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Hi everyone. I missed the boat on Schumacher Slant 6 to Big Block conversion mounts before they closed down. All the alternative options I know of dont make the spool type mounts for the 73+ A-bodies. Does anyone happen to have a set of these around and can ship to me up in Canada?

340 4 speed.

Thanks guys. Sounds like it's normal for it to run while at an idle with a cold engine. I havent driven it yet so I'll see if the fan speed kicks up when it's hot.

I have a 69 Dart 340 I just picked up. It runs and drives but as soon as the engine fires up, the fan runs and doesnt shut off. It looks like a clutch fan. Do these go bad and just need to be replaced over time? It's been sitting for 15 years in a shop but I'm not sure how long it sat for it's...

Yes, 1 pad at the rear and that's everything I was hoping for, thanks. I need it to fit in my Valiant.

Does anyone know if this is a 4 speed tranny from the numbers in the pictures attached? I'm hoping this is a 4 speed and not a 3 speed but I really dont know enough to be able to tell.

I'm not questioning the method, I'm questioning my ability to pull it off haha. I'm going to pull it out and see if it's bent first.

I'm not about to carve anything. I'm contemplating leaving it alone.

If the cam was bent, would it be harder to spin through the rotation somewhere? Mine is consistently tight, doesnt get worse anywhere.

I threw a Lunati cam into my 383 this evening and everything would spin ok until the cam went into the second half of the last bearing. Once it's all the way into the last hole, I need both hands to get it rotating. It then spins, but fairly tight. If I pull it out about 3/8", it spins...

My wheels showed up today. I'm going to see if I can get some 255's on the rear with the wheel well lips pushed up.

This thing is almost rolling. Got some 11" rear brakes from a local guy near me donated from a Charger and got a rebuild kit from Summit. Cleaned, painted and all bolted in. I bought new front wheel bearings and seals and kept the front rotors when the car was disassembled in case I could use...

When you say tighten fully, how tight you talking?

I have it sorted out now. I made the mistake of thinking the bearing ran on the spindle for some reason not thinking it through clear enough. I was looking for rollers on the inside of the bearing in the picture. I took the seal out with a claw hammer and everything looks good, just very dirty.

I'll yank the seal out tonight and pull out the bearing and show a comparison picture of the new one and the old one.

So is the bearing suposed to be underneath this race?

I'm not sure if I'm just not getting it but my 74 Valiant rotor bearings dont look proper. In this picture you can see there is no rollers or anything on this bearing. I thought the bearing had just fallen apart but no pieces came out with it and the other rotor is the same. The new bearings I...

Yes thank you. I corrected myself on the matter above back in post #12. On a related note though, it doesnt seem like there is a whole lot holding these Green bearings firm in their place. I feel like they'll want to spin inside the housing. What do you know about that?

Unfortunately I didnt buy them new. I bought my axles from a guy down the road that had them in his Duster.

I got the backing plates and Moser axles in this morning and they slid right up to the snap rings on both sides so it seems that, in this application anyway, the thrust block can remain on a cone style sure grip with the snap ring Green bearings.

I have snap rings on one side of the bearing and a slot on the other side for what looks like an o-ring that did not come with the set, I'll have to find a couple of those I suppose

Ahhh yes, this makes sense now.

I think what I was referring to above was cone type and clutch type sure grip. Clutch type has a thrust button and cone type has a thrust block. I'm trying to find out if the cone type has to have the block removed or if it's just the clutch type button that has to be removed. Maybe I'll just...

I've heard it was only the 741 and 742 cases that need the thrust button removed. From what I understand, the 489 case has a thrust block (not a button) that doesnt have to be removed for Green bearings but I'll maybe try calling Dr. Diff.

So with the Green bearings, the thrust block is optional? In other words, it's simply for end play adjustment and doesnt HAVE to be removed if Green bearings are being used? I bought the axles and bearings used so I dont really know how it all goes together at the moment. Something I did notice...

With a 489 cone style Sure Grip and Green bearings with Moser axles, do I need to remove the thrust block from the Sure Grip or is that just for the 741 and 742 cases? What is the meaning behind it?

The sure grip is actually in really nice shape. It doesnt need a rebuild, just a good cleaning, re-assembly, new pinion seal and a coat of paint.

Kids and summer life just seems to take over with the nice weather and with such a short summer here in Canada, the car kinda takes a back seat. But, now that cooler weather is here, I have some time to tinker. So with the help of a few great members here, I was able to get the rear end started...

Thanks for your help guys. I spun them out with a punch and hammer. All that's left is a good clean and reassemble.

I'll try slotting them and see if I can get them out with a screw driver.