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Problem solved! It was bonded rubber in a plastic sleeve. There was no way in hell the arm would ever move, there wasn't enough give in the rubber to deflect if torqued down. I'm ordering the greasable one.

That little ring may be plastic, I'll check as soon as I'm home. I'm gonna order one of the greasable ones I'm used to. I tried for like an hour, it's locked up tighter than fort Knox and I ain't kiddin yah.

It wasn't dipped I gave it a light coat of black spray paint. The sleeve isn't plastic or rubber, it's metal. And it absolutely does not move.

So whats the proper technique for installing the oe, if I torque it down it doesn't move.

I'm not worried about returning it lol. I bought the kit like a year ago and am just getting around to finally getting it back together. This style arm and the one I'm used to are both listed on multiple websites for my car.

Yeah definitely pressed together!

I took it back off. I put it in a vice and tried to rotate it with channel locks. Doesn't budge. It looks pressed together.

Bolt through end, the part you bolt to the kmember. Every one that I've ever put in, both ends are greasable, except this one. They normally have two washers and foam rings. This one is an all in one unit, almost looks like a rubber upper control arm bushing.

This was my thoughts exactly. I think the one they sent me may be faulty. I'll add more when I get home today.

I bought a suspension kit from PST for my 73 Dart. The replacement idler arm is different. It's not greasable either which is odd to me. It seems solid bushed and doesn't rotate freely when snugged down, do I just grease both ends and tighten it to zero lash? How are these ones compared original...

First, have you put on a pressure gauge and verified there is low or no pressure being produced when its running? Thats the first thing I would check. Then I would verify converter engagement to the gears, and or damage from not getting the converter in all the way. The pump only has 4 parts...

Yes it's the same piece, I was test fitting it, and then marking where I needed to drill the hole for the kmember nut. And absolutely, I always drill the starts and ends of stress cracks, all it actually does is prevent it from spreading during the welding process. Added bonus is they are...

Thanks buddy!!!

3x2 3/16th wall. Went and measured and corrected my post!

Thank I really appreciate that. Frame work has always kind of freaked me out. I just grabbed the bull by the horns and did went for it. Turned out way better than I would have hoped for. I really learned that if I can do it, anyone with a welder and time could do it!

Thanks brother! It's been on my to-do list for way to long.

I finally decided to tackle the cracked subframe on my 73 swinger. I cut out the bad metal on the bottom where the rear kmember nut is and removed the nut. I ended up internally sleeving it with a piece of 3 by 2 inch 3/16th wall steel tubing. I did 3 3/8ths plug welds on the inner side and 5 on...

Drivelines services of Portland. Call them and ask them what measurements you need(all shops tend to take measurements differently). Generally its from the output shaft to the center of the ujoint caps on the pinion yoke with the suspension fully loaded. They will just build you what you need.

Some people also don't realize that there's more to it than just a shift kit to get teeth chattering shifts. The amount of low end torque an engine produces along with the right stall on your converter plays a huge part in how hard it will actually bang into the next gear. Rear end ratio also...

I have them hold on a sec.

Ok perfect! Glad to know you got a good reading.

A lot of 68 cars have 67 parts in them. The pump is driven off the drive hub and not the input shaft. One would think you'd still have more pressure than you did even with the input shaft not spinning. Tflite patty(Pat Blais) is in my state, he's legendary among tflite builders here and is great...

It will be fine, just lube the drum! The lube on the seal will thaw quickly.

Heres a good tip for piston install so you don't rip the seal. Grease the drum with vaseline or trans build lube. Put the seal on the piston and wrap it pushed down tight with electrical tape. Then freeze it for like 20 minutes. Take it out, pull the tape of, the seal will be flush and the...

All my kits from transparts have had smooth clutches. The grooves on the clutchs may cause some surface area loss, but with the grooves any fluid between the clutchs can escape faster on lockup, this causes the initial clamp to be quicker and lessen the duration of the slip. Less heat overall.

Put in a reverse wound front spring while you're in there from ati.

This is great advise, but please use something that is actually a lubricant after the wd. Wd is not a lubricant.

Ill take em, how much?

Looking forward to it! Have a good rest of your night.