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Hey every one I am about to put a hemi scoop on my hood for my 71 dart swinger, was just curious if any one has the dimensions of its placement so I can make sure I’m putting it on right. Or is this more of a just measure to get it centered kinda thing since hemi scoops weren’t stock on 71s...

Currently in the process of setting up Holley sniper on my 360. I am using the electronic conversion kit from Mancini racing with the Mopar ECU. Is that considered to be a capacitive discharge ignition system? I know MSD boxes are but I can’t really find what those stock ECU boxes are. Thanks...

Roger that! I’ll start running down these steps! Only part of step one I would say is false is here at Mountain Home AFB, ID we are at 3000ft elevation. Also I mistyped in my frustration and tiredness last night. It doesn’t sputter and die when I hit the gas. She revs up fine. It’s when I let...

Ok completed the above checklist in post 36. Re-ran the pcv to the front of the carb made sure it had the right hose. Have the car idling around the rpm numbers you suggested. I say around because I have been trying to fix another problem that has now come up. When I hit the gas at all it...

This is how it was set up

Roger that when I get the carb back on I’ll have the pcv connected to the front.

No that open port in the picture was normally capped. It was just open from disconnecting the vacuum gauge. I had the pcv valve running to the big port on the back of the carb normally used for the brake booster but since I didn’t have one I though the pcv just needed a vacuum port so I put it...

As far as the fuel pressure gauge that’s what I was meaning. So didn’t have much time to try and really wrench due to work crazy mess, but I was able to get the carb off at least and as soon as I drained it I flipped it over and you were 100% right on the transfer slots. Hopefully tomorrow I...

Man that is an awesome breakdown thank you so much! Will for sure follow it step by step! As far as extra air getting into the engine, I did spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carb and where the intake meets the heads and no change in anything so I don’t believe my extra air is from...

Ok I’m having none of this issues with the timing light. Swapping out distributors fixed my hot starting issue, now I just can’t seems to get it to idle correctly. I’ve attached a picture of my cam. I was told from a buddy that rebuild engines that it’s nothing exciting just slightly better than...

I’ve got it idling out of gear at about 1100 in gear 0800 and 14 degrees of timing. The noise comes back a little bit in gear but I also noticed my rear fuel bowl was low and wasn’t responsive to adjustments so possibly may be stuck. So I’m gonna take the carb off tomorrow and start there.

What do you mean by reverse polarity?

It’s no dieseling. It turns right off. Also not runnin MSD but a stock moor electronic ignition. Holley street avenger 570 and my idle screws are right around your suggestions. I will try your advice when I get home from work today! I really do appreciate all the help.

Thumping sound https://youtube.com/shorts/56DnEV3_1o8?feature=share

So was able to swap out the distributor today and now it will restart at will so that problem is fixed. However now I’m having idling issues. It was backfiring out the tail pipes/popping but i seemmed to have figured that out. Now its making a weird thump. I tried increasing timing and it went...

So test the brown wire with the circuit tester while it was not starting and it the light still lit up. So I’m assuming this means it’s a distributor issue with out a doubt. Will r&r the distributor and post the up date.

Also I have about 10 degree of timing in at idle

So right now the only tuning was done by me…and the idle mixture screws are all 1/2 way out. That’s what the vacuum gauge wanted to be in the green at idle. She definitely smells rich. So from what I am gathering your saying I would mess with the curb idle speed screw on the throttle? Also if...

No that is one of those butt connectors that has the heat shrink on it. So that is from my lighter when I shrunk it down around the connection.

J3 connection is the yellow wire at the end of the connector correct?

From what I can see the wire about the cuts are fine. So I should be able to get in there and solder them up right. Just curious if this is all from just the wire going bad and then been fixed poorly or if I need to be looking for a big problem some where in the circuit.

More discoveries

I found this at the connector from the steering column. If I am reading the wire diagram right I believe it is my wire for ign1. Any ideas what could cause the metal connector to seep into the plastic?

It’s not even the original orange ecu from the kit. I’m running the autozone box right now. The only reason I would say it shouldn’t be the coil is I just put a new one on yesterday. Moved it a little bit further away from the valve cover even. I’m just stumped as to why it’s only when the car...

True true

So I have a 71 Dodge Dart with a 360 and mopar electronic ignition conversion kit. After I installed the headers I have been having issues starting the car when it has any sort of temperature left in it from driving where I was going. I’ve swapped the coil and ballast resistor today and I’m...

I’m running a mopar electric ignition (4plug) and msd blaster 2 so should I upgrade it or just get another stock one?

Update for everyone. I believe it is a coil issue. Removed the plug wire from the coil and placed it on the cowl. There was no spark when cranking only once I let the key off from trying to start it did I get a spark.

So I’m still learning a lot about this stuff so I thought vapor lock and heat soak where the same thing…

Right now the car seems to like to cruise around at 190 and Idling in the heat here sometimes it creeps up to 200. Im thinking that I may need a new radiator, right now it still has the stock three row from 71. Also as far as timing last I checked it was set at 10 degrees I believe should I bump...