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I didnt even notice that, lol...

I believe you are correct. Sounds like a good try.

Who is VDO?

Thanks, I know what a typical unit looks like. Not sure what gauge I have. It sounds like I need to find a new bulb for it. Well looks like it cannot be replaced. Have to get a new gauge.

That is a stainless braided line, with a copper wire inside. This is where the gauge gets its readings from, I guess....

I know that.....

Suggestions on how or where to hook up the copper wire for this to a 340 SB?

Interesting.......was the motor a 360 or were the heads 360?

Well then...that explains everything! Only if the 7 is really a two of the 0967 date code.

I'll post a better one up close when I get home. I thought date codes read the month and year. Does anyone recognize the rocker arms?

Yea, my thoughts exactly, that's why I was asking.

What is the date code used for then? Unfortunately I have no idea what valves are in the heads. Guess I'll find out when the day comes to rebuild. Is there any way to tell without taking them off?

That make no sense what so ever. Good try though......

I have a 340 in my 67 Barracuda that came out of a Duster (not sure exactly what year, I've been told 72 but maybe a 73) but that irrelevant because the heads on the motor are not the originals, the car came with an extra set. The heads bolted to the motor are both (360) J Heads, casting number...

Matt comes through again! Just wanted reassurance that I could plug into the unused terminal next to the original that broke off, looks "shared" to me.

I think I understand that.......Could I crimp on a new spade terminal on the wire and plug it into the empty post next to the broken one? They look to be connected together and it's not being used.

Maybe I'm missing what you are saying. The tab broke on the fuse box AND the wire. Crimping a connector on the wire is easy but what about the tab on the box?

So....the main feed tab broke off. Is there any way to fix this? Considering a modern blade style panel but have no clue how to convert.

If I sell these, what kind of price are they going for? I actually have this set, a plain set, and a finned set.

Thanks for that information. I didn't know the internals were different, although I had a sense they were. I'm leaving the car manual brakes. Only doing a front disk conversion, at a much later time. Just need the drum/drum brakes to stop the car, VERY IMPORTANT!

Well that does shed some light on my question. The MC's are cheap enough that when the time comes to do the conversion I will by the proper MC. Since I currently have drum/drum, I'll get the MC for that application. I was simply thinking ahead for the build. I sure would hate to have faulty...

My 67 Barracuda currently has drum brakes all around. I need a new master cylinder and I know the disk/drum MC is different than the drum/drum. From all I can tell is the disk/drum MC has a larger front res. My question is, will the disk/drum MC work for my current drum/drum brakes? I mean...

Thank all...

Does anyone know what this might be, what it is for, and where it might go? It has two lights, one is missing and the other has a blue cover. It has OEM part 3635635 and 46399. Mopar part search had no hits on either number.

I pulled the drums off the 67 Cuda over the weekend. Trying to figure out why the brakes don't work and go to the floor. The drums, shoes, and everything else in there look really good. There are no leaks in any of the lines, ect. Master cylinder is full of fluid. What are some of the other...

What all do you have connected to that batt lug on the relay meathead66?

Actually that template looks easier than I thought.

Thanks but I don't think that will pass tech.

Search doesn't come up with that user name.....