Search results for query: *

Message sent

Alright, I'll give them a shot. Thank you for the replies.

They beefed them up quite a bit, the flange on the ones I purchased for a small block LA are 5/16" now tubes are 16ga I believe.

My concern is mostly the pic with the pencil in it, the metal between port and bolt hole isnt much bigger than the pencil lead and there's about a quarter inch of gasket overhang in the port hole on the header flange. I suppose I could build it up with weld to gasket match and give it a bit more...

I also have a set of the aluminum layered gaskets, would those be a better choice than using the copper ones?

I purchasesld these headers for a 318 build but the quality seems suspect at least. I wonder if they will seal (I have copper gaskets) or if I should try to reorder. In a few spots theres only about 1/16" of flange face between port and bolt holes, there is also a few spots of burnt out spots on...

That is awesome, and inspiring. Thanks!!

Lol 8-10 mpg seems about what I get loaded or not. I have the 4:10's as well with 727 with np205. I use it to carry heavy loads and to get from here to there once in awhile.

That was actually my original plan, I guess I'll have to take a close look and see if its a usable engine. Thanks again.

I'll look into it for sure, thank you.

Nice, thank you!! I also have a '75 360 sitting in a Winnebago, do you think those heads would be an improvement over the small port/valve '74 318? I plan on doing this home head porting and want the best bang for my bucks. If the 360 is still good that could be an option also but I don't mind...

Is there a reason you are going with the weiand as opposed to a edelbrock performer? I almost went with that also but then read that the edelbrock ports were closer to my 318 tiny intake ports. I think it was because it was easier for me to use the felpro 1243 gaskets that were 2.08x 1.05. I...

This is great, thanks man!!! ...but if I were you I would have....hahahahaha

Well, I cut a piece of rubber to act as a gasket between the springs and the contacts to hold them from touching the socket housing...that didn't do it. Then after looking everywhere in town that was open today I finally found a 1004 bulb and guess what???? You nailed it!!! Thank you very much...

That would be great but I just ordered one off if eBay last night. Thank you though, I absolutely appreciate that.

I figured it is because of the missing fiber gasket that holds the wires and spring from touching the shell and grounding it. See my pic a few posts up, there is no insulator in the socket. One of these but with 2 wire holes...

To the parts store I go!!!

Yes I know but it should still work properly on one of the filaments. I think it's missing the fiber gasket.

I think I see whats wrong, I started looking for a new one (ordered one from eBay) and I noticed the new ones I saw all had the fiber washer and mine does not have one. I figure it must have been brittle and broke when the previous owner had it. I will try a gasket and see if that works. Heres...

Yes, it is supposed to be.

I'll start with replacing the socket and see where that gets me, I'll probably order new door switches as well. Thank you!!

Do you think maybe its the wires in the kick plate or the actual socket? The socket does have a easy to reach disconnect plug for the wires. I will look at that, I did notice when I unplug the disconnect on the bulb socket and hook the 2 wires up one at a time...one does absolutely nothing and...

I wondered that but they work as they should when the socket isn't screwed in and grounded.... Door switches operate dome light as expected, as does the courtesy switch on light switch. I will order new ones as these have some rust.

1974 dodge. My dome light works perfectly if I remove the lens cover and unscrew the bulb assembly from the roof of the truck, but when it is screwed in (grounded) it stays on. The assembly has 2 wires, the door switches have 1 wire. The only bulb I have is a 2 filament bulb. Its not a huge deal...

I concur. I had a Plymouth super coupe with the 1"bars front and rear and it cornered like a dream.

That is my intention, then have the other 727 as a spare.

Could I just take the tail end off my power wagon transmission? Or is not as simple as that?

Another update: according to the vin numbers the Winnebago is a 1977. 360cid, 727 trans I presume torqueflite or loadflite I do not know. It does have a Dana 8 lug dually rear end and many other "spare" parts I can use. I cant find any info in a '77 360, I see '76 and '78. Regardless, it has...

I must say, that us a nice looking door yard.