usually days 12 volts with lights on in drive. While driving it says 13.8 with lights on. I toughened the belt but saw no...

I may just replace it since it looks old as dirt and it about one of the last things that I haven't replaced on the car. It'd be easy to do and just piece of mind that it's new.

How would I check the voltage at the field terminal? Just put my multimeter positive on the blue wire and negative on the engine block?

Ok, in doing some more digging isn't one function of the voltage regulator based on temperature? Doesn't it dial back charging voltage at higher temps and increase it at lower temps? Could it be that my regulator is getting too hot or dialing back too much when it sitting in stop and go...

No, I don't have one. No, I don't have a load tester. Best I can do is get the battery or alternator checked at an auto parts store. At idle I know the alternator would fail when the car is hot but pass when it's cool. I guess I could get another alternator since it's under warranty but I...

The pulley looks normal size to me but I could be mistaken. It's not abnormally large if that helps. Also, the rpms aren't dropping when it's hot they actually are going up a bit and the problem is even there when it's in park and idling higher than when in drive, just not as bad. For example...

I'll post a photo when I get off work. I do not run electric fans because I know my stock style alternator couldn't handle it. The alternator is a auto parts store remanufactured stock style for 71 Dodge. It charges at 14 volts and I've confirmed it at the battery when the car is first...

The only thing not stock is it has a relay that accounts for the crappy bulkhead connector and a bypass wire from alternator to the starter relay to help charging. Everything works great when it's nice and cool, only when it's hot does it barely charge.

Think it might be slipping when it gets hot? I'll see if I can get more tension on it. Good call. I have a multimeter but no carbon pile load tester.

So it's fairly normal to have this issue when it's hot and not when it's being driven and cool? Everything works fine and charges great until extreme stop and go diving. The alternator is about a year old and is 70 amp I believe. The voltage regulator is original.

So I went on a cruise last night and it was a lot of stop and go traffic. Car was running about 200, no biggie there but I was noticing coming to the stops that it was not charging or barely charging. The voltmeter usually is about 14 but this was about 13 or just under, sometimes 12 and I would...

Alrighty guys. I guess im just going to have to do what I gotta do. Thanks!

Do the regulators have to come out to change the rollers or is there a way to get some slack to change the rollers out one at a time?

So my rear quarter windows in my 71' Dart Swinger won't go down without a lot of effort and while trying to make them go down I can hear the rollers crumbling. What's the best/easiest way to replace the rollers?

I wish I still had it. Thankfully I kept the lock ring!

A sending unit that reads correctly on a stock gauge and not 1/4 full after 2 blocks would be nice. Or even a way to make the crappy ones work correctly.

Im going to assume this rear has been set up wrong from the factory and lived its life like this. Im going to attempt what rusty said and tighten the hell out of it and see what happens. When guessing everyone is agreeing it's not the axle bearings. I put it on Jack stands and got the car up...

Any way to listen for it and rule out the axle bearings for sure? Put it on Jack stands and listen to where it comes from?

The axle adjuster was set to .008" of play.

I have no clue since I just got it and it came from a car that sat for many years. Should I just run it as is?

Kind of, the faster I drive the higher the pitch. It's loudest around 50 mph. When I stay steady speed it almost disappears. When slowing down it quiets down below 40 mph.

I got an 8 3/4, 741 case, 3.23 open rear from a 68 GTS. I put plenty of grease in the bearings and set the preload after cleaning it out. It looks to have sat for a long time. The teeth on the gears looked really good but that's the only inspection I could do. When I I'm driving it above 40 I...

Im repacking the bearings that are on my axles. I did my fronts like this though.

Yes, OEM tapered bearings are what I have. I thought the inner axle seal keeps diff fluid out of the bearing and they are only lubricated by wheel bearing grease?

I've got an 8 3/4 rear and I need to repack the axle bearings. What's the best method to make sure they are greased well?

My bit wasn't cutting it and I thought that one set was defective but when the second set came like that I knew they had a problem. If it was the only set of shoes I could get I would've drilled but I would've needed a new bit or a drill press. Either way I just decided to let yall know to save...

I bought two different sets of brake shoes from Autozone for my 10" x 1.75" rear brakes, part #331, and neither of them had the holes for the lower return spring drilled in them. I took both back and had to order from O'Reilly's. Hopefully those are made correctly. Just giving ya'll a heads...