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I want to thank you all for your help with this problem, with your guidance I was able to get her charging right and my son and daughter drove her to school today….of course I followed, just in case :) Here’s what I learned over the past week or so…I had changed the coil after the original had...

I know I'm digging up an old thread here, doing my research late on a Saturday night. :) Just so you know, we still have a couple Simpson 260's and a newer 280 in our work center, they still have their place in modern Naval aviation....you just can't replace that needle!!

Awesome pictures, better than what I found in the Service Manual. I'll check the armature and contacts and verify resistance through the VR in the 3 operating positions. Thank You!!

Thanks!!

I will find that in my FSM and do some load testing @1250 RPM today...Thanks! I do have a question if you don't mind... -At ~2k RPM, Engine Temp 175F, and no load other than engine, I read ~15.6 across battery with no discernable voltage loss from Batt to VR and Batt to Alt. Does this mean VR...

Thank you, I won't ignore them.

Thank you, I totally agree. This was a temporary solution to test it out. When I cut the sealed style terminal off, I found that the smaller cable to the starter relay was badly corroded about 3 inches down the wire. The cable to the starter ain’t looking too red hot either. Finding or building...

After replacing the terminal on the battery, my son and I started the car up and took a number of readings. It looks to me like it’s fixed now!?! I think using the VR 106 may have been causing some problems, I should’ve done one thing at a time instead of applying multiple patches to the...

That sounds good... I took the reading inline between batt and feed direct from ammeter. The less than 1A statement is because I’m using a gauge from Tractor Supply that does not have a very accurate scale. Basically the needle bumps up a hair with the distributor disconnected....but instrument...

I finally got back to it today. I reinstalled the NAPA VR-32 style regulator grounded very well, and sense line (batt) through a relay. I found what blew the 30A fuse, the aftermarket stereo I installed shorted out internally due to the high input voltage it was subjected to and blew its 10...

I’ve read this a number of times and I think it’s a very good analogy, Thanks!!

I just want to say, you guys are a blessing to the community. I’ve read back through hundreds of posts here, and you are always on the spot to share your knowledge. Heck, you’ve even offered to drive to a persons house to help them out!! The world needs more people like you. Thanks!!

Understood, and Thanks!!

Right?! Must be cheap to mass produce ‘old school’ if you can sell ‘em for $20!

Thanks!!

Thanks, I replaced this one because it just stopped charging period. You guys have given me plenty of good ideas, I’m going to check the drop from batt to VR at when I get back to it...and monitor it at operating temperature. Also monitor/isolate current draw (something blew my 30A fuse)...

Also pulled the top on the NAPA replacement and all looks good electrically. They sure wound the coil better on the Echlin VR....

Great idea! I pulled the top on the original Echlin VR-32 and found no electrical damage, but it looks like it’s had some moisture accumulation and much corrosion on the connections. I would suspect the corrosion alone could’ve caused some problems.

Quick question for you guys (and gals) if you have a minute... I haven't gotten back to trouble-shooting this problem, the car is in time out right now while I sort out my thoughts. I replaced the original (dead) VR with a like VR from NAPA. That's when I started paying attention to the...

If you message me your address I'll send you my old wiper switch and bezels. -Corey

I haven't, but that would be prudent. I'll be sure to measure that when I get back to the grind with an ammeter inline with the load to the cabin! And, well crap! I noticed that my voltage gauge and ammeter would both increase under throttle, to the extreme once the car was warmer...even before...

Thanks for the links! I do love Fluke's meters (it's all we use in the Navy) but the $280 price tag on their DC clamp is a hard pill to swallow!!

It all worked out fine for my son, he drove the GMC instead! :)

Thanks for checking in Dana, I appreciate it! Well, I missed my 24 hr deadline But, I no longer believe I have a problem with my charging circuit/components, and I'm changing my focus to the load. Also, after reading the instruction sheet included with the VR, I found that it said that the VR...

Very good points mattax, I need to focus on the current loads. I'll run a separate fused line direct from the alternator to the feed at the fan relay. Thanks for the assistance!

My Fluke 115 has a 10A Max with an 11A fuse. FSM calls for 50A?

Great troubleshooting advice, thanks! I'm with you on the smoke....always a bad sign! I checked my FSM, Section 8. I can do the Field Circuit Resistance test, but I don't have an Ammeter capable of the Amp draw or loading for the other tests. I'll definitely do #3, externally wiring in the VR...

I'll double-triple check all my wiring to the VR, and it's mounting. I'm going to replace the wire and fusable link between the bypassed ammeter and starter solenoid and see if it gets me anywhere. Do you think that the smoke I've released from the VR thus far warrants installing the new one I...

Screw lug is a new direct wire to the field terminal on the alternator, the slip on terminal is now through a relay direct to the battery terminal because I saw a voltage drop from the battery terminal to the slip on connection of 1.5VDC. I'll double check that the coils on the bottom of the VR...

I pulled all the tape and loom, the field wire from the alternator to the VR is unmolested and un-shorted. Thanks for the tip...another place I hadn't physically looked! -Corey