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That's what I learned on, but when it died I got the 220. Looks like I should have one of each.

I was worried about that. Before welding I used an ohmmeter to check the ground connection. The seat bolt was my first idea but it showed no continuity to the sheet metal. The spring hanger bolt was much better at .3 ohms.

My hinge seems good. So I’ll make sure I adjust it well afterwards. The nut must act like a heat sink, because I had no problem problems with my welder.

I've seen the Dynamic Renovation kit, but I'm trying to reduce downtime. It's cruise-in season! But I don't want to ignore the problem and have to worry about the door flying open while driving.

Noticed a crack surrounding my passenger side door striker. Driver side has already had a crack welded up by a previous owner. I know what the correct fix is, but I'm not prepared to cut out my pillar and weld in a new section at the moment. I'm curious what others have done, because this...

You can convert the 46re to manual valvebody.

I have some I just took off. Purchased them on ebay. I think it would cost almost as much to ship them to you as for you to buy a set on ebay. Just make sure whichever ones you buy don't advertise as fitting 5x4/5x100mm.

Happy to report that this setup ended being perfect for the 18x9 Bullitt wheels with 275/40r18 tires.

I built the axle last fall, and I'm thinking the axle shafts are of two different lengths. The pinion is definitely offset to the passenger side. I had to adjust the exhaust pipe on that side to clear the driveshaft.

That picture was taken right after she came down from the jackstands, so the front suspension hadn't settled.

Just took the maiden voyage on my 8.8 swap. Thought I would share here because not many have used the Ranger option. I chose this option as I did not want to attempt to cut down an Explorer rear, and the Ranger is the exact width to run the Mustang Bullitt wheels that I've been running. It cost...

Thank you for the offer. I've already order the plastic bushings, but I'll get back with you if they don't work out.

Thanks a bunch! I think the easiest fix is going to be those trailer bushings. Using those upper shock studs would be great if I had access to a parts car. Ebay shows over 50 bucks for a reproduction set!

In the middle of an axle swap. Using Speedway lower shock mount/leaf spring plate. The plate does not come with a shock stud. A coworker gave me some bolt in shock studs, but they appear to be 9/16 and the stock stud joints are 11/16. I can't seem to find larger bolt in stud, or bushings...

Mississippi has them. You have to first get a generic antique tag, which never expires and has no driving restrictions. You then have to mail your "model year" tag to the state capital for approval. First time around my plate were rejected because of rust. You end up paying the registration...

Ill send you a pm.

How much to ship to 38654?

Actually this may be a perfect example. As a youngin reading my Dad's Car Craft magazine, every feature with a Mopar invariably had a Purple Shaft cam. If Mopar Performance cams were commonly identified by lift, then I could see how it could get ingrained in the community as much as "four bolt...

To be honest, I don't remeber specifics. About 10 years ago I started my Stingray project and would spend hours a day on the Corvette Forums. If asked about the cam in my Chevy I would say it's a 218/230 @.050. I think duration at .050 is the best indication of the powerband and drivability...

When Mopar guys are talking about camshafts, they seem to refer to lift. For example, "I have a .590 cam in my....". In my past experience with Brand X, camshafts are referred to by their duration, either advertised or at .050. It seems duration is more relevant when discussing cams because...

I remember clocking the housing when I built the trans using the info in the factory service manual. I no longer remember what color/number of teeth are on the gear though. I'll check the cable routing, I might have repositioned it when I installed the cable for the shifter. I'll also try to...

When I first got my car I checked the speedo with a GPS app and found it to be pretty accurate. Shortly after replacing the engine and rebuilding the trans, the speedometer needle started jumping all around. I pulled the cable out of the back of the speedometer and squirted it with silicone...

A few of the clips have failed and I can’t seem to find replacements. Are they reproduced?

So I ordered a Melling high volume pump. Almost thinking it’s a counterfeit. Ordered on eBay, the casting on the cover looks tougher than those I’ve seen pictured, and there were visible machining marks inside. It was a PITA to install in the car but I got it. The reward is evidenced below...

I'm going to drop the pan and change the pump, if that doesn't help it then out she comes.

Garage rebuild. Bottle brush honed and new crank/rod bearings. Clearance on bearings (plasti-gauge) were in spec, but I only checked in one spot for every journal.

It was a pullout. It had not been apart, at least not recently.

Scary thing is it didn't show any pressure at idle with the fresh (cold) oil either.

"Ran when pulled" as I wast told. It as resting on a tire in the front yard of the sellers house. But the teardown showed no signs of overheated journals.

Did not remove any plugs from the block. Didn't see any signs of sludge buildup so didn't think it necessary.