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Great write up thank you for taking the time to explain all this. I think I understand most of it. BTW the engine is in the car. I did have it running for a short time. I putt 3:55 gears in the rear. I am trying to get some incremental improvements prior to a complete rebuild. I know at some...

Maybe so and probably BUT thats not what I am looking for here. I am looking to improve drivability and overcome a non ideal set up in an extreme environment Arizona with shitty fuel lol

Good inputs thank you guys. Some of my thinking was based on this thread. The general consensus was that VS was better for an automatic on the street. My plan is to make one change at a time as mentioned above. First the intake manifold. The situation is a little complex as I am moving to the...

Yup I did work the distributor springs to slow the advance which did solve the detonation as I described above. But still had to retard the total. So will a vacuum advance improve acceleration and general drivability in this situation over mechanical is what I am wondering…

I can’t get compression numbers just yet as I have some reassembly work to do yet. But I can get that done early next week.I I did plot my curve and recall it being very gradual to soften the detonation. I think I was all in like at 3500. This along with a slight retard did stop the...

Did not mean to offend you. Typing my thoughts isn’t always very easy for me. What I meant was that I might already be able to trade my current mechanical double pumper for a friends vacuum so I was focusing on what to use with it ie possibly either one of the distributors I posted above. Are...

12:1 approximately the pistons are TRW 12:1’s guessing at the rest as I don’t have the piston height or cam specs.

Thats a good question. Tuning has been difficult. I have higher compression set up thats needs to be retarded slightly to run on pump gas. I “had” a single plane M1 with mechanical secondaries (I am replacing it with a duel plane air gap now). This set up I believe is best for a 4 speed not an...

So I have a low profile (and it needs to stay low profile) mechanical secondary and carburetor set up on my 340 automatic. Running a 6AL box with a MSD Billet 8534 non vacuum dizzy and a 4150 Double pumper with mechanical secondaries. I understand this is not the best set up for drivability in...

Hey Jim, doing a lot of odds and ends. You know as the resto gets near the end there are a lot of little things to get done. Having some issues with the rear quarter windows. The work great but are canted inwards. Have adjusted all 4 adjusters but off about 1/2 just at the forward edge but the...

Ok my last word on this for the sake of accuracy and completeness. When measuring the height of an intake manifold, the important thing is to measure HOW it sits in the engine. This is exactly how Edlebrock describes it above by CH. Note the drawing is not referencing to the absolute bottom of...

After some scrubbing I found this. While Edlebrock states the height as H which is is not carb height. The carb height is what we really need 99% of the time. This is measured/referenced at the bottom of the manifold to the carb base CH.

Anybody knows how Edlebrock measures Intake Manifold Height? Is it from the top of the base or from the bottom? Or is the measurement based on how it sits in the block? If so where is the reference point? 7576 Air Gap 5.35” 2176 Performer 4.63” 7176 RPM. 5.35”

So my first test fitting went well. All the bolt holes line up perfectly without the gaskets (which I am waiting on). How much off will the holes be with the gaskets in I am wondering. The manifold I would think be raised the thickness of the gasket right? Would the design stack up have factored...

I get my gaskets later this afternoon. I’ll look at all the matches. The pins broke during extraction. I surface ground them no big deal.

Air Gap knock off.

Ok After I inserted the picture I noticed its a roll pin. Should be easier to remove.

So after test fitting I noticed the new manifold is not drilled for the alignment pins in the block fore and aft. What are your suggestions? Looks like I can “try” to drill out the pin holes in the manifold (which will be hard to precisely locate) or remove the pins (which I assume I would have...

Oh boy fresh!

I am not disassembling the motor, just replacing the intake manifold. So I wasn’t planning to remove the anything. Here is a few other shots.

Iron stock heads … .. . Duel plane aluminum with a 4 barrel.

Anybody have any recommendations on a set of intake manifold gaskets for my 340? I don’t do this enough to know what works better than what…

Here are some up close shots of the lifters Nd cam. I didn’t notice much wear from these untrained eyes.

Thanks for the input! I don’t see enough of this stuff to notice that level of detail. I am trying to learn as much as I can.

What do you guys use to cover the lifter valley while I clean the intake gasket area to keep all the junk out?

Well vacuuming at the thermostat did a great job. Was hoping to find a roller cam and lifter set up but no such luck.

Just removed the bolts off the 340 with the M1 single. Kinda what I was expecting. A mixed bag. So how does one by a set of 12 points with this combo? Apparently not….. what do you guys use? Can I buy single 12 points anywhere?

Thanks when I get the manifold Ill measure them.

Just a few questions regarding LA intake manifold bolt lengths. Are all the bolts the same size or are there two that need to be longer? What length is needed as I am installing an aftermarket aluminum intake (the cheap *** ones for magnum/LA). Will 1” work or do I need longer? Thanks

No I am yanking my M1 single and putting in an duel air gap.