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I got a reply from Rhoads regarding lifter height, they are significantly higher than the current installed lifters which means in will need new push rods as well. So going with new lifters will push probably for another $500 with shipping and import charges. I will keep playing around for now...

Also makes me think about the current lifters i have installed. I don't know what type i have at the moment and don't know what effect my engines relative high oil pressure has on the lifters. Do in a normal situation hydraulic lifters stay at the same position at idle and "lowest" oil pressure...

I have adjustable roller rockers so i can make the adjustments. Although, I am leaning more towards the variable lifters to be honest. They really provide the reduced duration where the engine needs it, and restore to full lift right after the TC flash rpm, as AJ mentioned to me. That should...

Not sure if that is going to take enough duration and lift out of this cam..

Now i have .040" pre-load on the hydr lifter. Is it possible to change to solids on a hydraulic cam? What/how does that benefit? Does that also reduce duration?

Oh man, that must have been a real pain, bringing that block around shops to get the screw up's fixed. And then even denying they did not do that.... I guess a 440 will push a bit more air back to the intake compared to a 367, so being a BB it will worsen the situation compared to a SB. If i go...

So, as this cam has .008" @ 68* After BDC lift, the valve will close even later, it is more than likely the intake valve is fully closed in the 75* area. Yes, i agree that the when the cam was advance 14* the vacuum should have been higher as a lot less air is being pushed back in the intake...

This TC does seem a stranger though. It does flash relatively high but seems a tight model, that it works does not mean it is the right one behind this engine though. Anyway when time comes i will replace it with something new and known. So, guess that the question remains..why the manifold...

What i ment was, that when at idle in Neutral, i just hit the throttle a bit to rev it up to 1000-1200 rpm, but not maintaining that rpm but just let it drop again back to idle. At that time the revs jump, the tires rotate a little and when the rpm comes down the tires come to a stand still...

Giving the engine a little rev to 1000-1200 makes the tires rotate a bit but after stop turning again and just creep a little every now and then. I set the idle rpm to 800 rpm, which still keeps the tires stationairy. I also seems temperature sensitive as well, if the car has been off for 10...

Ok, so i checked what engine and transmission do as you mentioned. I had screwed around a bit before with the choke and had played with the idle adjustment, so at the first test it run around 900rpm idle and at that time the wheels did start to spin in Neutral. The speedo cable is broken but my...

Well explained how that works. As you said it is a very nice invention and actually really simple if you look at the small amount of parts, but to understand completely how they work is a different ball game with all these variables. I did not get to it today as i had other things to attend...

Ok, i did some research on that numbers. The 47339E12 did not show up anything related to any converter brands. The CH RG 130 seems a part number of the ring gear only, which seems to be manufactured by Sonnax Performance Converters. (the 130 stands for the 130 teeth) This ring gear is being...

Thx AJ, So the only difference between Park and Neutral are that in Park there is a pressure bleed off and the ratchet lock is engaged. I would say when the TC sprag is not working (either stuck or able to rotate in both directions) that this would give issues all the time? From the video, that...

Is there still engine torque absorption from the transmission while in neutral? So what does that test actually proof? Does this show the "load" the convertor creates on the engine? Where as this "load" with a high stall convertor should be very low, right? And i guess that is what might drag...

For example, this one really looks like what i have, color and shape. B&M 10417 B&M Tork Master 2400 Torque Converter, 1967-81 Chrysler TF727 What would this do behind a big block with 425-450hp? (guess in hp)

Nope, after some scientific investigation i found the part number engraved in the camshaft flange, behind the sprocket. See picture. I had checked the cam events of intake and exhaust valve: There is a bit of deviation in the readings compared to the cam specs, forgive me my unexperienced way...

I had a re-read some history, i had opened a topic before on FBBO on setting up my Holley 770 Street avenger where i found some details and settings of that time. So below readings is what i had then, but at the time the camshaft was advanced 14*! crank degrees by having the dots to be off 1...

V-can still not hooked up yet. I think the mixture is very rich. It needs a lot of cranking as well to start to hear some cylinders start firing, i really need to push the throttle quite a bit to get it to stay running. (first attempt smoked my garage, for sure all spiders are dead now) After...

Let's hope this is leasons for life!! :D I also cannot seem to get the choke set right, the high idle is too low and it stalls. Had given the adjustments screw around 3-4 more turns in total but it does not bring up the idle speed. How far the primaries should be open when on the choke cam...

Update: I've set the initial to 12* and fiddle about with the idle screw and mixture screws. It took a little adjustment on the idle screw to open the blades a little more and managed to close in the idle mixture screw a 1/4 turn. (just over 3/4 turn) I had set it at 800 rpm, it pulls 6"Hg...

I'll see if i can get the car out tomorrow morning and check the intake manifold for leaks. I will also disconnect and plug the vacuum booster again just to rule out all vacuum ports. If i can't find anything i will go ahead and try some more idle adjustment by setting it to 12* initial advance...

Cool, we are all on the same page now...and drinking beer! :D I will surely try the trick with a piece of hose and check for leaks on the intake manifold. Yes, i am running 1.6 ratio roller rockers. What i meant was to increase throttle by opening them up, and after i will likely have to...

From what i understand is that they work by fluid velocity that needs to go through an adjustable orifice. The lifters leak off in a controlled manner, at low rpm the pressure that the pushrod applies to the lifter piston allows the oil to leak out until a certain extend. When the rpms go up...

I can try and ramp up the idle to 900, just by turning the initial advance to 18*-ish. First i will check again on the intake to see for leaks, after i can play around with some settings and see what it does. If a am still not happy i will consider the variable lifters to install, so from what i...

The first time i tested the vacuum on the car i could not get any higher vacuum than 7", after i had the intake and valley cover removed for an inspection/clean up and partial painting and reinstalled everything with new gaskets and never seen any better vacuum than 7" after that...

I was using a generic PCV valve, which due to the low vacuum is in WOT mode, allowing full flow instead of the reduced flow at high vacuum. Therefore i have ordered the M/E Wagner adjustable PCV valve to set it up so i only allows a very small flow during idle.

Yes, i did see your comments but i did not want to hyjack the thread. Although most others seem very sceptical about them, but you are using them and with others seems more "hear and say". How do you experience the noise caused by them, and what oil viscosity and pressure do you have? And what...

TC stall speed is around 3000, i think it is a B&M but this engine was rebuild several years ago by a PO. So i have not all details of it, it's 11" and darkblue....mystery TC, lol. AFR on the gauge i am questioning more and more, because the plugs don't look that rich really. For sure at idle...