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Hello Woody, if you still have the bell housing for sale ill take it... I need one for my circle track car and I will be further modifying it, so this one will be perfect... Im in Standish Michigan, 48658-9402 for the shipping costs... Thanks....Al

Stock manifolds on my 78 were both center dumps, same manifold left and right ... Some class A motor homes have the same manifolds... I do have a pair of truck, center dump manifolds left if ya need em... Tweekin the frame rail was no big deal... ya could always bend it back...My truck was rare...

Well I know free is a whole lot cheaper than any aftermarket head ....LOL I just traded my machinist about 10 350 chevy core engines for all my head work and the new stainless valves, guilds, springs, locks, seals and retainers... But all i'm after is a warmed up 340 to drive on the street for...

When I did my J-heads for my race car 2.02/1.60... Go with a chevy speck valve +.100 over, same length as a stock Chrysler valve with the bronze guild... Parts are cheaper, smaller stem, 11/32 vs 3/8 = more flow, less weight, chevy speck locks and retainers and the springs are the same dia...

I used the pitman arm for a 71 C-body on my B-body. On my A-body I just used a steering quicken-er.... If you are running headers your drag link will interfere with the headers...With stock manifolds it would work...

You will have to mock them up and see... On the pass side I had to add about 1/2 inch of clearance by bending the upper flange on the frame... Did it with the engine in the truck ..

On my 78 D-150 440 powered truck I installed a set of the B-body 383/440 magnum manifolds... These are said to not fit, I found only 3 mods and they fit fine... Left side only needed a slight mod to the kick down linkage and a little massaging of the firewall... Right side I had to heat and bend...

Thats a miss-print, sounds like it should be in a GM manual, GM's are done that way. Tac welding it in wont hurt nothing. On the circle track cars I work on, an GM that hasn't converted to a screw in BJ have to be tack welded in to stay in place, they will come out....LOL Here is a way to fix...

I wish I had some extra money right now as I would buy a extra 1 of these cams... I have 1 in my circle track street stock car and they rock-n-roll... 360 +.030, 11 to 1, 2.02 1.60 J heads, headers X pipe 2 1/2 duals out the door no mufflers, Mopar performance dual plain intake, 4412 holly, we...

I am following Dr Terry Wahls also, she is on facebook also and if you, like, her page you will get all of her news feeds.... better eating for better health.....

Thanks Dusted 72, I just bought a LD340 intake off craigslist and it didn't have the T-housing. I like em so much I bought 2, I know I will use the extra 1 sooner or later....

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On my 78 Magnum enduro, circle track car I cut out most of the inner bumper structure leaving only the bumper mount area like 73abodee suggested. It does weaken the bumper significantly, I folded up several while racing... For the shock part I cut off the mounts and used 2 1/2" exhaust pipe to...

On my buddys Aspen we used the urethane bushings for the transverse T-bars. They really stiffened up the front end over the stock rubber ones. We race on asphalt with a stock sway bar. If your track gets dry-slick you may want to try and run a sway bar. Howe makes adjustable screw in ball...

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If you can get a DSL hookup thru your phone company. Cheep, I pay 14.95/mo, and way faster...

I'll get in line if your previous offer falls through...

Ignition relay has a bad connection or is bad. Car should start on 12 volts then run on about 8 volts. I don't know why he would wire in 2 ballasts the way he did.

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I would be interested in the chrome outer covers, I don't need the bulb housing.

Dang, always a day late or a dollar short....

I'm interested in the chrome covers. Shipping to Standish, Mi. 48658 thanks

If your pending sale falls through I'm getting in line.....

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I think you may find it to be cheeper to buy a old outdated super late model. Would give ya all your suspension pieces plus a quick change rear end. How cool would it be to see a street car running polished aluminum wide 5 wheels.... That was my plan anyway, now if I just had enough extra money...

To see any real gain in rear weight percent you have to move the engine at least 5-6 inch's. You have to get the engine behind the upper ball joint center line to see any real gains. 1-2 inch's is only maybe worth a 1/4 to 1/2 percent. Way more work than whats its worth.