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I’ll take the engine if sale falls through.

I’ll take it. I tried to PM you, but it popped up a error. I need to know the cost to ship to 77339 zip

It’s looking good. I used oven cleaner to take off the under coating. I just sprayed the yellow can left it over night and pressure washed it off. It only took about an hour of actual work. It will take the paint off with the undercoating. I guess the D Dart didn’t even have seam sealer. I don’t...

My 66 gt hard top is finley all welded up and ready for paint. When it is done it will be a DDart clone in WW1 white with no undercoating. This meant I had to do all the welds and repairs to the bottom of the car as if it was body work. The car has a Qa1 4 link on relocated perches. Uscar tool...

I understand. From one Dart fanatic to another you have a great looking Dart.

I’ll give you $250 for the upper control arms. I would like to give you more, but there are just too many other arms on the market for around $300.

Here is the blower setup I have for the A/C. Does that look correct?

I have all the A/C parts including the flange. I live in houston and as a result my convertible is useless for 6 months out of the year without A/c so I’m converting it. What year is your car?

It looks like you need the flange as well. I’ll give you that as well if needed

I think the photo converted

I’m looking for on that is ac equipped. I will swap if interested

Is the car gettin to operating temp? It might be a thermostat issue.

Depending on how far off you are on your spacing it would me much more cost effective to swap your 8 3/4 for a b body 8 3/4 housing. even if your a body rear emend has rear disk breaks you could sell that housing to cover the cost of the swap and maybe even make some money... just saying

How much for the radiator?

I’ll take both of them for $170.00 plus shipping.

If 68fsh doesn’t work out I’ll take them. Wheel well headers on a 66 tend to burn through spark plug wires fast.

reverse lenses with screws for $20

I’ll be sure to hold on to everything

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I ended up taking all of the guts out of a 6000 rpm auto meter tach and mounting it to the factory faceplate. I think this gives me the accurate reading and no fuss of a digital tach and the factory look. The only notable difference is the two black screws

Thanks for the information, now I just need to see how it was all wired up. That wiring wasn’t in the factory 1966 dart service manual.

I just received this 1966 Barracuda dash to install in my 1966 Dart and I only have guesses as to what it is. My guess is it’s for hazard lights. It was a recall in 1966, but I’ve never seen the recall installed. And thoughts or ideas!?! How should it be properly installed, less zip tie.

It’s from a 66 Barracuda

I sprayed the bottom of the car with wd40 while Im doing the rest of the body work. So far it’s working well. I wipe off the WD40 on the area that I’m working and respray when finished. So far no new rust.

I used 4 cans at $3.50, so it’s vary affordable.

You do want to be safe and use eye and skin protection.

Easy off yellow can.

It was easy. That was the original factory undercoating from a in touched dart

I’ve seen many discussions on how to remove undercoating from a car. I believe I found the best way. I used 3 cans of heavy duty oven cleaner and a pressure washer. This took me 30 minutes of spraying on the cleaner the evening before and one hour with a pressure washer cleaning it off. I put...