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2 weeks without comment...Is this thread dead?

Reinventing the wheel isn't necessary. Chrysler Corp already figured it out for you! A stock A-body 22" 3 core radiator with the stock fan shroud and a 5 blade fan driven by a viscous clutch - use a Hayden 2765 if clearances are tight - will properly cool a HEMI, or a 440 with A/C with room to...

Those pools are caused by lack of thread sealant on the intake bolts. Remove the bolts, blow out the holes with compressed air, squirt a short blast of solvent in the holes and blow them out again. Liberally coat the bolt threads with Permatex #2 sealant. Reinstall bolts. Do the same thing to...

As best I can remember this, more or less, is written in a dog eared early70's era mopar performance engine bulletin. Follow camshaft break in procedure, cool engine to dead cold. Re-start and check timing and idle adjustments, when warmed up make 10 half throttle pulls in second gear from 1500...

I very much enjoy the free exchange of information here, while I very much more dislike how so many of these threads turn into a pissing match via the input of a very few individuals (the usual suspects) who clearly dislike each other. Perhaps those few individuals would be better served by...

If rod and main bearing clearances meet or exceed .002", rocker arms have been converted to full time oiling, lifter bores are worn or have been honed, a HV pump is a good idea. If max RPM is in excess of 6000 RPM a high pressure spring should be installed in the HV pump. Who is this...

Floors front and back and trunk went soft and holy in my 340 A/T 69FB. The first apparent observation something terrible was going wrong was when the leaded seam between the sail panals and roof broke at the top corner of the back window on both sides of the car. Good and proper floors are...

Sure would be nice to be in a position to just buy the pole barn etal. Oh well, dream on... There isn't enough time left for one man to do all of those justice anyway. Damned nice dream though!

I always solder the stud heads to the brass lugs (green ovals on your picture) prior to installing any ammeter new or used. Use a hot 100 watt iron on the flat stud head, add a dab of solder to the intersection of the iron and stud head to initiate heat transfer, when that dab melts to where it...

New 71 Dodges delivered out of Dodge Main in the Detroit area all had ATF in the manual transmissions. A friend and I campaigned a B modified Production 67 Coronet and used ATF in the rear axle and 833. It worked very well in the 833, shifted easier and faster and did no harm. If it made noise...

Power steering brackets were painted with the pump. In the 60's some alternator brackets were painted but a lot of them were finished in a black oxide or parkerizing process. By the mid 70's it seems all of it was painted.

I've seen plenty of TF's with one side of the converter/pump bushing worn through and a groove worn in the nose, usually the pump housing and reaction shaft were junk too. A fair number of them didn't make it 20,000 miles. The factory rep would usually OK replacing the case on the hope the error...

When I switched out the all iron 340 (including exhaust manifolds) to a 400/468 stroker with Aluminum intake/heads/water pump housing, and tube headers I scaled them both on the chain falls, the lightened BB weighed 70 lbs. more than the small block. Both were fully equipped with...

And that is exactly why I ruled out the use of 318 heads exhaust and intake manifolds on the 360. And also why all LA cams, distributors, and carburetors are tuning issues not fitment issues. Rustyratrod said the same thing in a hundred less words. I guess should have left it at that rather than...

Specs on distributors, carburetors, and camshafts are tuning issues best left to the current owner of the car or his/her engine builder. Those factory tuning specs as well as all the emissions parts under the hood in the "as delivered to the dealer condition" changed yearly at the whim of the...

LA family differences: 360 crank main journals are bigger, main bearings are bigger, mains bore in the block is bigger, pistons are bigger than 318 and smaller than 340 and wrist pin is closer to piston head, Harmonic dampener is counter weighted, heads have bigger ports and valves, intake and...

I drive a long taper punch into the exposed portion of the nipple, then twist them out with pipe wrench or vise grips. Usually no heat is required.

2 lifters look convex, one concave, at least one lobe looks to be grooved and worn. Patterns on several lobes are suspicious. If it were mine I'd call Howards cams and start fresh. I'd rather spend the $300 now for cam and direct oil lifters rather than the $1000 and chipped paint plus a weeks...

Best remedy if the spray is localized and findable is to mix 1 pint of hydrogen peroxide with one tablespoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of dish detergent or laundry detergent. This solution is an organic reagent. Search for the place/s the cat sprayed, shiny splotches with drippy marks...

I worked from 1970 to 1980 in Chrysler dealerships, and recreationally ever since. No under warranty small block engine I ever serviced had an oil pump gasket. Saw lots of perforated rocker arms with the lifter thrown out of its bore, and a few cam bearings with a flake of babbit pushed out, and...

You pose excellent questions. And I have no good answers. But I will flesh the event out a bit. I was 26 at the time and quite frankly had become somewhat accustomed to the odd combinations of options Chrysler would build upon request. But those 3 trucks were the most 'out of the box' vehicles...

Well, I might have to take that last statement back. In 1976 the Michigan DNR bought 3 new special order light duty fire trucks from the Dodge dealer I worked at. They were designated M3 and were sprung for about 2 ton, they had old timy body style with narrow hood that opened from the sides...

Good eye! What is that...? It is certainly nothing I've popped a hood on.

That bit of slag in photo 2 might impede the cyclonic efficiency of the fluid. So I'd clean up the bit of slag in photo #2 a bit with a die grinder. I'd completely ignore the filled/unfilled machined surface blemish in photo #1 because it doesn't reach to the important inside edge of the...

I would never ditch the clutch fan to gain radiator core clearance. The OEM 3 core narrow brass/copper is enough cooling for an A-body 426 HEMI, and enough for a 340 A-body with A/C. The clutch fan and proper shroud are the secret to proper cooling and don't steal 20 HP and make a bunch of...

I use one as well, they are a great tool but do add considerable height to the hook point. My shop has a high ceiling with chain falls on an overhead track so that extra 8" or so doesn't matter to me here. Though with a cherry picker and a heavy deep oil pan big block it is hard to get enough...

Me too, that's why I quickly recommended a smooth surface:) 10-4 on the 6' pinch bar and Solid Bro. Lifting the rear of the car a couple of feet higher than the front helps a lot too. Engine room is a tad narrower on the early A, otherwise it's the same fairly easy job early or late.

No need to remove anything except the hood, once the hood is out of the way the engine will slip in from the top without difficulty in less than an hour if your car or lift are free to roll. If you are working on rough ground I wish you the best of luck, you'll need it. Your car is a unibody...

I'm not against Ford ATF specifically, it is very useful in Fords and in some race built transmissions of all makes if the friction materials in them are designed for it. However, if you build a TF with OEM type clutches and bands you will find the more viscous type F will prolong the engagement...

An overheated or failing converter will cause puking of fluid out of the vent. Plugged oil cooler or kinked lines are the usual culprits. A sticking converter control valve in the valve body is always on my list. I've run across a few that didn't have the baffle plate installed over the inside...