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It was a great kit. Instructions were very straight forward I know the whole harness front to back now. I recommend getting the American autowire crimpers part number 510587. I tried a cheaper set on Amazon and they just didn’t work well, those packard 56 connectors are very heavy duty and the...

In the middle of converting to a t56. Looking to keep the stock center console but only have the automatic shifter top plate. Would like to trade or buy one. Preferably not at the $400 classic industries price point!

I know I’m a little late in this thread. I bought the silver sport clutch/brake pedal assembly as well. I have an automatic currently. The pedal and master is installed already. It’s very nice that the kit utilizes the factory hole, all you have to do is drill 3 holes for the master cylinder to...

Right they must not have been too standard of u-bolts! Not sure how else you would get a perfect u bolt indent in an axle tube like that. I’ve only installed 2 rear ends and have never seen that.

Jesus was that torqued way past spec

I’ve only come across that u bolt twice. I do like them a lot. The pair I had even had some knurling in it. I’d like to see the picture just ***** and giggles though

For sure. I’d like to grab used were possible/makes sense. I just didn’t have a good idea on pricing for a used a body rear end. It also cleared up my misconceptions on 741 so win win out of this thread!

Lol that goes without saving

Good to know about the shock plates. Thanks for the info

Man, I may have just been sold on getting the axle by me for 650 after reading this

Yea $650 will get me an a body housing and a 741 center section without shipping fees. Just to get a the housing on Drdiffs page is 775 plus whatever shipping is. I have time to shop around, my 7.25 rear end is still fine. I just want to get some ball park estimates and ideas. Everyone seems...

Do you think $650 for an a body 741 rear end is fair? no brakes on it but I plan to convert to disc anyway I suppose I could always source a 742 or 489 down the road

Exactly that’s why I wanted to steer away from a direct drop in from a b body rearend. Darts wheel wells don’t have nearly the same room. I’ll have to find an a body rear end or bite the bullet and cut up b,c, or e. Anyone try cutting and welding on their own? I see Mancini racing sells brand...

Oh I’m sure I won’t get away with a full rear end without dropping some decent coin. I just want to make it bulletproof so I won’t have to worry about it again. I have no plans on tracking this car at the moment but who knows 10 years down the road. Just future proofing

for the bigger pinion size. Isn’t the 741 pinion size the same thickness as a 7.25 rear end?

it’s a 1969 dart custom so I’m not sure where that puts me lol

There’s a guy local to me that’s asking $650 for an open diff 2.76 with a 741 center case. I hear these a body 8.75 are going for higher cost but $650 with a 741 seems high compared to what I’ve seen some people scoop them up for on here. I would be ditching the center case for a 742 or 489...

Thanks for the info, it’ll be nice to know what to expect if needed

Yea I don’t trust myself enough for that. I guess I’ll see what/if any options I have for a body housings first and go from there.

I haven’t looked much into cutting a wider one up. Is cutting down the housing somewhat diy? I have a decent welder and my welds I would say are ok.

Time to retire the 7.25 Looking for an 8.75 housing for a 1969 dart. Doesn’t need anything else just the bare housing. Possibly interested in other parts(Center housing 742 or 489 or axles) but planning to upgrade brakes while building up the rear end.

Do you mean to try different speeds with heat and defrost? None of the speeds work on heat and defrost and low/end/hi work on max a/c and a/c

I’m not sure which part number my switch is, do you have both switches? I’m assuming you do with both tables?

Sorry I forgot you mentioned it’s sending power when off. That doesn’t make any sense either, sounds like you may have gotten a bad switch? I didn’t find any electrical diagram for the vacuum control unit itself in the FSM

I don’t have any A/C components under the hood yet so I haven’t setup the wiring for the A/C side at the moment. That will be a project further down the road due to cost. I’m pretty sure the blend door slide shuts the temperature control slide off and on though. Mine clicks when I’m all the way...

I have a 1969 Dart with factory a/c and heat. I’m in the middle of installing an American autowire classic update wire harness which doesn’t take a/c into account so I made my own harness up from the oem circuit. Back before replacing the harness I kept blowing fuses on this circuit so I’m not...

With some modification to the evap box it looks like it can just squeeze. Checking the dash light and fuel fuse will require pulling the a/c and heater box

So 1/0 welding cable is plenty for a trunk mounted battery with a 100 amp one wire alternator? I'm pretty sure I wont come close to a 100 amp draw. I'm in the middle of a full rewiring with an American Autowire kit right now.

For anyone interested American Autowire’s classic update kit is not made for stock A/C in 1969 Darts. The A/C box needs quite a bit of material removed to fit the fuse block in and I believe the evaporator will get in the way of what needs to be removed

Has anyone used this kit with an a body that has A/C? I can’t see the fuse box fitting with the evaporator box right next to it. It definitely won’t go in with the a/c still on the firewall