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Thanks. On the setup wizard it just asks " Camshaft Profile" Thanls , What you said does make sense about going off the map matrix. The instructions say nothing about @.050 so I am still wondering.

Setting up an Edelbrock proflo 4 system and the ecu wants to know my camshaft profile. What number am I looking for?

I have alot of play at the gear box input shaft. I can rock it back and forth. When I do rock it the shaft moves in & out. It's a rebuild from Rockauto.com, I look like a drunk driver when doing 50 mph +. I am also thinking about getting a Borgeson or Firm feel.

I didn't know what you meat with #123. I don't see the post numbers. Anyways thanks again.

Yes!!!!!!!! Thank you!!! Exactly what I wanted to know.

Thanks for the response but wrong scoops. It's the twin scoops not dual.

Installing twin scoops on my 1971 plymouth valiant scamp. Can't find anything on scoop placement other than "look for factory holes under the hood" answers. Well I don't have any. Can anyone give me a simple answer of measurements like center of hood to center of scoop, back of scoop to back...

What are the measurements that needs to be taking? I need this kit.

Danm just like my wife, wanting answers NOW! :D I have other bugs I'm working out. Last weekend I had my front align and mentioned it's a work in progress. the mechanics were telling me how impressed they were with the condition it was pretty much complete compared to the other classics that...

What's a news paper? LoL Jk, it does look and feel like overspray so after trying a razor and paint thinner I'm starting to think it's a window film or abrasion damaged. I even tried on a little spot using a green 3m pad. Just made it worse.

It's on the outside. Tried paint thinner and a razor both had no effect.

It was like that when I bought it. Doesn't clean off, like it's in the middle.

Does anyone know what this is and if it's fixable? Not looking for "fix it by replacing it" answers.

I did install right out of the box. Smooth ports. Only bad thing I can say is no sort of instructions came with and the manifold and rocker rail threads strip out easy. Also had to get a smaller sparkplug hex size. The 11/16" socket won't fit had to go to 5/8" hex head.

Straight to the point. ..... if your using today's gas you'll need more advanced timing. Maybe around 12* initial and 36* @ 2800 rpm +/- total timing.

1971, rebuilt 318 LA

Update: Problem solved! : ) My MSD distributor had the magnetic pickup polarity backwards. The old instructions said to hook the violet on the 6a to the purple/black and green to orange/black. Did a rotor phasing test and pulled the cap off and saw it was triggering in between the fins not...

No power brakes. I tried spraying wd40 around carb and intake for vacuum leaks, no change.

Found the missing cylinder #7. Found white corrosion on the plug wire connector at the cap end. Took the cap off to inspect and found corrosion on the rotor contact. Cleaned them up and started the engine. Random shake still there. Was playing with idle screw and when it idle from 800 to 900 rpm...

Put a temp gun on it but pointend it right where the first bend coming off the heads. Just read I should check at a straight line of pipe. also did it when car was off which I know isn't correct but I had an average of 145* on all but one at 115*. Leaner burns hotter so what's up with that? Lol...

Well, what I have now is a new MSD pro billet distributor with only mechanical. I bought some stoppers 10* & 14* so the highest initial would be 26*+10*=36*. From what I've read is that VA is not necessary. But I know what you guus are talking about, manifold vacuum gives more initial. So tried...

This is a 1971 plymouth, no computer to help me out.

Found and adjusted the tab for the secondarys. There was a gap between the two. I don't have a brake booster and currently have my timing @ 18 initial & 18 mech. No vacuum advance. Another reason the shakes bug me is that my cheap summit headers hit my torsion bar and steering box during a...

Thanks that totaly makes sense now wit a dual plane manifold. So I take it the secondarys should be completely closed at idle? Been looking for info this morning about it, but no luck. Thanks again

Other issues were from a thumpr cam that I first installed. It shaked like crazy so alot of it was replacing manifold gaskets incase their was a vacuum leak on the underside of the intake. Then I installed a new edelbrock rpm manifold. And the last was replacing the thumpr with a Voodoo cam...

I have already changed rods for a step richer. Speaking of the carb, drove it last night wot and my idle was 1200rpm in park. The secondaries were cracked open a hair but could manually push the linkage back to shut them. Should the secondarys be cracked open normally?

Rebuild 1971 small.block 318LA with all new: Edelbrock 1406, Edelbrock rpm intake, new Promaxx aluminum heads & Lunati Voodoo hydraulic roller cam. Msd 6a, Msd distributor, Blaster 2 coil, msd spark plugs / wires. Issue is engine has a misfire or like a lean burn on one cylinder. Kinda goes...

I checked out the B3 site and found nothing about products for sales. So it must be a custom built order thing. After reading your post, what measurements does he need? What's the average price? What do they look like so I can understand how they work. And to the other guys, Im just running it...

I'm going to rUn it like it is for now. Got it running today but was mis firing at idle but not constant. Looked at my distributor cap and noticed burn marks on the posts but only on the edges and not centerd. Phasing is off I believe , could that cause random shaking at idle?